Stan Wilson Advisor III - a making of thread

[ArsMachina]

PART XXII

Starting to filework the liners, I will go all the way around the liners on this knife.

I like to make the filework on the liners match up to that on the spine, this is rather time consuming but I like the results.

Now the the back is done I will continue around the liners. I few marks with a sharpie keeps on pattern.

Liners are done.

Now that the liners have been fileworked I will completely assemble the knife and hand sand the perimeter of the knife removing any burrs from filing.

Here is how the filework came out.

It's getting close, I'm down to about the last 10 steps.

 

[Marcel54]

I don't know why a custom/handmade knife should cost that much. It is easy and not timeconsuming at all

But seriously, it's really interesting to see all the steps that are involved to make a knife like this:thumbup:

Marcel

 

[ArsMachina]

I was not sure which etching I would prefer for the Dragonskin Damascus.
Standard grey or the colored etching Bertie is often using for his steel.
I thought the colored etching would be too shiny and colorful for this style of knife and also might not match the dark mammoth tooth too good.

So Stan made a test and the result is really phantastic:

I cannot imagine a better matching of the damascus and the scales, so I am really very pleased.

I knew that this knife would become very extraordinary and will for sure be the highlight in my collection.
But what I do see so far really exceeds my expectations even I saw many pictures of Stan's knifes before and knew which materials would be used for mine.
What Stan makes out of these materials with just his hands and the use of some conventional machines is really a true piece of art.

And the communication with Stan during the build process is very pleasant.
He is very patient even I do have many questions and suggestions
Whenever possible he shows me the possible options and then we decide together which way to go.

I hardly can stop looking at the pictures Stan in mailing me and I cannot await the moment when I hold this knife in my hands

Jochen

 

[Lorien]

This is one of the best threads EVER!
Thank you guys so much for providing such amazing detail.
I seriously had no idea how complicated something like this is. Incredible.

 

[firebolt]

i was just looking at some items on Bladeforum,
was al ready a little late,

but i could not stop looking,
very nice thread, and a very nice WIP
and one stunning knive,
my best custom ever list has a new contender

regards, Martin

 

[ArsMachina]

PART XXIII

Time to fit the gold for the signature plate.

I filed one end of the gold strip to match the dovetail angle, marked the length and clamped in a filing jig to make it easier to hold.
I cut it off with a jewelers saw.

File the cut end to fit.

The gold plate now fits into the dovetail in the spine.

It is wider than the spine so I will scribe a line with an exacto blade.

Clamp it into a filing jig and file down to the line.

I'll flip it around and do the other side the same way. The signature plate is now fitted.

Now I will set the gold stop pin. I sanded the inside of the spine to the final finish and set it in a vise.

To be continued ...

 

[ArsMachina]

PART XXIV

Hammer in a piece of gold wire.

I cut the wire off longer than needed and give it a few more taps with the hammer to make sure it is set well into the spine.

First test fit, the point is well out of the frame, the gold will get filed down until the point drops into the frame.

Getting closer.

This is where I want it, the point is in and the blade edge is not touching the spine.

I sanded and gave a quick polish to the signature plate, here it is in the pantograph.

Signed and polished signature plate.

To be continued ...

 

[Frank Fischer]

Okay, is it just me or should Stan publish a book? He's so willing to share all of his knowledge, I asked him why? His response, "that's what we do."

 

[pedervisti]

So much detail! man i really love this WIP, now i can really understand how
much work goes into these folders!

 

[taramonas]

Great, great thread.
I newer saw such a detailed story of craftsmanship.
Concrats to Stan for his super clean work and thanks to Jochen
to show it.

Axel
http://www.taramonas.de

 

[RogerP]

Really interesting stuff. :thumbup:


Roger

 

[roundel]

This thread makes me appreciate my Advisor even more. Great stuff Stan!

 

[ArsMachina]

PART XXV

I will now sand the flats of the blade. One of the advantages of having stone work bench is that is flat.
I will start with a sheet of 800 grit paper clamped to the bench.

800 grit, looks pretty rough up close.

1200 grit looks a little better.

2000 grit.

The parts to be colored are fixture so they can be hung in the soup.

The soup is heated and the parts are submerged, check the color, it's not there yet.

back in the soup.

This is not what we wanted.

To be continued ...

 

[ArsMachina]

PART XXVI

I took the temperature up higher and totally blew the colors. Strip the parts and start over.

Here was the second try, not what the customer wanted. Strip it and try again.

3rd try is a charm.

Now that the Damascus has been blued I will drill the detent ball. I will drill through the liner and into the blade with a 1mm carbide drill.
A 1/6" ball will drop into a 1mm hole .008, I use .010 washers and will have the ball set .009 above the liner.

Now I can final sand the liners. I will super glue them to a metal plate.

I can then put the plate on a mag chuck mounted on the bench. It is at a comfortable height to work at and held securely.

Sanded to 800 grit.

I will leave them on the plate and jewel them.

To be continued ...

 

[ArsMachina]

PART XXVII

The 3rd liner is used to dress the cratex, when it is not making a nice mark I run it down onto the lock portion.
It dressed the face nicely.

After both have been jeweled a sharp smack with a hammer on the back of the plate.

and the liners pop right off. An acetone bath dissolves the super glue

A final sanding of the edges with some polishing paper and I'm ready to anodize.
I have my anodizer set up with a volt meter.

The liners have been completely de-greased, given a quick dip in multi-etch, rinsed and are ready to color.

Turn up the voltage.

It's getting close to finished.

To be continued ...

 

[ddd]

Unbelievable detailed display!
A one-of-a-kind photographic work in progress Thread.

With a little "cleaning-up" and here-and-there "color correcting",
I think that you guys have great material for a beautiful article
in BLADE Magazine!!!

All the best,
David Darom (ddd)

 

[peterinct]

WOW...i'm envious of the lucky owner of that masterpiece!

Peter

 

[ArsMachina]

PART XXVIII

Time to set the detent ball. I will use a simple little tool that I made.
I is a hardened piece of steel with a series of holes milled in with a 1/16" ball end mill.
Each hole is .002 deeper. I want the ball to stick out of the liner .009. Lay the ball into the proper hole.

Place the hole in the liner over the ball.

I will use a brass punch.

Place the punch over the hole in the liner and give it a smack with a hammer.

Since the ball is larger in diameter than the liners are thick the ball will stick out the back of the liner a bit.
You can see it left a dimple in the punch.

I grind off the back of the ball with a cutoff wheel in the dremel.

I will measure the height of the ball. First the ball and the liner.

Then just the liner and determine the difference. Just what I wanted .009

To be continued ...

 

[ArsMachina]

PART XXIX

The detent ball is set

Now I need to do something about these screws, they look a little rough.

I will spin them in the mini lathe, chuck up a small threaded barrel and screw in the first screw.

800 grit, 1500 grit paper and a block of wood with leather glued onto 2 sides will make quick work of this.

Run the lathe at full speed and using the block hit the screw head first with 800 and then 1500 grit paper.

I'll flip the block over and press just the leather against the spinning screw head to polish it.
It polishes it nicely and leaves no messy compound in the drive sockets.

One down, 15 to go.

Now they look a little better, but not quite there yet.

To be continued ...

 

[ArsMachina]

PART XXX

Next is thoroughly clean them. and give them a quick acid bath. The acid bath removes the passive oxide that develops on the stainless.

Next a plating bath in in this. This will allow the gold to adhere well and not rub off easily.

Directly from the acid into the activator solution.

The nickel pre-plate is done.

Now into the gold plating solution.

Now they look better, This may be a little overkill as none of these screws will be seen but,,,,,,

Not much left now, Sharpen the blade and final assembly.

To be continued ...