Strider SmF CC Black Oxide 3/4 Grind in CPM 3V

eloreno said:
Is Strider switching to 3V in general or are these limited?
I just snagged a SMF DGG in 3V off the exchange thanks to your video.
Thanks Ankerson!





I also contacted Mr. Demko and had him switch my AD10 to ELMAX. :D:D
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Not sure if they are or not, only Strider knows that. :)

Ah Sounds good. :D
 
Pretty sure these are a limited run and that Strider will be sticking with S30V for the bulk of its knives.
 
Ankerson,

I've been really interested in this particular version since it was released. Can you tell if the hollow grind is thinner then the grind on the original 3/4 grind striders? Or have all the 3/4 grinds come with a hollow grind?
 
shady A.M. said:
Ankerson,

I've been really interested in this particular version since it was released. Can you tell if the hollow grind is thinner then the grind on the original 3/4 grind striders? Or have all the 3/4 grinds come with a hollow grind?
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It's thinner. :)
 
Thanks for the quick response brother! Hopefully, they'll do a few SnGs in 3V or S110V... I've always been a fan of the SnG design but the obtuse angle of the edge and thickness of the blade has always prevented me from owning one for very long. It's great to hear that they're starting to grind their blades a little bit thinner.
 
S110V SnGs came and went. Whether they'll be more...or when...who knows. :D

shady A.M. said:
Thanks for the quick response brother! Hopefully, they'll do a few SnGs in 3V or S110V... I've always been a fan of the SnG design but the obtuse angle of the edge and thickness of the blade has always prevented me from owning one for very long. It's great to hear that they're starting to grind their blades a little bit thinner.
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Ankerson said:
When the blade gets thicker towards the tip the bevel will widen because there is just more metal to remove when keeping the same angle.

There is no way around that unless you increase the angle towards the tip like they do when they sharpen them at the factory.
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The same happened to mine using the WE system. Bevel widened at the tip but knife is still razor sharp. If I narrow the angle will it have a more narrow bevel to look like factory grind?
 
PAZach said:
The same happened to mine using the WE system. Bevel widened at the tip but knife is still razor sharp. If I narrow the angle will it have a more narrow bevel to look like factory grind?
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Yeah, you would have to change the angle by around 5 degrees or so starting were the blade starts to get thicker, not worth the effort though if you want to cut stuff with it.
 
PAZach said:
The same happened to mine using the WE system. Bevel widened at the tip but knife is still razor sharp. If I narrow the angle will it have a more narrow bevel to look like factory grind?
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Here's what Clay Allison wrote about wider bevels towards the tip. Just rearranged somewhat for easier reading.

clayallison said:
This issue comes up a lot and gives people fits but it's very easy to solve. On a practical level, there are a couple of reasons why you might get a larger or smaller bevel along the curve of the blade.


  1. As the stone rotates on the guide rod along the curve, it is constantly entering a new plane of contact. Depending on the curvature of the blade and the distance of the tip of the knife from the clamp, the change in bevel angle may cause the bevel to become wider or smaller. The effect is proportionate to the radius of the belly of the blade.

    The easiest way to find the 'sweet spot' for a given knife is to mount the knife with the blade approximately centered in the clamp and then color in the entire bevel with a Sharpie marker. After setting the angle, lightly swipe one of the fine stones down the length of the blade to see where the marker is removed. If the stone is removing the marker from the edge along the straight portion but then dipping down into the shoulder toward the tip, you know you need to reposition the knife with the tip closer to the clamp.

    If the opposite happens - that the stone removes the marker at the shoulder of the bevel along the straight portion and then moves to the edge along the curve, then you need to reposition the knife with the tip further from the clamp. Once you find the sweet spot, measure your knife's position using the alignment guide and record the settings on the chart for future touch-ups.


  2. The second reason you might experience a wider bevel toward the tip of the knife is due to the way the knife is ground. As the belly of the blade curves toward the spine of the knife, the edge is often cut from thicker stock resulting in a wider bevel. An 1/8" thick blade with a 22° per side angle will have much smaller bevels than a 1/4" blade with the same 22° angles. On knives where the tip is inline with the spine and where there is not a distal taper, the effect is more pronounced. A wider bevel in this circumstance is a purely cosmetic concern since the angle is constant.

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After following this thread and seeing the MonkeyEdge video - I had to get me some 3V.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPgSOQY4CDk

Nothing sissy about this stuff.

I have a Strider DB and DB-L (fixed blade) coming with .250 thick (1/4") stock.

The test that MonkeyEdge did was with the thinner .190 stock.

Damn. 2011 has been a very expensive year so far. I'm going to go live in a cave for a while so my piggy bank can catch it's breath.
 
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