Survival Knives--Which would you carry?

Blues we are of the same mind. My main go to chopper is an H.I. M-43 Kukri. That knife literaly enabled me to thrive on a several year extended stay in the woods. It even made it possible to build two different trappers cabins and oodles of other shelters. drawknifing etc was a dream with it.
 
Gotta go with the BK-2. It's a solid knife and I cannot stand serrations so this one was easy.
 
RandomAyes said:
IMO Gerber's "shock-absorbing pommel" code phrase really means "cheaper and easier to manufacture"

The Bear Grylls knife was reviewed here on BF. When used to hammer, the knife... um... "self-disassembled" a.k.a. "broke"

Do not hammer with a knife unless it has a full length & full width tang.
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That "IMO" can't be based on personal experience, and the notion regarding tangs is silly. I have no experience with anything "BG", but my Cattaraugus 225Q (similar to a KaBar) has a hammer-pommel, is not "full width" tang, and is incredibly well suited to the task, as is the LMF II and its pommel design is in no way "cheaper and easier to manufacture" - just the opposite. I think the design could be improved, but it serves its purpose very well.

Despite similarities in appearance, the BG is neither the LMFII nor the Prodigy, nor is it manufactured in the same country.
 
chiral.grolim said:
They are all full tang.


Seems? Why so?


This is the question that gets to the meat of the matter. The Gerber LMF II is a knife designed for a very specific purpose - military - and it is loaded with bells&whistles catering there-unto (e.g. special handle, electronic isolation, hammer/crusher-pommel cushioning, tight- fitting sheath for use as a handle when hammering/crushing - a feature I've never found on another knife).
I bought one (early 12C27 version) and am very pleased with its performance - takes a great edge, easy to maintain, best serrations on any knife I've ever used (including bread-knives), is robust as a pry-bar/hammer/shovel/etc., can chop alright for its size, baton, crush ice and rubble, comfortable in hand, it's inexpensive... the list of pros goes on and on.... BUT

BUT it isn't as good at general woodcraft tasks as other, lighter knives. I am not a soldier, i don't need the bells&whistles (like that massive pommel) that increase it's weight, I do more carving/slicing than prying open metal crates or cutting hot-wires or the hull of an aircraft/vehicle.

SO, in a non-military survival situation, from that list, i think I'd feel the same about either the Prodigy or the BK2 - the BK2 is theoretically tougher but also 2x the weight of the Prodigy, which I think sufficiently tough for most such survival purposes. But I own neither one to really compare them...
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This is a picture of an LMF's tang
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5024117&postcount=17
Definitely looks like a hidden tang to me...

Also the blade thickness of the LMF and Prodigy is 3/16. Not that it's a weak knife but I fail to see how a blade with 1/16'' less spine thickness is stronger in any way than the BK2's 1/4'' :confused:
 
chiral.grolim said:
They are all full tang.
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no they are absolutely not, I've seen pictures of the LMFII, not only is it a hidden/concealed tang, but id doesn't even go the Length of the handle.


Full tang doesn't just mean it goes all the way through the handle, otherwise craptastic thin stick tangs would be called "full tang"

edit: oh hey the guy above me covered it, and even with the picture i was thinking of lol.
 
wildmike said:
Blues we are of the same mind. My main go to chopper is an H.I. M-43 Kukri. That knife literaly enabled me to thrive on a several year extended stay in the woods. It even made it possible to build two different trappers cabins and oodles of other shelters. drawknifing etc was a dream with it.
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:thumbup: :D

That's cool Mike. So as not to go off-topic, any threads around here about your several year extended stay in the woods? Sounds like it would be very informative and interesting reading.

And oh yeah, draw blading is definitely a breeze with the kukri!

Blues
 
BluesStringer said:
That said, I would never limit myself to such a choice. All of my bug-out packs have at least two knives in them, one a chopper and the other a fixed blade smaller one. My main pack that I keep at home has the Fallkniven F1 for the small blade, and a CS Gurkha Kukri for the chopper. I know, I know, folks around here hate CS's advertising, but that kukri is one helluva chopper, and to my way of thinking, the best way to survive in the field is to limit to the greatest extent possible how many calories are burned performing the tasks that it takes to survive. The most efficient chopper I've found, including camp-axes, is the kukri shape, and the CS version balances size, weight and length for the purposes I need it for as well as anything else I've tested for chopping.

My "get-home" packs that I have in mine and my wife's vehicles have a Kershaw Outcast and BK9 for the chopper respectively, and BK2s for the smaller blades in both. I'm seriously considering removing the choppers from those bags, as they really are just for getting home, and the added weight, especially for my wife, is more than needed for, at the most, being outdoors for one or two nights. Haven't decided on that yet, but....

See, the thing is elitebrothers8, there simply is no single "perfect" survival knife. These kinds of threads are fun and interesting for gauging the group's consensus (or lack thereof) on favorite brands, steels etc., but they're not really helpful in preparing for real life survival situations because you're putting unrealistic and arbitrary limitations on choices. That's something one doesn't have to do if they prepare and train far in advance and efficiently for survival in as many scenarios as you can envision for yourself in the area(s) you live.

That said, I'm glad to see that so many knowledgeable folks agree with me that Becker makes some damned fine survival tools! :thumbup:

Blues
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Blues, Thanks for the such in-depth response. You definitely have some valid points. It is true there isn't a "perfect survival knife", especially because everyone has different opinions on what suits them the best.
 
TxSxB said:
This is a picture of an LMF's tang
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5024117&postcount=17
Definitely looks like a hidden tang to me...

Also the blade thickness of the LMF and Prodigy is 3/16. Not that it's a weak knife but I fail to see how a blade with 1/16'' less spine thickness is stronger in any way than the BK2's 1/4'' :confused:
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jDrex said:
no they are absolutely not, I've seen pictures of the LMFII, not only is it a hidden/concealed tang, but id doesn't even go the Length of the handle.

Full tang doesn't just mean it goes all the way through the handle, otherwise craptastic thin stick tangs would be called "full tang".
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There seems to be some confusion here. By "full tang" you mean that the knife has handle slabs only and that the width of the steel (in each direction) is maintained from ricasso to pommel? What about skeletonized handles - is that still "full tang"?
Kabar, Cattaraugus, Case, Buck, BRKT, Randall, Fallkniven, and others (no mention of custom-makers yet) ALL employ what you call "hidden" tang, many also utilize tapered tangs (e.g. Loveless) and "stick" tangs as are seen on HI khukuri's as well as most every well-made sword you may ever come across. Japanese katanas have shorter tangs, like most Mora knives - not "full" length.

"Full tang" means that the metal composing the blade continues through the full length of the handle - i.e. no welded joints. A "half tang" extends half the length, etc. There is no specification for the width of the metal within the handle, only that it is all one piece extending up into the blade. When the tang extends BEYOND the handle into the pommel, that is called "extended" tang, as is seen on the Fallkniven A1, and even my Catt225Q, etc.

The LMFII tang extends the entire length of the handle, as can be seen in Noss' destruction picture... well, maybe it's 1/8" short of "full", but the rest is all pommel - not meant to be held, not part of the handle.

Finally, 1/4" is not automatically stronger/tougher than 3/16" :rolleyes:
Pit your 1/4" 1095 BK2 against 3/16" SR-101. The superior blade is the one which performs the same (or better) at selected tasks and at the necessary level of toughness/durability while being lighter. It is Bk&T's 1095 heat treatment which will determine if the BK2 is "stronger" than the Gerbers, NOT the thickness of the blades. Can 12C27 not be HT'd to the same "strength" as 1095?
 
Ive decided that I am going to go with the Becker Bk2. I have a feeling that there is going to be no regrets. Now as soon as I find a credible and reliable place to buy it, it will be on its way!
 
Tomars is both credible and reliable. Grats on the decision but you realize we will demand pictures - right? :D


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Beckerhead #42
 
GingivitisKahn said:
Tomars is both credible and reliable. Grats on the decision but you realize we will demand pictures - right? :D


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Beckerhead #42
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Haha! Yes! I will be posting pictures as soon as I receive it. But now that you reminded me, I have to get a memory card for my camera. :thumbdn:
 
Bummer. The LMF box is long gone...not sure I kept it for very long. Mine was made in Oregon but I have had a devil of a time getting it sharp to suit me. I finally convexed the fine edge portion and keep it in the trunk.

My ESEE-5 and ESEE-4s are my go to knives in a survival context...should I find myself in one.
 
elitebrothers8 said:
I officially have ordered the Becker Bk2 and it should be arriving next week. Thanks for everyones help!:)
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Congrats. You won't regret it. Great knife.

If you haven't already, stop on by the Becker Forum. We'll help you
tune it up ;)

edit: I see you've already been there (LOL)
 
Cobra281 said:
Congrats. You won't regret it. Great knife.

If you haven't already, stop on by the Becker Forum. We'll help you
tune it up ;)

edit: I see you've already been there (LOL)
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Cobra, Thanks for the advice. And yes I've already spent quite some time in that forum. I have only had my account for less than 24 hours and already can almost be a Beckerhead :D However, I dont want to be lame and post random posts just so I can make the count. Everyone on these forums have been a great deal of help! Thank you once again!
 
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