Survival knives!

Actually Buck HAS had it right all these years. Hollow grinds are fine for skinning but flat and convex grinds are better -smoother cut with less likelyhood of damaging either the flesh or the skin.The point is that most Bucks were designed as all around outdoors/hunting knives, that DO allow you to cut wood without binding as well as skinning. Anyone reading this thread ever actually try to cut wood with a flat ground blade? It's absolutely the heaviest amount of friction. That's why Scandis are designed the way the are, the main (usually only) bevel does the actual cutting via a chiseling action and the uppper flat just furnishes dimensional stability and 'separates' the two wood surfaces for the follow through. Think of a Hollow ground blade as a reverse Scandi grind. It's not as effective as a scandi at bushcraft but it still works as it provides 'clearance' for the separated wood material after the cut has been initiated.
An ideal Survival blade geometry allows for a compromise between:
- Defense via a stabbing action
- Skinning
- Bushcraft ( cutting wood both dry and green)
- Cutting rope
- Leverage
- Digging
- Chopping Ice/Snow.


PC356 said:
I was under the impression that hollow grinds were a great geometry for skinning game. I guess Buck and Dozier have been wrong all these years :rolleyes:
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Yes! I agree with this one!go for the fears survival knife
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=FOSFSK425
macgregor22 said:
go for the fears survival knife
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=FOSFSK425
or the gerber LMF
http://eknifeworks.com/webapp/eComm...xt=&list=50&range=101&order=Default&SKU=G1626
or the classic af survival
http://www.actiongear.com/cgi-bin/t... - Fixed Blades&backto=/agcatalog/level3c.tam
I have used and owned all of them and you will not be dissapointed
btw if you looking fo an uber d3lta tactical knife buy the lmf, it has the most tactical sheath I have ever seen, I'm just sayin
I'm an outdoors man not a wanabee airsofter
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Moodino said:
Anyone reading this thread ever actually try to cut wood with a flat ground blade? It's absolutely the heaviest amount of friction. That's why Scandis are designed the way the are, the main (usually only) bevel does the actual cutting via a chiseling action and the uppper flat just furnishes dimensional stability and 'separates' the two wood surfaces for the follow through.
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Yes, we all have, and I must say, I really disagree with your statements. A well designed flat ground blade has far more relief for a cut, and far less of the primary grind to suffer from friction than a Scandi blade, which is nothing more than a saber grind without a secondary bevel. My moras are much worse cutters than my flat ground blades, in wood, the kitchen, etc. That's why I pretty much use them for gardening/yard work. Cheap, and I don't cry if I damage or lose them. They're a good knife *for the price*, but certainly not in my upper 50th percentile. YMMV.
 
Blood groove.
Are you getting the Ka-bar Eagle Sheath with your D2 Extreme?If not I'd suggest a spec-ops survival sheath.I have 2 of these and I find them very useful in the woods.The pouch on my Hell Razor's survival sheath is where I keep a small emergency med-kit(suture kit,small trauma patches,band-aids and antiseptic cream)I.My S1's survival sheath is where I keep a multi tool,lighter,small folding can opener and fishing line and some hooks.They also look really cool as well.
 
ok
d2 should never be used on a survival blade
sure it holds a edge well but is immpossible to sharpen on flat rocks
ka-bars suck for survival, they are thin and have a weak rat tail tang that very often breaks when batoning
I used and abused my brand new scrapyard yard hook this weekend
- Skinning 3 deer
- Bushcraft ( cutting wood both dry and green)
- batoning
- Cutting rope
- Digging
- Chopping Ice/Snow
I did all those and there was no blade damage
easy to sharpen and well priced
 
i recently use below Thai machette for cuting pork meat with bones, it was easy..
I did some bushcraft also..:thumbup:

So if ever you go to Thailand, you could by one for cheap...
parangsmalljp2.jpg


It's probably good old carbon steel X75....

I paid it something like 10 usd if memory serve.:D
 
I have mixed feelings about the ka-bar D2 extreme. Is it made in America? I have had great experiences with D2, but I personally dont like the Ka-bar brand. I bought the original usmc ka-bar, and it blunted after about a week. The only material I cut with it was paper. I am now goind to purchase a custom fixed blade, to supliment my Ka-bar.
My custom will have, a six inch D2 clip point blade, either micarda or G10 handle material, and a kydex sheat.
 
oh wow i frogot about this thread:D ya i have already bought a busse GW. i just loved the reveiws on busse over all so i bought on. best grip i have ever felt, cuts very well considering its thickness, i havnt totaly tested the INFI yet but it seems to be holding up, i cut some pretty heavy gaged wire (sorry dont remember how much and i am not the best at juging but i would say 1/8) not a single dent or chip. i want to test it out soon but its so god damn pretty:D
 
I really like the RAT brand or the new version RC Rat Cutlery . excellent blade & micarta handle,great sheath and all around value money wise for the knife...just my 2cents
 
I like this one.Not too big not to small. 5 inch blade of 52-100 steel leather handle.6 months ago when new and now.
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Maybe Bear should have a forum for people to ask what is the best survival knife. Here go ahead and ask him:

jungle_knife.jpg
 
Survival knife doesn't insure your going to survive. Sort of like life insurance doesn't insure that your going to live.

Knowing how to use your tools is more important that the tool itself. If you don't use your knife because it is too damn pretty your SOL.
 
Do you want a "survival knife" or a knife that helps you survive?
If you want the first, any "cool" big knife with compass in the handle, ridiculous serrations and 8" blade and so on works.
If you want a "real" knife you should go with something in the 3,5"-5" range.
Why so "small" you might ask, well it is because you should carry it all the time, otherwise it is not your "survival" knife. The 8" 300 bucks "survival system" strapped to your pack is now floating into next climate zone and you have to make do with what you have in your pockets. If that knife in your pocket is a 4" great quality knife you sure are happier than if it was just a cheap pocket knife.

I would suggest the Fallkniven F1, or maybe the S1. They are about 100 bucks and they compete at the same level as 500 dollar handmade knives regarding quality, edge retention, strength etc. Big enough to solve most tasks you might come up with and at the same time small enough to refrain you from chopping too much.
There are knives in the same range like Bark River and others that might fit you too.

What do you need the knife for, combat survival or outdoor survival?
What environment are you planning to be in, desert or arctic, oceans or desert and so on.
The Fallkniven knives (F1, S1, A1 etc) are made to work in arctic environment, to be used with gloves on and for outdoor survival. The likely scenario being a pilot downed in the mountains in bad weather and no hostiles.

I and many with me are happy with the F1 as the main "survival knife".
The best allround solution is to get a good multitool, a 4" knife of the kind that feels like an extension of your hand and a folding saw.
http://hem.passagen.se/nodh/trio.jpg It might not look Rambo, but it works.
One idea is to get TWO F1s. One you have in your belt or in a neck sheath and the other in your pack. If you loose one you will have a backup of the same type, not a really good knife and a crappy cheap one.
I have read (rumours) somewhere that Swedish para units like the WM1 as a last resort knife. They keep it inside their shirt. It is shorter than the F1, but it is as sharp and as strong. You dont really need a BIG knife unless you want it for defence. If you really think about what you do with a knife (except chopping) you only use a small piece of the edge at a time. There is a big Fallkniven that looks extraordinary cool too, the MC1 double edge mine clearing knife :) My EDC knife is a small Fallkniven U2 folder. It is enough to start a fire to get warm and move of from there. I also carry a F1 and a WM1 if outside the city limits.

Good luck with your choice.
 
the a1 is nice
but other then that I compleatly disagree with you nodh
ok first a disclaimer-I use and very often carry small blades and mora's
but the type of blade I would want for survival and is most useful under stress is a blade 7-9 inches long and about 1/4 thick
made of high carbon steel or a high prformance stainless like infi
for example my current blade is a scrapyard hooker
7 inch, 1/4 thick recurve made of sr-77 steel
 
macgregor22 said:
the a1 is nice
but other then that I compleatly disagree with you nodh
ok first a disclaimer-I use and very often carry small blades and mora's
but the type of blade I would want for survival and is most useful under stress is a blade 7-9 inches long and about 1/4 thick
made of high carbon steel or a high prformance stainless like infi
for example my current blade is a scrapyard hooker
7 inch, 1/4 thick recurve made of sr-77 steel
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I can understand both your viewpoints, and am a fan of INFI as a steel. But... honestly, will you carry that 7" long 0.25" thick slab of steel with you everywhere you go? No, you likely won't, or most knife nuts certainly will not. The ultimate survival knife is having at least an axe, a chainsaw, a regular saw, and a couple of different, stout fixed blades of various lengths and shapes with you at all times. You can tackle any task easy with those. That's the type of blade I would want for survival - I'd want it all, to have a tool for every occasion. Problem is, you can't carry all that stuff. And that's why the small to medium knives are, perhaps, the best survival knives: practical in size for most tasks, small enough to enable everyday carry, and still strong enough to not fail you when you need them. Most people are unlikely to ever get into a survival situation that they can anticipate in advance and have time to fetch their huge 12" chopper from the garage. This means, whatever knife they will have on them when the survival situation presents itself is the one they carry everyday or at least most often. And that's not going to be the huge chopper for most people. A small, good fixed blade can be EDCd easily, though, and is much better than a flimsy folder.
 
Sodak, It is a Bark River Boone. It has a 5 inch blade. It is not stainless so it will not look nice after a while of using it. But hey I bought it to use not just look at. They do make it in fancier handles but I like the leather for a user. $140 and a lifetime warranty. I mean a lifetime warranty. Alot of companies warrant against defects. They warrant against everything even if its your fault. A great company. Their website is not up to date but there are some stocking dealers that carry the most current knives. It is a great all around knife imo.
 
Here is another knife I like. Its small enough that I carry it almost everyday in my jacket. This one has stag but it comes in a variety of handle materials. I bought it as a compact hunting knife but it has become a favorite.

HPIM0390.jpg

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