Tacticals Made by Us for Special OPS Forces

Roger,

Here is a (bad) photo of an ugly knife as I mentioned in the Email. I need to do a few things to it and clean it up some. I will send it along by the end of next week.

A2 blade at HRC 60+, 7 7/8" X 1 1/2" X 5/32" very shallow (<10° included) flat with subsequent full convex grind and a false edge on the clip. The blade has an antique etch a la Chuck Burrows-he showed me how to do it on this knife. The guard has a blued, etched,rusty patina and is mild steel. OAL is ~12 1/4". Handle has Copper and buffalo horn spacer, Ironwoo/Osage Orange slabs on full tang, and steel pins. This handle is 4 1/2" and barely large enough for my hand . It should probably go to someone with normal size hands.

I am going to attach a thong to the back side of the guard and another in the sheath secure the knife. It is a good fit, but headed for combat, I want it iron clad.

This is the same steel as the original Chris Reeve green beret knives. I like to harden to to the 60+ because that is where it has max impact strength. Whoever gets it should have diamonds to sharpen it with.
 
Steve, I am close to not knowing what to say. Masterful. Absolutely masterful and I am pleased with your credit given Chuck. He has allowed myself to see a great sample of his work in a sheath he made for one of my customer knives. Your knife is breath taking to me. I only fear as I see it in person just prior to my shipping out I will throw in the towel and retire to making hamburgers or something.

While on this I want to take this moment to express my happiness with all that has been occuring with this thread. I've been getting emails from knifemakers and these postings that have really effected me. In the beginning of this thread I stated something about somethings we donate that are not necessarilly for the purpose of defeating the enemy can make us feel all warm and fuzzy inside and that war is not just about feeling all warm and fuzzy inside. You great guys are making me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Nothing but the best for our Troops and from us that is what they will have.

RL
 
I would like some more info on how to ship this stuff. Not THESE, just in general. (If it has been covered point me to a post number, I didn't re-read all the post after I read about the contents having to be on the box)
I have a friend I grew up with that I thought was leaving in Feb or March and I found out he is leaving in less than a week. I have no skills but I sure would like to try and make him a knife. Plus I don't want to be a buzz kill, but, what if all these custom knives get shipped at the same time and never make it? Or worse, end up in the enemies hands?
 
Trick,

As of now the knives are being shipped direct to me and I am shipping out as they arrive to me, within a day or two. You must be advised though that all these, so far, are being shipped by me to one address for only one Alpha Force stationed in Afganistan. If you have another group you prefer it go to I am not, at this time, able to help with that. Perhaps I misunderstood your post. If so please advise. Regardless your intentions are most valuable so please follow up.

The address I ship to is a US Army address and I am shipping as they arrive, not holding for one bulk shipment.

Thanks Trick.

RL
 
Howiesatwork suggested a tan or camo color scheme for this knife in another thread and I thought I'd ask for some input from you folks. Here is the color pallet from Gun Kote; I'll put the color choices below and see what you all have to say. Doesn't look like I can build a poll in a reply... Thanks for any input.

gunkotecolors.jpg


2 - Gold
3 - Bronze
5 - Green
9 - OD
10 - Mil Spec OD
11 - Gun Metal Gray
12 - Matte Black
13 - Black

How about it? I'm willing to airbrush a camo pattern in two colors. (I think.) The color will be applied to an "extra fine" Scotchbrite finish.
 
Thanks Don that's kind of what I had in mind too except sand blasting. I'm sure I can find someplace around here to get that done, just never thought about it.
 
I've been trying to minimize my posts on this subject but since Rodger brought it up, it should be addressed.

Rodger is spending a fair amount of his money shipping them. I am asking Rodger to Email me the amount it costs him per knife. I am going to send enough to cover the shipping.

The reason for the email is because some of you can't afford the extra cost right now or simply feel that making a knife is enough. I don't disagree with either position. It is simply something to think about and it NEEDS TO BE DECIDED IN PRIVATE.
 
Does the color matter that much? It would seem to me that as long as it is not shiny it would work. If someone is close enough to detect the color of a dull blade in daylight, you had better shoot him.
 
Colors do matter some Steve. Sand blasted metal color doesn't exist anywhere in nature. What your opponents are looking for (If they are any good at all) is something out of place, not an entire form. It gets to be second nature and you do it without even thinking about it.

I'm not sure I gave Dave the right colors though. I keep forgetting that it's going to the beach instead of the jungle. :D
 
I think the main thing in this case is that it's subdued; wouldn't do to be sending flash signals to the enemy. While the colors probably do matter some it seems to me that camo has the effect of breaking up its overall shape more than anything else. Although orange and purple might stick out a little... :D I think I read on their site that all these colors are available in a flat finish, which is what I have in mind.

One of the benefits of this is that with any luck at all we'll all get some feedback on performance. In this case, since I've never used any kind of coating, I'll get to find out how hardy the stuff really is.

But more than anything else, these men are doing something that really needs to be done and this is the only opportunity I've ever had to help out. I'm truly grateful.
 
Don, I didn't mean just a natural metal color, I just meant that a dull etched or colored surface the size of a knife blades would be less visible than the G.I. and all the rest of his equipment.

I went back over mine and blued the tang and all the pins and reblued the blade and guard over the etch, giving it a dull dark gray-almost OD color except for the wood which is mostly dark anyway.

It ain't pretty, but it doesn't reflect much light.
 
Here is one I have been working on all weekend. Very close now.
3/16" L-6 Very tough steel. 10" overall with 5" of blade. Nowhere as large as some of the ones I have seen, but a good worker. Name and edge it will be ready to ship.

Paul
 

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I'm thinking of cold blueing mine. Am having difficulty learning the use of Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown. Will cold blue be okay? The blade will be 1075. It is not going to be a take-apart so baking Gun-Kote at 300 F is out for this one. Where can I send it for bead blasting?

Thanks.

RL
 
Rodger, if your having trouble with the brown, you have probably polished to high. Don't go above 400. Make sure you use it in a damp environment at about 85 degrees F.

A pipe with a wet rag in the bottom and a light bulb works well.

BTW, the brown you are using is not the same formula they used to use. What they used for years and the traditional formula is just dilute Aqua Fortis. The EPA made them quit selling it but you can mix it up at home.
 
rlinger said:
I'm thinking of cold blueing mine. Am having difficulty learning the use of Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown. Will cold blue be okay? The blade will be 1075. It is not going to be a take-apart so baking Gun-Kote at 300 F is out for this one. Where can I send it for bead blasting?

Thanks.

RL
Click to expand...

Roger you could Gun kote the balde before you handle it.
I'll bead blast it if you want?
I can sent it back to you with the Calb knife if you want... :)
 
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P Moore, I like this a lot. It looks like it will handle 'wet' and dry work alike. As there is no hilt are you going to fit it with a wide lanyard to stop 'slippage' down the blade?

Either way, me likey :D
 
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