Tacticals Made by Us for Special OPS Forces

rlinger said:
I'm thinking of cold blueing mine. Am having difficulty learning the use of Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown. Will cold blue be okay? The blade will be 1075. It is not going to be a take-apart so baking Gun-Kote at 300 F is out for this one. Where can I send it for bead blasting?

Thanks.

RL
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You could take a look into Tool Black, MSC has it. I have used it on several khukris. Seem to go on darker then cold blue and be a bit tougher of a finish. I do a light etch with ferric acid clean the blade well and then use the Tool Black. I have used the Perma Blue several times also,so I can compare the two of them fairly well. With both I found that it helped to heat the blade, I used boiling water dried it then blued it while it was still hot. Perhaps I could send you some Roger but I do not know about shipping it or I would be happy to do the blade for you. Just a thought. I will be doing my blade this way.
 
Thanks all. Dan, thanks for the offer to bead blast. Timing for shipping it back with collab knife is not good as I doubt I can start on mine until later this month. Mark, I have Oxpha Blue here. I will check the tool black out in my MSC cataloge. Thanks for the tip. In the mean time I am still experimenting with the barrel brown on a scrap piece of steel.

RL
 
rlinger said:
Thanks all. Dan, thanks for the offer to bead blast. Timing for shipping it back with collab knife is not good as I doubt I can start on mine until later this month. Mark, I have Oxpha Blue here. I will check the tool black out in my MSC cataloge. Thanks for the tip. In the mean time I am still experimenting with the barrel brown on a scrap piece of steel.

RL
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not problem Roger


isn't the barrel brown just a form of controlled rust?
I believe it will still have to be protected? as would any gun bluing of any sort,
I agree it will slow the process of rusting down but maintenance will still be an issue

personally
I'm very interested in the gun-kote,, that will be ordered today :D

I wonder if they will charge a hazardous fee on that stuff too :rolleyes:
 
What can I do at home to protect the 0-1? I am going to etch the steel and maybe cold blue. Any other method for a simple protection?
 
blgoode said:
What can I do at home to protect the 0-1? I am going to etch the steel and maybe cold blue. Any other method for a simple protection?
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for simple protection, keep it oiled.
2nd to it it will gain it's own patina but it takes time to develop
but will still rust and pit but at a slower rate. :)
 
Oil will attract sand. I was just reading an old blade mag talking to a SF that was there the first time around and he said no oil. I am pretty sure they said they used beeswax and a diamond steel to sharpen.
 
Trick said:
Oil will attract sand. I was just reading an old blade mag talking to a SF that was there the first time around and he said no oil. I am pretty sure they said they used beeswax and a diamond steel to sharpen.
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he did say"for simple protection :) good point though..

for not so simple protection I'll use 154CM steel ;) :D
for the carbons
a car wax should work well also :)
 
Dan Gray said:
not problem Roger


isn't the barrel brown just a form of controlled rust?
I believe it will still have to be protected? as would any gun bluing of any sort,
I agree it will slow the process of rusting down but maintenance will still be an issue

personally
I'm very interested in the gun-kote,, that will be ordered today :D

I wonder if they will charge a hazardous fee on that stuff too :rolleyes:
Click to expand...


I do not know about the rusting agent , but I do know that the different kind of cold blueing products can give you a suprising amount of protection from rusting. You can go over to the Himalayan Imports Forum here and find countless threads on different kinds of blueing. I have several khukris that I have blued and then have put them through brutal use chopping, digging out roots from the ground etc and the coatings have held up very well. About the only maintenance and up keep has been whipping off the blades no oiling or anything and rust has been only very minor. I wonder if gun-kote would go over blueing so that you could have both? I have a question. Does anyone know if gun-kote and the rusting agent used in muzzle loading are food safe? I know that the Casey blueing products are food safe after they have been applied to the blade and are dry. Someone on the Himalayan Imports Forum called the company to find out because the question was raised there. I thought of that last night and am somewhat concerned about using the Tool Black because I do not know if it is food safe or not. Just thought that I would throw that out there. Thanks everyone.
 
whipping off the blades no oiling or anything and rust has been only very minor

mark I'm replying just because of the quote..
but you are getting rust, ;)
wiping it down is maintenance in it-self also,
this alone on guns or knives slow the rusting down also. if it didn't what would be the use of using it (the bluing)
other than the looks of it.. I'm just saying bluing needs maintenance and always will.
natural patina is in my opinion as good as Gun bluing.
but it takes some time for this to build up to be effective.
 
As Kit said about shipping quite often, we do the same thing.
Shipping knives to military personal is a weekly event here at the shop.
My customs are in several military and police personal hands all over the world at this time.
We also have many friends that are on the way over to the middle east and other destinations that stop in before leaving the U.S. to get a dependable knives.

Combat Elite has sent several hundred knives out to military personal.
We send some knives gratis!

I do want to commend all the folks that chip in and send knives over for the military.

Good luck with the project.
 
Dan Gray said:
whipping off the blades no oiling or anything and rust has been only very minor

mark I'm replying just because of the quote..
but you are getting rust, ;)
wiping it down is maintenance in it-self also,
this alone on guns or knives slow the rusting down also. if it didn't what would be the use of using it (the bluing)
other than the looks of it.. I'm just saying bluing needs maintenance and always will.
natural patina is in my opinion as good as Gun bluing.
but it takes some time for this to build up to be effective.
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I hope that my post didn't come across as harsh or anything. I did not mean it to be so. Yeah I have gotten a bit of rust just hoped to point out that blueing would be much better then sending a bare non stainless blade. And I agree natural patina being as good if not better then blueing but as you said it take time to get a good patina.
 
I think I am now getting the hang of Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown. Think that is what I will stick with. Thanks for helping to rescue me on this. All is okay now.

RL
 
Mark Nelson said:
I hope that my post didn't come across as harsh or anything. I did not mean it to be so. Yeah I have gotten a bit of rust just hoped to point out that blueing would be much better then sending a bare non stainless blade. And I agree natural patina being as good if not better then blueing but as you said it take time to get a good patina.
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none taken here Mark :)
I know your point, I just didn't want anyone to think that I thought Bluing was useless. it's on all my guns :D
 
Roger Linger invited me to post here.....

He and I e-chatted this morning. I am fortunate to have a couple of extra Kabar's in my collection and hoped they would be OK to forward to his SF contacts.

He said "Wonderful" and less than an hour ago I mailed two Kabar's to Roger for further transfer.

Cheers,

Carl
retired Navy Seabee
 
and we have another maker out of country making one for the cause that his identity can not be recognized online (security reasons).

Also, please know that Carl from the above post selflessly contacted me about donating a couple of good and appropriate knives. I of course said yes indeed, and 'Wonderful'. He started his offering by commenting that he is not a maker but wanted to help in this anyway.

RL
 
Roger;
E-mail me your address. Mine will be ready to ship to you by mid week.

Paul
 
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