The "Ask Nathan a Question" Thread

PeteyTwoPointOne said:
Microbevel D3V @ 20 dps ... does it make any difference good or bad?

I ask because I primarily use my Sharpmaker for touch ups and the 15 deg. rod holes won't hit the apex unless I fudge a bit with the angle of the dangle.

It's a lot easier for me to just mindlessly draw down vertically with the 20 deg. slots. I realize eventually I'll have to reprofile, but I haven't got there yet on my EDC...not even close, really.

Thanks Nathan, for everything.
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Yeah I figure that'll be about ideal
 
bluemax_1 said:
...

Was doing a little yardwork today and used the Behemother to chop down a ~3" offshoot and to limb and chop it into 3' sections for the brush pile.

LOVE the rubber inlay handle scales. I've had micarta scales, Terotuf and Ebonite, and the rubber inlay scales are just amazing. The grip/friction beats all the other options, and aesthetically, the contrast of the black rubber inlays and natural micarta is striking, but that grip is just fantastic.

Even without needing to swing hard, the Behemother bites deep and doesn't stick in cuts. With the grippy rubber scales, it doesn't require a super firm grip for secure retention/control. Between not needing to swing hard to bite deep, and not needing to death grip the handles for secure control, this big knife is surprisingly easy to use.

I've used a lot of big knives, and between the less secure grips wasting more energy due to the tighter grip required, and the less efficient geometry requiring/wasting more effort per swing, in comparison, I can swing this puppy a lot longer and make many more cuts before tiring out.

The only reason this won't replace the MC as my preferred Large Camp Knife, is due to preferring not to carry the added weight, but for chopping things where I won't be hiking a lot (and don't need an axe), the Behemother gets the nod.

Pity Nathan doesn't intend to make any more of these rubber inlay scales. For the folks who haven't had the chance to use them, you're missing out.
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@bluemax_1 , Great post! :thumbsup:

I would absolutely love to see all-rubber grips for the big choppers, a little softer than Ebonite. Not only would they provide a secure grip, but also some shock absorption. Nathan the Machinist Nathan the Machinist , your thoughts?
 
Hi Nathan, I was wondering if you could comment on the DEK geometry and tip strength. Your thread on a reinforced point - UF vs FK2 was helpful and I am wondering where the DEK fits in?

Would an added swedge to the dek reinforce the point or does it simply make it more stabby?
 
Nathan, I went back through all of the DEK1 sales, and could not find a post where you listed the specific details for the blade as you have done for your other models? For the DEK1, what is the thickness behind the edge, and what is your standard sharpening angle in DPS? Are these details the same for both the D3V and the AEBL models? Thanks, -Bob
 
XtianAus said:
Hi Nathan, I was wondering if you could comment on the DEK geometry and tip strength. Your thread on a reinforced point - UF vs FK2 was helpful and I am wondering where the DEK fits in?

Would an added swedge to the dek reinforce the point or does it simply make it more stabby?
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Adding a swedge doesn't make the tip stronger any more than cutting a flute into a barrel makes a barrel stiffer. But a fluted barrel design where the materiel is redistributed in a way to increase the area moment of inertia by increasing the barrel diameter and removing material with flutes to achieve that same amount of material (and subsequently the same weight) is stiffer, because the larger diameter and the increase in stiffness with diameter isn't linear, it is exponential. The same is true for a knife designed for tip strength by bringing the full width of the blade directly behind and aligned with the point rather than back at the spine. You can shift the shoulder of the design with a swedge. But simply adding a swedge without also widening the primary grind angle doesn't strengthen that design.
 
Burton Knut said:
Any chance you could divulge some basics about the upcoming DEK preorder? Like, both steel options? Swedgies? Popsicle sticks?
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Yes, there will be D3V and AEBL, small swedge and tongue depressor sticks, satin finish, acid wash, antique micarta, Terotuf in grey, green and bright green, penetrator tip. There will not be dagger ground or double edged.
 
TRfromMT said:
Nathan the Machinist Nathan the Machinist what are your experience and thoughts on K390 steel? Specifically, a carbon steel for a pocket knife?
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Probably pretty decent for a pocket knife. But, like M4 vs 4V it probably has too much alloy in it and subsequently too much carbide for the best edge stability in a narrow knife edge.
 
moparsbob said:
Nathan, I went back through all of the DEK1 sales, and could not find a post where you listed the specific details for the blade as you have done for your other models? For the DEK1, what is the thickness behind the edge, and what is your standard sharpening angle in DPS? Are these details the same for both the D3V and the AEBL models? Thanks, -Bob
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Yeah, we're running the AEBL and D3V the same. They're HRC 60.5, ~.018" before sharpening, 20DPS, 6.2 ounce, 4.5" blade length, 9.125" total length
 
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