The "Ask Nathan a Question" Thread

[Tools_and_Tights]

Removal requires two torx bits (one on each side). If you’re still having trouble apply some heat with a hairdryer or heat gun and try again.

Ok I’ll give that a shot, thank you! The Ti Torx come off very easily so I’ll be adding those to my future purchases, plus they look awesome

 

[toker]

On a related note, don't buy cheap bits. Buy quality like Wiha or Wear. A stripped screw is going to ruin your day.

 

[ferider]

The stainless standard screws are Hex, not Torx.

 

[Cap’n Smudge]

Casinostocks (and others) can even tell you which screw should spin and which shouldn’t. This is important to prevent galling of the threaded tube. I’ve never paid it much attention and have never had a problem. But others have.

 

[Casinostocks]

Casinostocks (and others) can even tell you which screw should spin and which shouldn’t. This is important to prevent galling of the threaded tube. I’ve never paid it much attention and have never had a problem. But others have.

#stillnotnathan:

Typically with CPKs, the hardware thread on the maker's mark etched side is red Loctite'd and the one on the none etched side (older models have LA squared etched) is treated with blue Loctite. I personally use a soldering device's tip to heat up the side treated with blue Loctite prior to removal and I use Wiha bits (Torx, Hex or otherwise). My only major eff up was my first ever CPK which was an LC when I didn't know any better; I had to gradually tap out the jammed cylinder closest to the butt which back then I found to become a very harrowing experience on a ~ $385 knife (my most expensive purchase at that time!).

I have changed / removed quite a few CPK scales and although above is the standard format, I have had a few that the maker's mark side came loose more easily after applying soldering heat

 

[ferider]

Here is what I do when re-assembling: put red Loctite and a screw into each spacer on one side. Then, put the knife on it's spine on the table, tip away from my chest, and screw in the other screws with blue loctite from the right side. That's why the makers mark side has the blue loctite So I don't stab myself .... must be difficult for left-handers, I guess.

 

[SwarthyGnome]

View attachment 2330268

What are the dimensions of this pry bar?
Please and thank you.

 

[Cap’n Smudge]

What are the dimensions of this pry bar?
Please and thank you.

#notnathan
It appears to be 3 dimensional.
You may think this is not a helpful post but it is likely more helpful than the “yes” or “no” response you have set yourself up for.

Why not find out what the dimensions are after you buy it like the rest of us.

 

[JACKMANDU]

#notnathan
It appears to be 3 dimensional.
You may think this is not a helpful post but it is likely more helpful than the “yes” or “no” response you have set yourself up for.

Why not find out what the dimensions are after you buy it like the rest of us.

Actually you can find out the dimensions before buying. Just make sure to thoroughly read the for sale thread before claiming one.

 

[Ghost coyote]

Assuming you couldn’t use yours, what is your favorite chef knife, and why is it a gyuto?

Additionally, considering blade shape and geometry, which one would you buy?

 

[SwarthyGnome]

Nathan, are there certain types of knives, or tools that you plan to make for the basic line?

 

[yoko]

Hate to bother......


But since being able to handle a raw K20 can't stop thinking about it .... any more pics??

Please and thank you! Lol

 

[Burke]

What are the dimensions of this pry bar?
Please and thank you.

Just because it pains me to think of future readers having to look up the answer to this question themselves, here are dimensions sourced from the sale thread:

This is the new Breaching tool pattern designed by and for firemen to open holes in things.
Please limit one per order.

6" Blade, .350" thick, Delta CPM 3V, HRC 60.5, sharpened 45 degrees on one side

12 3/16" total length

1 pound, 9 oz

Total lateral strength (cantilevered one side unsupported lateral strength) 1,500 lbs (provides 6:1 safety margin for a 250 pound load)

Can be used as a cold chisel, used with a "cheater bar" and also hammered upon.

Includes a nice kydex sheath.

$500, shipped

 

[Cap’n Smudge]

Just because it pains me to think of future readers having to look up the answer to this question themselves, here are dimensions sourced from the sale thread:

Pretty sure I already answered that one.

 

[SwarthyGnome]

Just because it pains me to think of future readers having to look up the answer to this question themselves, here are dimensions sourced from the sale thread:

Pretty late to the party, dude.

 

[Burke]

Pretty late to the party, dude.

It was for posterity, not you.

 

[ferider]

Pretty late to the party, dude.

So, are you going to make scales for it ?

 

[fnordmorph]

Speaking of late to the party, looking through older Carothers patterns and finding the exact opposite of the sharpened pry bar... I have to wonder if another run of skinners might ever be made? Since obviously Nathan & Co have so little else on their plate already...

 

[SwarthyGnome]

So, are you going to make scales for it ?

I have been putting thought into it. Depends on a couple of factors… and I would need it in-hand first. Waiting for mine to ship.

 

[Nathan the Machinist]

Hate to bother......


But since being able to handle a raw K20 can't stop thinking about it .... any more pics??

Please and thank you! Lol

Man I'm struggling getting the Makino's set up and running the scales right now which is causing a bottleneck unfortunately. They are, otherwise, just about ready to rock. I am currently stuck in machine repair purgatory but I'm making progress.