The Bears' Den--Shirogorov Showcase

[knoefz]

Diggin the Quantam Ursus and have been considering picking one up just kind of holding out to see if other inlays will be offered. Some CF would be right up my alley although the wood looks good too.
Enjoying the day off and realized i never posted up my Tabargan here with the updated scales.

The latest Ursus have been released with black G10 inlays, very nice imho (picture from Shiro website)

 

[Murphjd25]

 

[Mr.sig239]

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[Honed_Edge]

I've been hanging out in the CRK subforum for years. Over the last decade, somehow over two dozen lefty 21's just appeared at my door. My checking account mysteriously kept draining during that time! I have wanted a Shiro for so long... but I'm wrong handed. CRK has been just about my only go to option. The neon was tempting. I hesitated and lost the chance. I stumbled upon (a site that maybe shouldn't be said) and they had lefty f95 zero's in stock. I hesitated thinking about my prior hesitation. No more waiting, a Shiro is on the way. Tracking says tomorrow!


It's here, finally! I had to go pick it up at 7:15pm... FedEx, you know what you did! Anyway, here are some quick phone pics before bed.
Notice it's been sharpened. It came rather dull, about like all my CRK's. It's mine now for sure. The DMT's took about 20 minutes to get it hair whittling. Yes, I was very nervous sharpening it. It's a user though. From the box, to the stones and into the pocket. It's already made several cuts around the house. The first big scratch still is worrying me.

I may have bought two due to global economic and political issues. I wasn't sure anymore would be available and getting replacement parts would be exceptionally hard. Now I have a complete set of "spare parts" sitting around incase. Both F95's have equal fit and finish, they're both fantastic. CRK's actions are always a little bit different when new despite almost always smoothing out. Both Shiros had identical feeling detents and drop shut action out of the box. One did lock up a little earlier. I made that one my "work knife" as it has more time to wear in or something like that. I'm still super excited but it's now well past my bed time. I look forward to adding my pictures to the over 200 pages of awesomeness! Sorry I'm late to the party everyone.

 

[Leo Greer]

I’ve finally got my first Shiro.

This is the “best” knife I’ve ever held. Not even close.

Ergonomics, construction, details… this thing is the whole package.

For only a hair over 1K, that is.

 

[Leo Greer]

One question for all of y’all who are more experienced than I;

What is the easiest way to disassemble the custom screws without scratching them up?

I’m going to try the old credit card method, but I feel like having a dedicated tool would be nice also.

 

[badmatt]

I use a nickle in a plastic baggie (folded over itself) for my pivot and a taped up #2 flat head for the rear screw.

BUT: if you want to spend money on tools Josh @ REK has driver bits for Shiro's

 

[Leo Greer]

I use a nickle in a plastic baggie (folded over itself) for my pivot and a taped up #2 flat head for the rear screw.

BUT: if you want to spend money on tools Josh @ REK has driver bits for Shiro's

I’m kinda feeling the microfiber cloth over screwdriver head/coin idea. I’ll probably try it out tonight.

 

[Pompous]

I’m kinda feeling the microfiber cloth over screwdriver head/coin idea. I’ll probably try it out tonight.

Before purchasing my shiro driver, I used a penny or other coin and didn't have a problem - but I believe that was on a knife with the loctite already broken. That would be the biggest concern I think.

 

[Leo Greer]

Before purchasing my shiro driver, I used a penny or other coin and didn't have a problem - but I believe that was on a knife with the loctite already broken. That would be the biggest concern I think.

I found that a nickel wrapped in a microfiber cloth worked perfectly for the main pivot, and then I just used a small screwdriver also wrapped in a cloth for the second screw.

Absolutely no marks on the screws, and no troubles getting leverage.

The most annoying part was dealing with the cloth over the nickel while I turned it.

 

[Ajack60]

I found that a nickel wrapped in a microfiber cloth worked perfectly for the main pivot, and then I just used a small screwdriver also wrapped in a cloth for the second screw.

Absolutely no marks on the screws, and no troubles getting leverage.

The most annoying part was dealing with the cloth over the nickel while I turned it.

I’m in the camp that believes the right tool for the right job saves a headache down the road. Why buy a gorgeous and expensive knife, just to use a makeshift tool that has a greater chance of messing something up over the correct tool ?

 

[Leo Greer]

I’m in the camp that believes the right tool for the right job saves a headache down the road. Why buy a gorgeous and expensive knife, just to use a makeshift tool that has a greater chance of messing something up over the correct tool ?

My deal would be that I’m not 100% sure I want to keep it yet.

I wanted to know what the action would feel like after some cleaning before I could make a decision on whether I’m keeping it.

I totally agree with you on correct tools. Having a quality T8 driver in my kit was something that I didn’t get immediately when starting this hobby, and definitely ended up spending more money and messing up some things because of it.

 

[Mr.sig239]

I use a penny and a dime on mine. I'm not spending hundreds of dollars for a glorified screw driver! That money is going towards a knife purchase. Maybe if they sold just the bits for 25 to 40 dollars.
Bonus pics from today's carry.

 

[Mr.sig239]

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[Mr.sig239]

The whole collection waiting for bed: (removed all the fobs also. Going to change them around.)

 

[ChazzyP]

Checking back in here after not posting for 3 weeks as this old guy has returned to a more tenable pace without the demands of a full-time work schedule now that I've achieved substantial completion on my winter project....

I've always been an advocate of using appropriate, quality tools for any given job, but can make little sense of spending hundreds of dollars on a pen just because it comes with appropriate sized bits for a particular knife. I did buy a Shiro hedgehog tool from Vladimir_K for 50 bucks which fits well and is kinda cool, but lacks much leverage if needed, and I find its fixed thickness gauges more useful than its bit drivers. I also bought a very nicely milled aluminum Shiro tool from Jekyll to Hyde--also 50 bucks--which fits excellently too, but its hexagonal handle affords not the greatest grip nor leverage either. REK's bits make a lot of sense and I like supporting Josh, much as I do Bill (or Sergey, for that matter), but they're not inexpensive, though I'm sure they're a great fit and I understand the cost/time synthesis of small batch, machined items.

Given the nature of my thick, old, arthritic carpenter's mitts, the best tool for me loosening or tightening PacMan screws without marring is an appropriately sized common bit shrouded with electrical tape in one of my stubby Wiha drivers. If I don't need a lot of leverage, I can use either the hedgehog or the JtoH tool, but if I need to break thread locker (though I avoid it if at all possible) or really honk a screw down, it's the taped common driver for me.

 

[Rufus1949]

Checking back in here after not posting for 3 weeks as this old guy has returned to a more tenable pace without the demands of a full-time work schedule now that I've achieved substantial completion on my winter project....

I've always been an advocate of using appropriate, quality tools for any given job, but can make little sense of spending hundreds of dollars on a pen just because it comes with appropriate sized bits for a particular knife. I did buy a Shiro hedgehog tool from Vladimir_K for 50 bucks which fits well and is kinda cool, but lacks much leverage if needed, and I find its fixed thickness gauges more useful than its bit drivers. I also bought a very nicely milled aluminum Shiro tool from Jekyll to Hyde--also 50 bucks--which fits excellently too, but its hexagonal handle affords not the greatest grip nor leverage either. REK's bits make a lot of sense and I like supporting Josh, much as I do Bill (or Sergey, for that matter), but they're not inexpensive, though I'm sure they're a great fit and I understand the cost/time synthesis of small batch, machined items.

Given the nature of my thick, old, arthritic carpenter's mitts, the best tool for me loosening or tightening PacMan screws without marring is an appropriately sized common bit shrouded with electrical tape in one of my stubby Wiha drivers. If I don't need a lot of leverage, I can use either the hedgehog or the JtoH tool, but if I need to break thread locker (though I avoid it if at all possible) or really honk a screw down, it's the taped common driver for me.

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Thanks for the advice. You can teach an old dog new tricks.

 

[Mr.sig239]

Dressed up the Quantum with a new style fob.

 

[Ilikesharpstuff]

Hey all, quick question.

I just purchased an F95NL with an Elmax blade and green micarta inlays. The CoA says MRBS, but the previous owner told me this particular configuration did not come in MRBS and it is a "typo" on the info card, he says it is SRBS though he has never opened it up to find out for sure...I think his info came from a Facebook group or something. Does anyone here know if he is correct or will I just have to crack it open and find out myself?

 

[Chuck_Nunface]

Hey all, quick question.

I just purchased an F95NL with an Elmax blade and green micarta inlays. The CoA says MRBS, but the previous owner told me this particular configuration did not come in MRBS and it is a "typo" on the info card, he says it is SRBS though he has never opened it up to find out for sure...I think his info came from a Facebook group or something. Does anyone here know if he is correct or will I just have to crack it open and find out myself?

If it's Elmax and from the last few years, it is likely srbs.