The Bears' Den--Shirogorov Showcase

jacobconroy75 jacobconroy75 , I've learned not to use any magnetic tools on the bearings as they become easily magnetized and attracted to any nearby steel, making re-insertion more difficult. I have a tweezer with narrow nylon noses which requires only light pressure to handle and re-install the bearings as over-squeezing can result in them flying off and getting lost. When removing bearings, a good dose of isopropyl helps break down the grease and getting out those that won't come willingly becomes less problematic. I just work over a towel, pull the pivot and let the cages fall out if they will, giving them a light pry if they won't. All my knives go back together with NanoOil, save those with Nylon/Teflon washers (TriFlow)--no grease for me in any pivots.

There's the underlay washers that the bearing's ride on, the bearing cages that they ride in (the "21" holes), and the races that are milled into the slabs that washers and cages travel in, though the washers more or less just sit there.
 
jacobconroy75 said:
It’s better than it’s ever been (but it’s only a couple of months old).

Do you mean the race or the washers? I might have my terminology wrong, but I thought the race was the part with 21 holes drilled in it for bearings, and I call the other parts that touch the bearings washers. I had the impression that the “washers” were a consumable/wear part and included in the rebuild kits. There is a washer on both sides (CF and Ti scales).

Does anyone know if I have that right?

What exactly is included in a rebuild kit from R1?
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Correct - the washer. I misspoke with I said "race".
Curiosity got the best of me and I did a quick search in the Shiro FB group..There are numerous reports of the bearings wearing into the washers, but the pics look worse than yours. I'm not saying there is an issue or there isn't an issue, just passing along some info. Me personally, I'd be keeping an eye on things.

Shiro's response:

 
Huh, I’ve definitely noticed the tracks on the washers but on the Shiro’s I’ve had apart you couldn’t really even feel them, the tracks were just polished from the contact. It seems like even if a batch of washers made out spec’d under hardness from what they normally run, I’d have to imagine it would take a long time to wear enough to show an issue? These knives operate on “loose” ball-tang contact so they flip easily, there can’t be that much pressure across the rest of the pivot parts as well.
 
ChazzyP said:
jacobconroy75 jacobconroy75 , I've learned not to use any magnetic tools on the bearings as they become easily magnetized and attracted to any nearby steel, making re-insertion more difficult. I have a tweezer with narrow nylon noses which requires only light pressure to handle and re-install the bearings as over-squeezing can result in them flying off and getting lost. When removing bearings, a good dose of isopropyl helps break down the grease and getting out those that won't come willingly becomes less problematic. I just work over a towel, pull the pivot and let the cages fall out if they will, giving them a light pry if they won't. All my knives go back together with NanoOil, save those with Nylon/Teflon washers (TriFlow)--no grease for me in any pivots.

There's the underlay washers that the bearing's ride on, the bearing cages that they ride in (the "21" holes), and the races that are milled into the slabs that washers and cages travel in, though the washers more or less just sit there.
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Ah, I DID have my terminology all screwed up. :)

I managed to get one bearing out with my finger, then used a pick to pull the bearing cage out (then poked the bearings out over a towel with the plastic tweezers), then the magnet to get the underlay washers out. Couldn’t figure out another way. The washers were really dirty and greasy and stuck with suction. Might be easier next time.

How do you get the washers out? Mine wouldn’t come out with a pick, or tapping the scale upside down. I did squirt some Wilson Combat cleaner in there (the weak, safe stuff) and gave it some q-tip action. Still a lot of gunk underneath after.

And yeah brother, no more grease in my Shiros. I had some Gun Butter around and used that.
 
buccilli15 said:
Correct - the washer. I misspoke with I said "race".
Curiosity got the best of me and I did a quick search in the Shiro FB group..There are numerous reports of the bearings wearing into the washers, but the pics look worse than yours. I'm not saying there is an issue or there isn't an issue, just passing along some info. Me personally, I'd be keeping an eye on things.

Shiro's response:

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I agree. It was more wear than I expected. But, I do run the pivot tighter than they come from Shiro. Could be why it’s wearing.

I’m going to order a rebuild kit for the Hati to have extra bearings around if no other reason. If the kit comes with washers, then I won’t worry about it too much.
 
I looked at the list of parts included in an R1 rebuild kit. It doesn’t mention the washers. Bummer.

Now that I know that, I just backed my pivot tension off on all my Shiros to more of a “factory” level. Hope I haven’t screwed ‘em up.
 
jacobconroy75 said:
How do you get the washers out? Mine wouldn’t come out with a pick, or tapping the scale upside down. I did squirt some Wilson Combat cleaner in there (the weak, safe stuff) and gave it some q-tip action. Still a lot of gunk underneath after.

And yeah brother, no more grease in my Shiros
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I've used the pointy tip of a fresh blade from a retractable razor knife, levering a stuck washer out with the outboard edge of the recess as the fulcrum.

I hate grease in knives. There's usually way too much loose, black gunk in Russian and other foreign BB pivots. A small amount of light lube is all you need in there. Once you get all that out, any subsequent cleanings/maintenance will be way easier.

jacobconroy75 said:
I looked at the list of parts included in an R1 rebuild kit. It doesn’t mention the washers. Bummer.

Now that I know that, I just backed my pivot tension off on all my Shiros to more of a “factory” level. Hope I haven’t screwed ‘em up.
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l wouldn't worry too much about the washers--you could always flip them over and the other side should be just fine. The washers are only there to protect the recesses in the slabs. Measuring the diameters inside and out and the washer's thickness would give you enough info to order a couple from one of the knife makers' supply outlets.
 
I don't know if the seller wants to remain a secret or not, so I'll stay silent for now; but this purple F3 NS arrived today.

I've had several people tell me here and elsewhere that their F3 NS detent is a weaker than other F3's and Shiros. In this case, the detent is definitely weaker than my F3 Aquatic, Terrus, Ignis and Aerum, as well as my Emerald Micarta F3 (or my F95 R18). But it still feels nice and smooth, and just grabbing the knife and flipping it without a thought will always see it open.

While I can gently pushbutton it so lightly that I'm intentionally trying to force it to fail deployment; I have to actually think about it and purposefully be trying to get it to fail. Failing to lock open is NOT the default when operating the knife, which is good news, and I'm happy with it!

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DocJekl DocJekl I can carry my F3 (pre “NS) and it takes me a bit to get used to how light the detent is but I quickly adapt and after a week I don’t even notice it and honestly doesn’t bother me, just have to change with the equipment you’re using I guess. I think it helps that in the last 5 years or so I tend to carry a single knife for a good stretch of time with the occasional change up, pretty much been carrying Shiro solidly for the last couple of years though!

Congratulations on another addition, you guys are turning me onto getting a purple color way at some point!
 
Jsega51 said:
DocJekl DocJekl I can carry my F3 (pre “NS) and it takes me a bit to get used to how light the detent is but I quickly adapt and after a week I don’t even notice it and honestly doesn’t bother me, just have to change with the equipment you’re using I guess. I think it helps that in the last 5 years or so I tend to carry a single knife for a good stretch of time with the occasional change up, pretty much been carrying Shiro solidly for the last couple of years though!

Congratulations on another addition, you guys are turning me onto getting a purple color way at some point!
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See, I don't have to get used to it at all. It's not as crisp as the others, but it's still satisfying, and it still feels natural opening it to me. It's just not tight enough that it can't fail - it can fail to deploy, but only if I try hard to fail.

I've been carrying a Shiro solid since around Xmas I think. Also often carry my CRK Inkosi from KnifeArt with it as well. Those and my Benchmade Shootout could be my only 3 users, based on how often I EDC them.
 
DocJekl said:
See, I don't have to get used to it at all. It's not as crisp as the others, but it's still satisfying, and it still feels natural opening it to me. It's just not tight enough that it can't fail - it can fail to deploy, but only if I try hard to fail.

I've been carrying a Shiro solid since around Xmas I think. Also often carry my CRK Inkosi from KnifeArt with it as well. Those and my Benchmade Shootout could be my only 3 users, based on how often I EDC them.
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You got a lot of knives too so always switching it up must be quite an experience! I need to dig a CRK back out to have on hand now that you mention it…
 
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Just picked up this beauty a little while back! I owned a Quantum Gen 2 a while back but sold it after I realized I wasn't comfortable with carrying $1100 in my pocket. Managed to get this one for a fair sight cheaper. Out of curiosity, anyone know how many of these R20s were made? (if there was nay kind of set number)

Speaking of the bearings, has anyone tried out the ceramic and zirconium bearing "upgrades" you can get? I have a set coming in for grins and giggles.
 
Ilikesharpstuff said:
I can't afford it right now, but I wish I didn't know how good the 2024 Spring CCKS knives were...this might be my favorite F95 ever.

***Not my pic, taken from the exchange where it can be yours for $1900***
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I agree. I love the color way but I don’t like the extra stuff. Not sure what folks do with these chips or coins. I just see it extra stuff that accumulates in drawers.
 
Good Evening,
So what do y'all think of the new colored Stellars available on Recon and 'zilla? I like the blue anodized but I am holding out for a different colored micarta or CF F3. I really like my "Carolina Blue" F3 and look forward to seeing what they do with future models.
 
Liteblade said:
Good Evening,
So what do y'all think of the new colored Stellars available on Recon and 'zilla? I like the blue anodized but I am holding out for a different colored micarta or CF F3. I really like my "Carolina Blue" F3 and look forward to seeing what they do with future models.
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It’s become my favorite Shiro model so I’m stoked they are leaning into it and coming out with multiple versions. I love my PJ version so haven’t bought another one… yet
 
Hi gentlemen, I have joined the ranks of the multiple-Shirogorov owner! Having bought a brand new F3 first, then getting this like-new F3 NS in the mail today, I am finally happy and will never need to buy another knife again (haha). Seriously though, the F3 NS M390 rolls out the garage with the smoothest flip feel ever, I'm quite impressed. The technology of caged ball bearings is definitely one of the best improvements of modern folding knives.
Really liking the carbon fiber on this one!
Good day kind sirs, and thanks for looking.
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