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The "Gunflint" Bowie
- Thread starter Karl B. Andersen
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2007
- Messages
- 2,401
Looks good Karl.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2007
- Messages
- 382
This is really enjoyable Karl. I look forward to seeing this one in Troy.
I enjoy looking a little deeper into WIPs and looking at how other things are done. I really like your effectiveness in using your shop space by putting much of your equipment on wheels.
Brian
I enjoy looking a little deeper into WIPs and looking at how other things are done. I really like your effectiveness in using your shop space by putting much of your equipment on wheels.
Brian
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2009
- Messages
- 1,564
This is great Karl. I like the close up shot of the centerline and the clip, right down the middle:thumbup:
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2003
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- 5,686
A little progress today.
I've got to be honest here. This was the first knife - I think - that I've made from my 5160 this year. Seems like all I've made has either been Damascus of some sort, 1095, W1 or W2.
But I was reminded QUICKLY! of what I had in store.
For those who have never seen the photo, I think it was back in '02 or '03 that I acquired 2400 feet of 1" square 5160 made in 1984 at a mill in Illinois. It was a "special order" run for a manufacturing process for the creation of anhydrous ammonia application knives. After the company ordered the steel and it was delivered, they changed their process and the steel was never used.
I found it, literally 20 years AFTER it was made, stacked up on pallets behind the plant where it was never used.
I got it ALL!
Right after I got it, I sent a chunk off to be analyzed. I have the specs around here somewhere. I remember the metallurgist who did the analysis say, "Wow! That should be some really deep hardening stuff!"
Anyway , earlier on in this thread I mentioned how I was sure that it would harden up under clay, as well as the tang itself simply from air hardening. Well, I forgot just how tough this stuff is.
Once I started to sand it, it was almost like Cru V. If you've ever tried to clean up a Cru V blade, you'll know what I'm talking about.
Anyway, I tried to keep that clayed up spine out of the quench, and I'm sure I did a pretty good job. Even with that, I could still skate a file on the spine!! Insane.
So, after I cleaned up the blade a little, I did a pretty intense draw-back on the spine. And the tang as well, so I could thread it later.
(clean up the ricasso)
(After an intense re-grind and rub job)
(draw back in progress - I keep the cutting edge and about 1/2 the blade submerged to stop the draw-back)
Result
I've got to be honest here. This was the first knife - I think - that I've made from my 5160 this year. Seems like all I've made has either been Damascus of some sort, 1095, W1 or W2.
But I was reminded QUICKLY! of what I had in store.
For those who have never seen the photo, I think it was back in '02 or '03 that I acquired 2400 feet of 1" square 5160 made in 1984 at a mill in Illinois. It was a "special order" run for a manufacturing process for the creation of anhydrous ammonia application knives. After the company ordered the steel and it was delivered, they changed their process and the steel was never used.
I found it, literally 20 years AFTER it was made, stacked up on pallets behind the plant where it was never used.
I got it ALL!
Right after I got it, I sent a chunk off to be analyzed. I have the specs around here somewhere. I remember the metallurgist who did the analysis say, "Wow! That should be some really deep hardening stuff!"
Anyway , earlier on in this thread I mentioned how I was sure that it would harden up under clay, as well as the tang itself simply from air hardening. Well, I forgot just how tough this stuff is.
Once I started to sand it, it was almost like Cru V. If you've ever tried to clean up a Cru V blade, you'll know what I'm talking about.
Anyway, I tried to keep that clayed up spine out of the quench, and I'm sure I did a pretty good job. Even with that, I could still skate a file on the spine!! Insane.
So, after I cleaned up the blade a little, I did a pretty intense draw-back on the spine. And the tang as well, so I could thread it later.
(clean up the ricasso)
(After an intense re-grind and rub job)
(draw back in progress - I keep the cutting edge and about 1/2 the blade submerged to stop the draw-back)
Result
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2003
- Messages
- 5,686
So now it's time to mark and slot that guard.
My ricasso is .262".
My end mill that I used was .123".
So, if I cut a slot .123" wide, I will need .139" more - 1/2 one way and 1/2 the other, or .0695" both directions.
So, here's the guard right off the mill as slotted:
This is slid right onto the knife from the mill:
You can see how she comes to s dead stop right where the radius is on the guard shoulders.
So, we file the top and bottom of the slot to match the guard shoulder radius:
Tap it into place:
(The radius at the top and bottom is the only place on the guard that I touched with a file)
And here's what you get:
My ricasso is .262".
My end mill that I used was .123".
So, if I cut a slot .123" wide, I will need .139" more - 1/2 one way and 1/2 the other, or .0695" both directions.
So, here's the guard right off the mill as slotted:
This is slid right onto the knife from the mill:
You can see how she comes to s dead stop right where the radius is on the guard shoulders.
So, we file the top and bottom of the slot to match the guard shoulder radius:
Tap it into place:
(The radius at the top and bottom is the only place on the guard that I touched with a file)
And here's what you get:
Last edited:
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- Jul 27, 2003
- Messages
- 5,686
Here's where we're headed - tomorrow!
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2003
- Messages
- 5,686
Joe, 8 3/4"+. I didn't want it to be too unwieldy in my pack.
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2006
- Messages
- 15,020
That should get it all done and then some buddy
Ya taking a bow on that trip also ?
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2003
- Messages
- 5,686
Nope - two fishin' poles! 
(It'll be in June right after the Blade Show. But maybe I can pull off a grouse hunting trip in Oct. Then I'll take the bow. One of Chad Holm's)
(It'll be in June right after the Blade Show. But maybe I can pull off a grouse hunting trip in Oct. Then I'll take the bow. One of Chad Holm's)
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2003
- Messages
- 5,686
I'll be in the Clark NX-150.
I do fly fish, just a little rusty. Not many opportunities where I live, and doesn't go well with canoe tripping.
I do fly fish, just a little rusty. Not many opportunities where I live, and doesn't go well with canoe tripping.
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2003
- Messages
- 5,686
Don't tell anybody, but I'm sleeping outside tonight. Gonna be in the 5o's finally.
I got one of these about two months ago and used it the first time in Minnesota about three weeks ago. Unbelievably comfortable.
I got one of these about two months ago and used it the first time in Minnesota about three weeks ago. Unbelievably comfortable.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
Awesome thread Karl!
We both know how much of a PITA it can be to do the tripod thing. But then again, for certain shots it seems easier than telling someone else holding the camera, "No, I want XYZ in the shot, not ABC!!!"
I bring my kiln up and soak at temp too, but had never thought to add the heavy plate in the floor... GREAT IDEA!
I really like how you have your shop set up, looks comfortable AND efficient. Two things that are not so easy to bring together.
Love that 5160 too... awesome!
BTW- Where did you get that disc sander? Looks like some pics I saw of Michael Kanter's disc set-ups.
We both know how much of a PITA it can be to do the tripod thing. But then again, for certain shots it seems easier than telling someone else holding the camera, "No, I want XYZ in the shot, not ABC!!!"
I bring my kiln up and soak at temp too, but had never thought to add the heavy plate in the floor... GREAT IDEA!
I really like how you have your shop set up, looks comfortable AND efficient. Two things that are not so easy to bring together.
Love that 5160 too... awesome!
BTW- Where did you get that disc sander? Looks like some pics I saw of Michael Kanter's disc set-ups.