The idiot's guide to the AR-15 rifle (or an idiot building one)

I dont have a problem with polymers. To me, the vtac just didnt feel like a polymer on the same level as say Nitrolon in a G2, the poylmer used in my Magpul MOE gear, or the frame of my HK USP.

Btw, I ordered the Vltor SG-M and plan on mounting it at the 9 o clock (non ejection port) side.
 
I dont have a problem with polymers. To me, the vtac just didnt feel like a polymer on the same level as say Nitrolon in a G2, the poylmer used in my Magpul MOE gear, or the frame of my HK USP.

Btw, I ordered the Vltor SG-M and plan on mounting it at the 9 o clock (non ejection port) side.

I hope the 9 o'clock mount works out for you!

If you ever want to try a VTAC mount, let me know. I think I might have an extra around here somewhere.
 
a buddy gave me a surefire G2, i was dreading spending the money for a pressure switch, but i think i'll try it out without a switch first. i'm planning on mounting it at the 10 o'clock position, we'll see if my fingers are long enough to operate it... still have to get an upper to put it on.
 
I hate tape switches! They are expensive, they get snagged on things, and they are relatively fragile.

Stick with the regular tailcap or get a clicky like the Z48/49.

The 10 o'clock position is not hard to reach all. It is a great place to mount a light. It works with or without a vertical grip.
 
Thanks matthew. If 9 o clock doesnt work well for me, I might take you up on your offer. Another place I thought of might be by mounting it on top of my handguard and letting it offset to the side. I guess what would be the 10 o clock. However the mount I ordered wont do that. We'll have to see!
 
I hate tape switches! They are expensive, they get snagged on things, and they are relatively fragile.

+1! the only tape switches i have are on the M500 rifle and carbine handguards and the 823F on the M590A1. no exposed wires on those.
 
Heres an updated picture:

Fenix TK10 225L flashlight
Vltor SM-CK mount
Magpul BAD lever
Badger Tactical charging handle latch

Next up is sling...

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got my BCG and charging handle in today! can't wait 'til i have the upper to stick 'em in... hopefully by the end of july...

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just a midlength handguard, BUIS, forward grip, light mount, sling and sling plate, and a couple sections of rail, and i'll have her finished. gotta get some mags too...
 
i've got a handful of uppers that i need to assemble, so i've gotta get a vice mounted up out in the garage. haven't had one since i moved. also have an A3 flat top to swap out with one of the A2s on a completed rifle.

my cabinet of gun parts in the garage is stuffed with uppers, but i need some BCGs and HGs, along with some LPKs..

eventually, but this "recuperating" stuff sucks. can't work right now, so paying for toys is kinda tough.
 
Feels super good to finally have her done and broken in. I finally have a reliable battle rifle that I can trust.

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Great thread guys! I really enjoyed reading through it. For those of you whom haven't seen my thread in the Gadget and Gear section, I too, am in the process of getting an AR.

We (my father, brother, and myself) have decided on the DDm4v3...and through posts in my thread and reading this I decided to get an Aimpoint. I just don't know which one!
 
Here's my BCM build. The only thing that I'm thinking about adding is a 3x magnifier in a LaRue flip-mount.





Upper: BCM 16" midlength with BCM BCG, DD Omega 9.0 w/XTM panels, Aimpoint T-1 on a LaRue LT-660, MBUS rear, BCM Mod 4 Charging Handle, Magpul AFG and Streamlight TLR-1. The upper & TLR-1 were finished with Brownells AlumaHyde II in "coyote".

Lower: CMMG lower, w/CMT Stag LPK (I replaced the trigger with a Colt), BCM milspec Receiver Extension, Magpul ACS stock, MOE Pistol Grip & Magpul Enhanced Trigger Guard & BAD lever. Next month I hope to swap the lower out for a BCM lower.

I have about 1500 rounds through it and from day 1 it has been flawless.
 
Here's my BCM build. The only thing that I'm thinking about adding is a 3x magnifier in a LaRue flip-mount.





Upper: BCM 16" midlength with BCM BCG, DD Omega 9.0 w/XTM panels, Aimpoint T-1 on a LaRue LT-660, MBUS rear, BCM Mod 4 Charging Handle, Magpul AFG and Streamlight TLR-1. The upper & TLR-1 were finished with Brownells AlumaHyde II in "coyote".

Lower: CMMG lower, w/CMT Stag LPK (I replaced the trigger with a Colt), BCM milspec Receiver Extension, Magpul ACS stock, MOE Pistol Grip & Magpul Enhanced Trigger Guard & BAD lever. Next month I hope to swap the lower out for a BCM lower.

I have about 1500 rounds through it and from day 1 it has been flawless.

sweetness. the bcm gunfighter charging handle is the best upgrade i've ever done. the acs stock is a close second.
 
Picked up a Surefire G2 LED in a trade and got to play around with it in an abandoned industrial building at work. Really nice light. And, since this is an idiot's guide........

I picked up a Troy fixed rear battlesight. I mounted it nice and secure with blue loctite, or so I thought, drove the hour + to the local range and it worked itself loose w/in 20 rounds. GGGAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH! Last night I degreased all relevant parts with some denat alcohol, using a bigger gob of loctite, and remounted it by cranking on the set screw like a teenage boy who just found a hidden stash of Playboy mags, and jamming it forward against the rail plateau. Hopefully all is well. If that works, and I get a chance to order the MOE and VLTOR stuff to mount the light, I should have some nice progress pics.

Luckily at the range, after seeing how pissed off I was, my buddy lent me his sweet pre-ban AK47 (forgot the manufacturer's name, but it was D-something).
 
I picked up a Troy fixed rear battlesight. I mounted it nice and secure with blue loctite, or so I thought, drove the hour + to the local range and it worked itself loose w/in 20 rounds.

yeah, it happened to me too - the troy front sight and the grip screw. now i use loctite and put witness mark on every screw.

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Paint pens are your friend! Witness mark everything you can.

Loc-tite is your BEST friend but it must be used correctly and liberally. You have to let it dry on the threads for a bit before you screw everything back together. Use lots of it. If you loosen the screw, reapply it before you tighten it down again.
 
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