The idiot's guide to the AR-15 rifle (or an idiot building one)

Here's my AR I built a few years ago (pictured with my Springer M1A standard).

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:D
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Fake auto mark.
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ETA: Nice start Shotgunner. This is a cool thread idea.
 
No idea...electronic devices are more likely to have a failure than an optic that doesn't have high tech guts to worry about.

They are pretty tough. Much tougher than most optics. There aren't multiple lenses that have to stay in alignment and focused. There is a steel cover over the actual lens, which keeps it from getting knocked around. The lens is also pretty shatter resistant. You can also co witness them, so if yours does for some reason crap out, you don't even have to adjust your aim or anything. Your sights are already on target.

They sure are stupid fast to use too. The first time I played with one, it seemed almost magical.

Another plus is you don't get tunnel vision. Looking through even a short, low power combat scope, you limit your field of view. I have not had a chance to do any speed target acquisition though the ACOG scopes. But they are still a tube with knobs (not to mention the flare of the tube), which blocks some vision.

When aiming the holo sights, you really only have the thin metal hood around the lens. Which seems less of a vision blocker. It feels a lot like a hooded front site (like that found on MP-5, or SKS, Marlin, etc, which I really like).

A lot of military guys out using them.

That said, the ACOG offers other advantages, like a bit of magnification for better long range shooting.

The holosight can be magnified, with a quick detach (if you mount it on a quick lever release) or you can just unscrew the tube.



Of course, I have never been shot at in anger (just stupidity.....but that is a different story).
 
mine was around $700 at the time i did everything that was the rifle only though use the best parts in your gun and it will last forever
 
Surefire? or gemtech? That's awesome man, dang now I definitely need to get in some range time you got my itch acting up again.

YHM (Yankee Hill Manufacturing). Both of my suppressors are from them. Very good cans for the money. My next 556 can will be something a little lighter weight though. THat ones stainless steel and built like a tank, but I knew it was going to see a lot of rounds and abuse by running it on my 10.5" rifle.

I have a couple other NFA toys I cant live without though before I get another can.

ETA: I always wanted one of the Zombie Hunter lowers, thats awsome.
 
I recently acquired the Magpul Dynamics Art of the Tactical Carbine, and it made me want to build my own AR. Just ordered a lower parts kit earlier this morning.
 
I recently acquired the Magpul Dynamics Art of the Tactical Carbine, and it made me want to build my own AR. Just ordered a lower parts kit earlier this morning.

Wait until you watch AOTTC 2 and the Art of the Tactical Handgun to be released Feb. 1. :D
 
Here are some of mine and a few that I have built over the years...

This is a DM type rig.
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This is my range pig. This thing has seen a ton of rounds. Previous to this rig, I built a lot of ARs with budget parts (RRA, Bushmaster, CMMG, etc) and always had problems of some kind. This was my first no compromise build and it has paid off with complete reliability through just short of 5000 rounds.
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This is a lightweight build. Even with all the goodies, it clocks at under 8 pounds.
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This is the one I built for my wife. It doesn't look like this anymore, but I don't have recent pics. Now it has a lighweight profile middy barrel and standard handguards to really keep the weight down. She is hell on wheels with an AR.
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I have a few others that I don't have pics of right now. I have never regretted saving longer to use true top tier parts from manufacturers like Daniel Defense, BCM, Colt, and Sabre Defense.
 
I'm planning on a 16" flattop, 1in9 twist chrome lined, M4 feedramp with at least one rail for my light.

That's a good setup. I like that you're holding out for better parts. You get what you pay for.
If you mount your light high left on the hand gaurds, I would suggest a small rail at the bottom of the guard for bipod or vertical grip. Very handy and unobtrusive when not in use.
 
Wait until you watch AOTTC 2 and the Art of the Tactical Handgun to be released Feb. 1. :D

yIKES. I just watched the trailers on youtube, and they look SICK. Makes me want to go to the range right now. Planning on going with parents today to shoot the rental .22lr Colt. Don't know anything else about it though, heh.

Sorry for a mini-hijack, but I just had some burning noob questions. Have been perusing the AR-15.com forums for the past 2 hours.

I know Shotgunner says Del-Ton and Rock River lowers are good, but what about other lowers? I heard that as long as it is forged, any lower is OK. What is this business about billet lowers.

Noveske is priced so high >_< What are some good manufacturers of uppers? DD? but they are so pretty. I'm thinking of just finding an upper, but putting a Daniels Defense Omega 7 rail system on there. Would that work?
 
For anyone considering building an AR, please take some time to research and familiarize yourself with this chart put together by Rob S.: http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pwswheghNQsEuEhjFwPrgTA&gid=5

Sadly, gun shops are typically very poor places to get information on ARs. Parts are not parts. If someone says something like "Brand X is just as good as Brand Y and costs half as much." you can safely stop listening to them. There are reasons why some items cost a lot. That doesn't mean to have to buy the most expensive stuff to get good stuff.

As people who appreciate the little (and sometimes big) differences that make RAT Cutlery knives better than other knives that cost less (and often knives that cost more), you should take some time to learn what makes some AR components better than others. Things like intense QC, HP and MP testing, better alloys, taper pins, properly sized gas ports, H buffers, and proper springs cost more but in the end make for a better product.

In my experience, the lower that you use make almost no difference as long as it is in spec (yes, I have had out of spec cheap lowers).

Quality lower parts kits are hard to find. It used to be that you could get LMT parts kits that were great. Colt kits are pretty much the best but will run about $200. G&R makes a great lower parts kit but you have to buy a lower from them to get one. Until recently we were stuck with CMT or RRA which both leave a bit to be desired. I had better luck with the CMT parts kits. Now Daniel Defense has filled the niche for an affordable LPK. They can be had for $70ish and it is a TOP QUALITY kit with every metal part in the kit made right there at DD. You can avoid all sorts of breakage and tolerance stacking issues by sticking with a good LPK.

The upper is probably the most important place for you to not skimp. Most of what makes an AR reliable happens here. The main things you want to look for is that your bolt carrier group is MP tested, shot peened, and properly staked. If a manufacturer takes to the time to do all that, their BCGs are good to go. Look for a barrel that is HP tested and MP tested. MP testing is of less value on barrels unless they HP tested first (CMMG used to MP test only which is kind of misleading, I am not sure if this is still the case). These things and others are explained in the chart I linked to above.

I will no longer consider barrels with twists slower than 1 in 8" (no more 1 in 9" barrels for me). The versatility of the 1 in 7" and 1 in 8" barrels is excellent. Both will handle everything from 55gr on up to heavier projectiles like 75gr and 77gr. Remember, it is not the weight that dictates what twist you need, but rather the overall length of the projectile. Heavier projectiles are generally longer projectiles so it is usually easier to refer to them by weight rather than talking in hundredths and thousandths of inches.

I think the least expensive way to get most of the features above, is to just buy a complete Daniel Defense rifle or upper (if you already have a lower built). They can be had quite inexpensively if you know where to shop.

I would also point out that due to some of the nuances of the direct impingement gas system, a thousand slow fire rounds from a target bench may not give you the whole picture in terms of reliability. I had Bushmasters and Rock Rivers that would shoot great from the bench or when I was piddling around on the range. Taking your carbine to a high volume training class will tell the whole story. When hot gas is being dumped quickly into the chamber and things start getting hot, things get harry and sometimes things break. Training is so valuable because it tells you if your rifle works, if your gear works, and most importantly, if you work.

I don't mean to step on the toes of those who own any of the brands that I have listed in a somewhat negative light. I will say that I can back up what I have written here with a fair amount of time and experience invested in this stuff. There are Bushmasters (or RRA, or Delton, or whatever) that serve their owners very well. But it is more of a crap shoot. There really is no such thing as a free lunch anymore.

I could go on and on about more features that you may want to look for but I fear I am already getting too long winded. If I get a few moments later, I may type up some off my experiences with optics (hint: there are reasons that I own 7 Aimpoints). The chart really is a good resource so I suggest starting there.
 
To echo the post above, this guy's put together a comparison guide for shoppers who are buying complete rifles, and he keeps it updated:

http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=6642

His chart explains the desirable features of a quality AR, and which manufacturers have which features. Here's the chart:

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pwswheghNQsEuEhjFwPrgTA&gid=5

According to that chart, one of the better bargains ("bang for the buck" - ouch) is CMMG. CMMG has been running something lately on their site called the "bargain bin" that might be worth looking into.

BTW, it would be nice if someone actually posted "An Idiot's Guide to Building an AR."
 
The direct gas system is more accurate in terms of competition shooting, but the piston is much more reliable since there's no carbon being shot back into the chamber. The gas system is also a cheaper way to go on a build. The amount of carbon those things generate is amazing, I've cleaned my life's worth in the Corps., of course now that I'm out they're going to a pistion set up. It'll be neat to see the progress of your build on the thread. If you can pull it in at about $1000 that'll be a damn good price. Build on brother!
 
The DI system gets a bad rap but people like Pat Rogers are constantly proving that with proper care and quality components they can go for 14,000+ (yes 14,000+) rounds with out cleaning and without stoppages, even in pretty hard use. The one carbine I can remember off the top of my head was a Colt 6940. Last I heard it was at 14,000 rounds with no cleaning and no stoppages. Just keep adding oil to correct places. ARs need to be run wet!

The piston systems have upsides but they bring significant downsides as well. First is that no one has truly solved the "carrier tilt" issues with piston ARs. This will lead to increased wear and tear over time and potential reliability issues. Also, the piston system, unless done very well, will cause premature unlocking of the bolt which can be hard on the bolt lugs. A properly tuned DI system (ie a DI system with proper dwell time) will unlock in such a way that much of the stress on the lugs is avoided.

I am not sure that one is so much better than the other. You are just trading one set of issues for another. I know that I rarely clean my DI guns anymore, I just keep adding oil and only clean at around the 3000-4000 round mark. They run fine. In fact, for years, I was probably doing more harm than good by over cleaning.

For me, the AR is a DI gun. The original is fine. If I want a piston gun, there are plenty of other choices that were originally designed to be piston guns (SCAR, Masada soon, XCR, SIG, etc).

Although, can be especially nice on short barreled ARs that are suppressed.
 
.....I think the least expensive way to get most of the features above, is to just buy a complete Daniel Defense rifle or upper (if you already have a lower built). They can be had quite inexpensively if you know where to shop......

More info would be mucho appreciato.:D
 
Guys looking for uppers should also look at BravoCompanyUSA.com, I know these can be had at good prices and have been run and loved by many great shooters I respect.
 
Guys thanks for the links to the comparisons. Lot of good info there for sure.

Got my rifle sighted in open sights today in just a hand full of rounds. Put 40 more rounds through it with absolutely no problems. Weather sucks here today with rain on and off so that's all I did today.

Questions on magazines. Is there any particular brands of magazines to stay clear of? Are the polymer ones any better than the metal ones or just different? 20 or 30 round mags are there any difference in reliability? I've a handfull of the old 20 round Colt mags and they're great, when I was in the service we were switching over from the 20 round mags to the 30 round mags and we had more feed problems with the 30's is why I ask.
 
Today's plastic mags are excellent. PMAGs, Lancer L5s, and TangoDown ARC mags are all great. Flip a coin. I have lots of PMAGs but the others are great mags.

When it comes to the aluminum mags, they work great too. Just stick with TRUE mil-spec manufacturers - like Colt, DSG, D&H, Bravo Company to name a few. I generally avoid C-Products. I had good luck with their early mags but lately their quality has been spotty. I do like to replace the followers with Magpul (or buy the mags that already have them installed). They can typically be picked up for less than $10 a piece, brand new, with the MagPul followers already installed.
 
Daniel Defense and cheap generally don't go in the same sentence. They do make good stuff though.

I built my last lower and put a complete Stag upper on it. 1 in 9, chome lined M4 upper for $500 new. That price included a Midwest Industries BUIS. Not a bad deal for an upper of that quality. That's the only 1 in 9 AR I have, I prefer 1 in 7 twist, but since 90% of what I shoot is under 62 grain, the 9 works just fine.

PENENPITSU, as far as lowers go, most of them are pretty good. There are more brands out there than I could name. Billet is a lot of hype IMO.
 
Thanks for the update Shotty. As you know I'm also saving up for an AR, Hope you dont mind but I thought I'd share my current plan...

Well originally my plan was to get a Daniel Defense upper from bravocompany that they had on sale for $499. But they aren't selling them for that price anymore. So I'm pretty set on buying a whole rifle as Ive been looking around and have found some pretty good deals on two certain rifles.

I've found Stag Arms Model 2 rifles for $800 up on gunbroker, and all reviews and youtube videos I've watched have really impressed me. If I'm correct, Stag makes the S&W M&P rifles as well. anyways heres details on it: http://www.stagarms.com/product_info.php?cPath=13_22&products_id=206

Another option is a complete Daniel Defense DD-XV I've found on gunbroker for $949. Friend of mine has been keeping track of these and said the dealer keeps selling them constantly for that price. Hopefully by the time I'm ready to buy he's still got em. http://www.danieldefense.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=149

As far as accessories go:

Eotech 512- $399

Fenix TK10, remote switch, rail mount- around $105 (Also lots of GREAT reviews on this fenix light. I love surefire and know how bombproof they are, but I dont want to spend the $. Reviews state that this light is also very very tough and with a better LED than surefire.)

Magpul Pmags- $14.20 x3-4

And I've found a place called apextac.com that sells "replica" quad rails of high end makers like Daniel Defense, Troy Industries, etc.. for pretty dang cheap. I'm a little skeptical but they are appealing for the price. For example:

Daniel Defense "replica" LITE 7.0 free float rail: $68.00 (http://www.apextac.com/catalog/item/6540836/6664298.htm)

Tango Down "style" QD MK46 verticle Grip- $22.00 (http://www.apextac.com/catalog/item/6540837/6864553.htm)

Also found some good reviewed quad rails at CTD... such as: http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ARR390-7.html (59.97)

Right now I'm looking at about $1440 (If I go with the Stag)

Of course I'm shooting right now for about $900 for the rifle, rail, and vertical grip. I'll keep saving for the rest over a while.

Anyways, keep going with yours and I'll do the same with mine :)
 
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