The plague of S30V and S35VN

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stabman said:
Good choice. :thumbsup:
Love the ergonomics on it.
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shinyedges said:
You just recently said it took you 2 hours on a belt sander to reprofile/sharpen a blade in s30v... now you're the cornerstone for sharpening information. Fantastic.
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So one bad experience means I clearly cannot know a thing about knives? I'm sorry to offend you, God of sharp edges and all things knife related.

On a non-sarcastic note, I sat down today and did what I thought would take a very long time, I reprofiled Ferrum Forge Falcon from around 50° inclusive (I feared the steel would be far too tough to put a good edge on when I first sharpened it) to around 30° inclusive, and it took me about 15 bloody minutes. I've had simple carbon steels take longer to work than that. Needless to say, I'm pretty floored at how unbelievably quick and easy what can easily be a tough job became. S35VN might become kinda okay in my book if this is what I can expect out of it.
 
S30V and S35VN are solid steels, real work horses, they aren't as sexy as M390 or as exotic as Maxamet or as tough as 1095 but they have a great combination of attributes at a great price and widley available from $70 knives to $900 customs.

The difficulty Sharpening is way overblown, alot of people should review their technique if having such a horrible time.
Should take only a few minutes, not hours
 
Gaston444 said:
Yeah, it's a "wire edge" that happens when the S30V steel (on a $1700 custom) meets any kind of wood, and is so ridiculously sub-par that the entire thing rolls from a handful of hit at 20 dps... It never rolled further though, so it did remain quite useable, just to point out that I am not completely overstating things...

Note how the intensity of the grabbing varies all across the affected area (and the gap between two affected area, which I deliberately left clear of hits as a reference): A wire edge from sharpening would not have these variations within the affected area. And what a coincidence that the apex micro-rolled where I chose to hit wood with it, but nowhere else, right?

Feel free to think sharpening caused this, having not worked on this $1700 knife for twenty months, over hundreds of tests, to try to STOP it from doing this. Just looking at one picture makes you know better?

Try to think about this logically: Do you think you know better than me how this knife behaved, when I tried for 20 months to have this $1700 investment stop failing? This crud is still my favourite knife design of all times: It took something truly abysmal for me to actually sell it, compared to so many others inferior designs that succeeded (as long as they weren't in any kind of CPM steel)...

Even 5160 Carbon steel did much better, as long as it was painted. Unless you always stay home when it rains of course...

Gaston
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Gaston do you think we all do not use our knives and so only imagine we all won't get results like you?

Or do you think we are using our knives and getting the same results as you and just lying to you about the results we are getting.

How would we all know to lie to you? We would have to all talk to eachother to knows that was the plan.

So what's up for real, how do you explain us all getting different results from you?
 
S30V Does hold a good edge and has good stainless properties. It does not take long to sharpen using the right stones. To me it's only malady is it is prone to have burrs at the end of sharpening. Which require some effort to remove. I don't take the steel to a zillion grit, I usually stop
at 3-400 grit. I find really no problem w/ it. DM
 
DeadboxHero said:
The difficulty Sharpening is way overblown, alot of people should review their technique if having such a horrible time.
Should take only a few minutes, not hours
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It may take hours when you profile the edge by hand and have to take a bunch of metal off to even out the edge because they took too much metal off at the base or the tip at the factory. A proper reprofiling by hand so that it is one continuous edge takes time. I only have to do that once and after that sharpening only takes a few minutes. I suppose I could use a micron belt on my sander to cut time, but the point of doing it by hand is so it matches the hand method.

I use the sandpaper method BTW, so I have a convex edge.
 
Lapedog said:
Gaston do you think we all do not use our knives and so only imagine we all won't get results like you?

Or do you think we are using our knives and getting the same results as you and just lying to you about the results we are getting.

How would we all know to lie to you? We would have to all talk to eachother to knows that was the plan.

So what's up for real, how do you explain us all getting different results from you?
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Stop trying to make sense of what he says. It makes no sense. He's just straight up lying to us, guys. He knows it's not real. He doesn't believe anything he says. He just wants our eyes to bug out of our heads and us to start furiously arguing with him. That's all that's going on there. None of it is real.
 
Jhansenak47 said:
It may take hours when you profile the edge by hand and have to take a bunch of metal off to even out the edge because they took too much metal off at the base or the tip at the factory. A proper reprofiling by hand so that it is one continuous edge takes time. I only have to do that once and after that sharpening only takes a few minutes. I suppose I could use a micron belt on my sander to cut time, but the point of doing it by hand is so it matches the hand method.

I use the sandpaper method BTW, so I have a convex edge.
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Time? Just practice and the right tools for the job.
I think the sandpaper method might be slowing ya down. If I used sandpaper to reprofile I'd die of boredom.
This took minutes to reprofile s110v,
t7MOtqO.jpg



How? Angle consistently, no wasted passes
Moving back and forth doubles the cutting speed, quality abrasive with a renewable surface, keeps cutting. Fluid to float away worn stone and metal filings.

But man, there is a billion ways to do something, if that works for ya it works.

I was just watching videos about guys using cardboard wheels with diamond dust and white rouge to sharpen everything I can't argue that it's wayy faster then dealing with Sharpening stones, But its not for me.
To each there own
 
stabman said:
Had to defrost the freezer in the fridge at the lab.
Too much ice...didn't thaw fully overnight.
So, I used the Spyderco Tuff to gouge and pry the rest out of there. :thumbsup:

y9x8GNJ.jpg


Look at all that ice...

UCFmUnk.jpg


Edge and tip was still fine, despite it being made of "inferior" CPM 3V steel. ;)

And, since I was doing this in a fully accredited organic chemistry lab, it also counts as a scientific test. :D
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is that a 180 degree rolled loaded apex, i see on that cpm steel? good thing ya didnt chop with it.:)
 
halden.doerge said:
Stop trying to make sense of what he says. It makes no sense. He's just straight up lying to us, guys. He knows it's not real. He doesn't believe anything he says. He just wants our eyes to bug out of our heads and us to start furiously arguing with him. That's all that's going on there. None of it is real.
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I’m starting to veer towards your view in this, but I’m new to posting here.

Those pictures indicate a badly sharpened knife, with a wire edge. It would be quite a feat of trolling to produce those sorts of fragile edges and then do “chopping” and then take photographs.

As I say, you could be right, but I submit that these photos reflect poor maintenance, and the posts reflect an imperfect understanding and garbled regurgitation of the musings of Cliff Stamp. I can’t comment further, and have no wish to do so. There is, as I have recently discovered, a separate area available in which to offload.

However, it is entirely correct to call out foolish nonsense on the open access areas of this website. I guess that is why I’m even bothering.

TL;DR Gaston444 has a unique and controversial view of CPM steels, and I strongly disagree.
 
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