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- Oct 28, 2017
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I’m liking it in full size!I wonder if the crooked river will translate well into a smaller size. i cant imagind the blade having the same beauty. But hopefully it would. I think i would buy one.

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I’m liking it in full size!I wonder if the crooked river will translate well into a smaller size. i cant imagind the blade having the same beauty. But hopefully it would. I think i would buy one.
[...] I do prefer other steels, however, as I'm one of those steel-snobs you hear about.
I don't need super-steels, but I enjoy having them.
I have to admit that I never really looked at it that closely. Over the years of having my woodworking company I have acquired 3 different stationary sanders, one being a 1" Delta many years ago. When the HF didn't work out right away, I dismissed it as "it is the wife's, not mine" and "that's how HF is, hit or miss". Never gave it a second look or second thought. But thinking about what you with it, I will probably take it out (still in the original box!) and try it out with your modifications.
...The little machine worked great for them with the stock belt. Turned out to be a passing fancy, making me thankful I didn't spend a lot on a sander that I would by for the wood shop.
LOL!!! So that's what I have been doing wrong all these years! I was holding the knife between my toes!
Seriously, I have been sharpening on my Delta 1x30 for about 20+ years. I always hand finish. And for me, I never use it on my knives...
...May give the old HF another look. If I take enough pieces off and lay it over like you are describing it might turn out to be a good tool for me. I'll keep your tip in mind and make sure I am wearing my shoes (so I remember to use my hands!) when sharpening/grinding.
May I ask whether you are using the lesser steels and finding your work impeded due to their inferiority, or whether you prefer steels that require less maintenance, which would still be minimal in the case of the steels under discussion?Every production knife manufacturer needs a middle-of-the-road steel to standardise on for the bulk of their offering to cater for the average-Joe out there. It should do many things well: balance between ease of sharpening, corrision resistance, ease of manufacturing, edge holding, toughness, cost. I can see why Spyderco chose VG10/S30V. Mid-techs and customs are another story.
Most forumites are afi’s, and I believe we represent just a tiny fraction of the market.
I've used and sharpened S30V pretty extensively (actually more than even M390 which I am far more fond of), and it does seem to be a very difficult to work steel, granted not like S110V which basically laughed at my DMT XC stone. A reprofile on M390 or Elmax will take me like 2 hours if it is very extreme, but I've had S30V take nearly 2 hours with a belt sander (of course dipping the blade and taking quick breaks to ensure no steel overheating). Taking an S30V blade down about 8° per side took me 6 hours one day because I had to work with with my DMT XC stone. Even taking Elmax back 10°+ didn't take nearly as long (one of those ZT factory edges...). S35VN isn't nearly as bad as S30V, though.
I had kind of heard that in passing and wasn't sure what the full details on it were. Even with light pressure, dipping, and frequent breaks I'm still likely overheating the Apex? I know the steel didn't discolor, which is what I thought was the sign of a burnt HT. I'm honestly not sure.I know you seem to believe that you weren’t overheating it, but I assure you that NO amount of time and patience will prevent you from overheating a knife on that little belt sander with a dull belt. According to Harbor Freight’s website, that machine’s rate of speed is 3,260 sanding feet per minute, or about the same top speed as what many grinders that knifemakers use.
As I can’t seem to convince you otherwise, this will be my last post in this thread regarding this topic, but even the tiniest amount of research should allow you to reach the same conclusion. If you’re thinking that you’ll feel the heat with your hands, it’s far too late for that. You’re talking about the tiniest area at the edge - if you managed to heat up into the primary bevel, you’ve more than roached the edge...
Every production knife manufacturer needs a middle-of-the-road steel to standardise on for the bulk of their offering to cater for the average-Joe out there. It should do many things well: balance between ease of sharpening, corrision resistance, ease of manufacturing, edge holding, toughness, cost. I can see why Spyderco chose VG10/S30V. Mid-techs and customs are another story.
Most forumites are afi’s, and I believe we represent just a tiny fraction of the market.
You have no knowledge about anything.
You continue to prove this post after post.
You are becoming a tiresome blight on the knife world.
CPM 154 after 5-10 chops, 18-20 dps:
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CPM 3V after 10-15 chops, factory 20 dps edge:
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Then 10-15 chops in another separate spot:
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S30V after less than 10 chops at 20 dps:
![]()
5160 at 15 dps with a 20 dps micro bevel (about the minimum acceptable steel in performance), 35 chops:
![]()
All CPM steels behaved the exact same way for me.
And please, if you think the whitish line/spots is made of actual visible curled metal, don't entertain us with your knowledge...
Gaston
CPM 154 after 5-10 chops, 18-20 dps:
![]()
CPM 3V after 10-15 chops, factory 20 dps edge:
![]()
Then 10-15 chops in another separate spot:
![]()
S30V after less than 10 chops at 20 dps:
![]()
5160 at 15 dps with a 20 dps micro bevel (about the minimum acceptable steel in performance), 35 chops:
![]()
All CPM steels behaved the exact same way for me.
And please, if you think the whitish line/spots is made of actual visible curled metal, don't entertain us with your knowledge...
Gaston
Gaston that is a wire edge. It was not properly removed, so the edge will look like it sustained a lot of rolling, but in reality it is just that part on the very edge that needs removed properly and the steels will perform just fine.
Notice how the "rolling" is along the entire length of the edge? That's not from the chopping, that's from sharpening.
Even 5160 Carbon steel did much better, as long as it was painted. Unless you always stay home when it rains of course...
Gasbag