The plague of S30V and S35VN

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I have quite a few knives in S30V and S35VN. The S35 sharpens easier than the S30. The edge retention is about the same, both very good and the only problem I ever had was with S30, I was cutting up a cardboard box (how appropriate) with my Yojimbo 2 and for some reason it chipped. It was a minor chip near the front edge of the knife otherwise I have not had any problems with it. To me both are solid performers as daily carry knives.
 
I think because most of the better production manufacturers have started to use S30 & S35 the price of the material has come down and has made it more affordable for the manufacturers and in turn use it on more EDC knives. Keep in mind that not long ago you saw mostly Aus8, 440C Cpm154 and a host of other mediocre steels. It has become the go to steel's and as far as I am concerned that is a good thing.
For anyone wanting better steel's most of these manufacturers make their popular knives in a host of other Supersteels. I am much happier having access to many base models in these steels and don't forget that S30 & S35 are considered lower end Supersteels. Keep in mind that some very high end companies are using these steels with great success.
 
You just recently said it took you 2 hours on a belt sander to reprofile/sharpen a blade in s30v... now you're the cornerstone for sharpening information. Fantastic.
dkb45 said:
Gaston unless you have the sloppiest and most erratic chopping method, you literally can't get every millimeter of the edge to roll. That is a wire edge off a pass on a stone or belt. It is NOT from chopping. I'm not stupid.
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Guys, he (Gastown) doesn't actually believe anything he's saying. He just wants to get these rises out if us. It's what trolls do. None of it is real. At all.
 
Gaston444 said:
Yeah, it's a "wire edge" that happens when the S30V steel (on a $1700 custom) meets any kind of wood, and is so ridiculously sub-par that the entire thing rolls from a handful of hit at 20 dps... It never rolled further though, so it did remain quite useable, just to point out that I am not completely overstating things...

Note how the intensity of the grabbing varies all across the affected area (and the gap between two affected area, which I deliberately left clear of hits as a reference): A wire edge from sharpening would not have these variations within the affected area. And what a coincidence that the apex micro-rolled where I chose to hit wood with it, but nowhere else, right?

Feel free to think sharpening caused this, having not worked on this $1700 knife for twenty months, over hundreds of tests, to try to STOP it from doing this. Just looking at one picture makes you know better?

Try to think about this logically: Do you think you know better than me how this knife behaved, when I tried for 20 months to have this $1700 investment stop failing? This crud is still my favourite knife design of all times: It took something truly abysmal for me to actually sell it, compared to so many others inferior designs that succeeded (as long as they weren't in any kind of CPM steel)...

Even 5160 Carbon steel did much better, as long as it was painted. Unless you always stay home when it rains of course...

Gaston
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Why would you chop anything with a $1700 knife. Those knives are not really made to be carried or abused unless you are a millionaire who doesn't really care or have respect for such a knife.
 
Gaston444 said:
Even 5160 Carbon steel did much better, as long as it was painted. Unless you always stay home when it rains of course...
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The edge isn't painted, only the blade face is painted. The old Marbles were not painted and worked just fine with a patina providing passivation. It is possible to rust the edge dull, but I am pretty sure you are just trolling.

emjay4248 said:
I think because most of the better production manufacturers have started to use S30 & S35 the price of the material has come down and has made it more affordable for the manufacturers and in turn use it on more EDC knives. Keep in mind that not long ago you saw mostly Aus8, 440C Cpm154 and a host of other mediocre steels. It has become the go to steel's and as far as I am concerned that is a good thing.
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Do you mean 154cm? The powder steel version CPM154 hasn't been as common and IMO is not mediocre.
 
Had to defrost the freezer in the fridge at the lab.
Too much ice...didn't thaw fully overnight.
So, I used the Spyderco Tuff to gouge and pry the rest out of there. :thumbsup:

y9x8GNJ.jpg


Look at all that ice...

UCFmUnk.jpg


Edge and tip was still fine, despite it being made of "inferior" CPM 3V steel. ;)

And, since I was doing this in a fully accredited organic chemistry lab, it also counts as a scientific test. :D
 
stabman said:
Had to defrost the freezer in the fridge at the lab.
Too much ice...didn't thaw fully overnight.
So, I used the Spyderco Tuff to gouge and pry the rest out of there. :thumbsup:

y9x8GNJ.jpg


Look at all that ice...

UCFmUnk.jpg


Edge and tip was still fine, despite it being made of "inferior" CPM 3V steel. ;)

And, since I was doing this in a fully accredited organic chemistry lab, it also counts as a scientific test. :D
Click to expand...
I love that knife. Just switched from a CRK to the Tuff as edc for the day.:)
 
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