The " Roosters " are crowing for the " Farmers"

Does anyone have an Top down views that show how the blades are nested? I'm in process of building one. I am curious how much offset grinding is done on the main blade vs the secondary. Is crinking always necessary, or is offset grinding enough?
Here’s how mine looks. Seems that most of the clearance issues on this one are solved by an angled grind on the main blade (doesn’t seem to be krinked) and a catchbit on the other end.
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Will your farmers jack incorporate a catch-bit? Either way, no crinking of either blade, offset grinding will do the trick. I would offset both main and secondary. With no catch-bit both need to be offset ground. With catch-bit its possible to not offset grind the secondary but it really gets tight without rubbing and then it is even harder to get as much secondary blade in as possible.

In the two farmers jacks that I made as examples show below, they are considerable different in grinds. Both single spring, the stag does not use a catch-bit. Both blades are offset ground which manifests itself with a very deep plunge line on one side.

The ivory example uses a catch-bit and while both blades are "offset" ground it is done much differently. The sides of the blades that face each other have no plunge line at all. The tips of the both blades when ground favor the liner side. Seems confusing a bit but hope it makes sense. I think the grinds that was required on the ivory example was probably the most challenging grinds I had done on any of the multi-blades I built.

Good luck with your build! :)

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Thanks Ken, I hope I can pick your brain during my build. I had two reference knives that Lyle sent me that I've forwarded on to another maker. A Henckel without catchbit and Camillus with catchbit. I used the Henckels for my pattern. The top one with the scale still on it. I am kicking myself I didn't take more pics of the Henckel top down before taking it apart.

I'm planning on offset grinding both blades but the secondary more than the primary, like your first picture.

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Thanks Ken, I hope I can pick your brain during my build. I had two reference knives that Lyle sent me that I've forwarded on to another maker. A Henckel without catchbit and Camillus with catchbit. I used the Henckels for my pattern. The top one with the scale still on it. I am kicking myself I didn't take more pics of the Henckel top down before taking it apart.

I'm planning on offset grinding both blades but the secondary more than the primary, like your first picture.

0kVh4YE.jpg

cqdiRIi.jpg

lmyxfVJ.jpg
Feel free to reach out here or by PM, be happy to help in anyway!

Have you decided on your back spring and tang thickness yet? Looks to be close to 4 inch closed length? Will you be adding a half stop to the master blade or keep true to the original?

I am also curious if you will be flat grinding or hollow grinding , and if hollow what radius?

Looking forward to seeing your progress.
 
" I didn't do any beveling at the front of the bolster or do more traditional 'rat tail' or other fluting. A rat tail has the flute going right over the pin. This one has already been a big challenge for me, I didn't want to add one more thing."
Ash

A challenge he accomplished masterfully. I am honored to have added Ash's fine example of craftsmanship to the Farmers jack family.3.8 inches with unique jigged bone and threaded bolsters.
Many thanks Ash .
 

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A friend of mine ( Paul C ) helped me obtain this fine example of Kroo's example of a farmers jack. At 3 7/8" (GEC size) a lovely example it is.
 

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All,
I wrote a blog article about my recent experience building the Farmer's Jack. The audience is primarily other knifemakers or anyone interested in nuances in the pattern and build from a maker's perspective.

https://ash-handmade-knives.blogspot.com/
https://ash-handmade-knives.blogspot.com/2024/11/experience-building-farmers-jack.html
Ash,
Enjoyed your write up!

I am happy to see you pushing the limits of your skill set when it comes to making these difficult knives.
You took a lot on with this one. Fly cutting nail pulls, mill relieving liners on top of the particulars of a farmer's jack. Kudos to you.

Having collectors like Lyle and Charlie (just to name a few) that are willing to "nudge" knife makers here on BF to build patterns outside of our comfort zones is a real asset to the knife community.
 
Having collectors like Lyle and Charlie (just to name a few) that are willing to "nudge" knife makers here on BF to build patterns outside of our comfort zones is a real asset to the knife community.
Ha Ha!! Special kudos to those makers who were/are willing to tackle a nice Punch!!! 😁 :cool: 👍

Very special blades: Scissors, Corkscrews, In-handle inserts, Tweezers, and Files to name a few more!!😲
 
I knew from research that Schrade had copied their knife and blade design for their S7309F fibestos handled farmers jack from Kunde. The one in this catalog is almost exactly like Schrade's version. That bark loosener blade is one of the coolest blades that any cutler ever ground.

Schrade's version with the Fibestos handles were junk handles . I'm lucky to have this one intact( albeit lacquered over to preserve). Notice this model came with a wharncliffe pruning blade ( same as the Kunde knives with that combination ) , not the standard one Schrade used and also the only production farmers jack not a single spring !Schrade Cut Co S7309F (1).jpgSchrade Cut Co S7309F.jpgSchrade Cut Co S7309F (2).jpgSchrade catalog E supp 1936 S 7309F.jpg
 
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