The Shovel Discussion Thread!

I asked about a custom job, but they are backed up right now. I wanted a former model, but sharpened like the Nato and with a sand blast finish as the Nato has.
Interestingly, he said they are no longer doing the sand blast finish right now. Only on military orders.
:grumpy:
 
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You probably DON'T want the sand blasted finish anyhow. That's asking for rust.
 
Oh. I didn't think of that. Come to think of it the extra sharp Nato looks to have a pointy tip, as shown in the picture and compared to the hollow handled model. That would be more likely to break should light prying of rock or something be needed.
 
For normal digging the standard version should be more than pointy enough. Digging tools need SOME sort of point, but it doesn't need to be like a knife point. :)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
......just take a round file to the interior of the serrations. Then if anything slides up into the slots between the teeth it'll get cut like it was a guthook.
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That's a great idea! But I'd need to do the whole upper half of each serration, too. I'm still thinking 'no serrations' might be best for me.
 
I still think you'll find it won't be too big of an issue, but plain edge is good too! :D
 
I got one!
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Somehow, it's even better than in the picture. The Nato seemed cool for being sharper, with a shorter handle and sheath that allows for tip down carry, though the velcro securing the digging tool negates it's potential for fast drawing it. Without the velcro securing my tool, gravity pulls it out easily enough. Not so with with the CS SF shovel I noticed. For me, it was the hollow handle that did it. The finish is not at all bright, as I thought it might be. Some of the cheap spades are as shiny as chrome. This is not reflective in the least. I may try out a different sheath for this.
It looked awkward to me at first, but holding it in my hand, it feels great. It's not as sharp as I had hoped. The grind lines seem alright, but I was hoping it would be at least as sharp as the SF shovel. I will see what I can do. I may send it to someone to have it made hair shaving sharp. If for no other reason that I like sharp tools. :D
 
Shaving sharp is wasted on a digging tool in my opinion, and will cause the edge to roll or ding if you strike a rock. I suggest trying it out with the edge brought only slightly thinner. I like to keep my shovels about "from-the-factory machete edge" sharp as it's more than sharp enough for dirt and roots, but won't be damaged by impacts. :)
 
How about the Cold Steel 92SF Special Forces Shovel? Anybody use it, know where it's made, or anything about it?
-Bruce
 
Plenty--it's made in Taiwan, and works very well. One of the best compact shovels out there for the money at the moment.
 
No problem. I just wish that they had the step turned in instead of out, but it goes out on the originals too, so I shouldn't complain too much. I'm just a nit-picker when it comes to maximizing performance through design. Materials I'm less picky on as long as they're decent. :p
 
I picked up a few shovels this weekend at garage sales. Here are two of them. What caught my eye on these were the well constructed heavy sockets.

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Both have the sockets closed up on the back.

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One has visible maker's stamp.

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I also found a nice heavy scoop shovel with a long handle and an old digging fork with a full sized handle and forged not welded tines. I've been looking for a fork like this.
 
Nice snags! The Razorback technically just has a closed back to the blade, as the socket is still open. That's the most important of the two to be closed, though! I'll be at my family's camp next weekend and there's an old TrueTemper shovel with a closed back there--I'll need to snap some pics. It's double riveted with an extended socket. Pretty sure the socket is closed, and the handle has factory-made numbered depth marks pressed into the it.
 
I know this ain't a sledge hammer thread but i didn't see one. I just rehandled my first one today. Came out great. Looks better than the one i took out. Sorry for no pics but PB is not letting me upload for some reason. Anyways, i had fun & am pretty proud of how it came out. I used 2 different drill bits to drill out the old one. It had a round metal wedge in it & i was able to (for once in my life) drill exactly through the middle without hitting the sides & reuse it after i put the wooden wedge in it. There was still space on either side but the round wedge took care of that perfectly. Again, sorry for no pics. :D That is all.
 
It can be a pain drilling around those metal wedges. And it's nice to have a fat punch to knock out whatever is left after the drilling. Anyway, congrats on a successful re-hang. And look out - it's addicting.
 
I have a big 3/4" solid brass rod for a punch. It worked excellent & prob was the reason i could reuse it. Thanks.

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PBucket is working again ! Here are a few pics of the finished product. I put 2 layers of innertube close to the head for a little over strike protection. Not sure if it will work or not but i figured something is better than nothing. Glad to have a working sledge again.
 
Nice! I use double-layered bike tube for the same purpose on the handle of my pick mattock. Keeps rocks from chewing it up over time.
 
With Halloween coming up fast, I figured it was time for.... ZOMBIE THREAD! :D

42, you ever make any headway with that shortish, docked-point, D-handle Predator?
 
LOL no I wasn't able to make progress with that--George was WAY busy fulfilling NATO contracts back when I tried contacting him.
 
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