Karoi
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That's the problem with S!Ks in general......not only are they functional cutting tools, they're also good looking!
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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
The Survive! Never Say Die! Chat Thread
- Thread starter Hard Knocks
- Start date
That's the problem with S!Ks in general......not only are they functional cutting tools, they're also good looking!
chiral.grolim
Universal Kydex Sheath Extension
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Mind (very briefly) blown.
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chiral.grolim
Universal Kydex Sheath Extension
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I support this question!!
I'm still shy about what impact use of the "h" word may or may not have on the order of delivery
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I'm still shy about what impact use of the "h" word may or may not have on the order of delivery
Well I do have it on good authority that if Ellie ever gets the chance to turn the tables on us over the hat thing that she will be pulling no punches!!
Karoi
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It's also a nice change to not see the "Concerns about bla bla bla estimates" thread on page 1!
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Nothing wrong with that!
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I have a venison roast thawing out in the fridge, any special tips on it? I've only done backstraps, burgers, and steaks. Planning on keeping it simple, cooking it on low overnight in a crock pot with garlic powder and onion soup mix rubbed into it, beef stock and cream of mushroom soup for liquid, onion, carrots, and potatoes. I've cooked all my other venison pretty rare but I don't think that would be so good with a roast, bloody potatoes sound a bit horrific. :barf:
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Some day, some way, before I die I will throw my ass out of a plane again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdnTSXUWd3E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdnTSXUWd3E
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Doh, wrong link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ItHNdrPEh0
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Venison roast was amazing. Glad I didn't have it ground into burger like usual.
My folks went to slack off in Texas for a month and a half so I'm splitting time between my house and theirs. Had to decide how to pass the time at their place so I packed up the old PlayStation Guitar Hero(it's amazing how bad I am at it), some drawing stuff to do some sheath designs, and a couple knives to play with.
I have a harebrained idea that I may thin out my knives at some point, I thought I would bust up some 2x4's and do some cutting. Feathersticking doesn't encompass all we do with a knife but with the pressure you apply it gives a good idea how it's going to handle. It's entirely subjective and unscientific as can be, so I thought this was the right place to post it.
Mora Bushcraft Black up first, straight out of the packaging. Extremely sharp and very comfortable for push and draw cuts. I don't know that it's worth the price increase over say a Mora Robust, but it definitely cuts well. I don't like scandi grinds so much, I can't get fine cuts as well but that's probably more due to my comfort and skill level.
Real Steel Bushcraft 2. An excellent value with its D2 steel. I don't love polished handle material but it has pretty good ergos. The handle is not very tall but it's widened out enough to make it pretty hand filling. I felt like I got chunks more than feathers but it is a sharp edge.
ESSE 3HM, stripped and with a 20 DPS edge done on a KME. 1095 steel. I love ESEE's HM variants, the handles blow the doors off the old versions and it gets rid of the choil. Curls could be thinned out at will. One of the best knives I own and an excellent value.
From one of our custom makers on BF, a knife from Wind River Wild in 3V. Seems a little thicker than needed behind the edge but it's sharp and comfortable, the handle profile is well done.
Busses Mean Street Ergo Battle Grade. Typical problems with thick edges, I worked on it for 10 minutes with my Work Sharp Field Sharpener but it needs a couple hours on the KME to let the SR101 shine. I was really happy when I got this knife, it feels much better than the Battle Grade Active Duty and Anniversary Mean Street I picked up in Operation 2 Weeks. In use though it got hot quick on my index and pinky finger pads quick. This little bit of cutting hurt a lot more than I expected.
More to come. Remember this is just subjective, everyone's hand is different.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
My folks went to slack off in Texas for a month and a half so I'm splitting time between my house and theirs. Had to decide how to pass the time at their place so I packed up the old PlayStation Guitar Hero(it's amazing how bad I am at it), some drawing stuff to do some sheath designs, and a couple knives to play with.
I have a harebrained idea that I may thin out my knives at some point, I thought I would bust up some 2x4's and do some cutting. Feathersticking doesn't encompass all we do with a knife but with the pressure you apply it gives a good idea how it's going to handle. It's entirely subjective and unscientific as can be, so I thought this was the right place to post it.
Mora Bushcraft Black up first, straight out of the packaging. Extremely sharp and very comfortable for push and draw cuts. I don't know that it's worth the price increase over say a Mora Robust, but it definitely cuts well. I don't like scandi grinds so much, I can't get fine cuts as well but that's probably more due to my comfort and skill level.
Real Steel Bushcraft 2. An excellent value with its D2 steel. I don't love polished handle material but it has pretty good ergos. The handle is not very tall but it's widened out enough to make it pretty hand filling. I felt like I got chunks more than feathers but it is a sharp edge.
ESSE 3HM, stripped and with a 20 DPS edge done on a KME. 1095 steel. I love ESEE's HM variants, the handles blow the doors off the old versions and it gets rid of the choil. Curls could be thinned out at will. One of the best knives I own and an excellent value.
From one of our custom makers on BF, a knife from Wind River Wild in 3V. Seems a little thicker than needed behind the edge but it's sharp and comfortable, the handle profile is well done.
Busses Mean Street Ergo Battle Grade. Typical problems with thick edges, I worked on it for 10 minutes with my Work Sharp Field Sharpener but it needs a couple hours on the KME to let the SR101 shine. I was really happy when I got this knife, it feels much better than the Battle Grade Active Duty and Anniversary Mean Street I picked up in Operation 2 Weeks. In use though it got hot quick on my index and pinky finger pads quick. This little bit of cutting hurt a lot more than I expected.
More to come. Remember this is just subjective, everyone's hand is different.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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- Jul 14, 2014
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Great comparisons, Grogimus. Did you keep all the shavings from the bucket?
I like the look of the HM ESEEs. I laugh a little inside, though. Did they remove the choil or just remove the handle contouring leading up to the choil???
With the above comment, part of me just wanted to hassle Grog, but I was also a little serious. I do like the look of the HM designs, but does having the ability to have your finger right up to the actual blade edge provide a benefit I'm not aware of? For someone like me who doesn't need any help with slipping up and doing something stupid, having the blade edge 100% accessible to my precious index finger seems dangerous without a real benefit. Please enlighten me if in missing something! Having potential finger/blade edge contact is my main reason for not liking choils. As an example, look at this old ESEE pic that I found. The top knife feels safer to me because there is actually some flat steel before the edge starts. The middle knife has handle material between finger and edge. The bottom knife has an edge/handle relationship like the HMs. Here's my question: does the top knife give a disadvantage to the bottom knife because of the flat bit of steel before the edge starts?
What I don't like about the HM design is the same reason I don't like Bradford knives. You don't even get the option of a choil. It's like "if you want to hold this knife, you MUST put your finger near the edge". Even without hard stabbing, I could see this being a recipe for disaster... for ME. With that said, these are well liked knives designed by good people, so let me know what I'm missing.
I like the look of the HM ESEEs. I laugh a little inside, though. Did they remove the choil or just remove the handle contouring leading up to the choil???
With the above comment, part of me just wanted to hassle Grog, but I was also a little serious. I do like the look of the HM designs, but does having the ability to have your finger right up to the actual blade edge provide a benefit I'm not aware of? For someone like me who doesn't need any help with slipping up and doing something stupid, having the blade edge 100% accessible to my precious index finger seems dangerous without a real benefit. Please enlighten me if in missing something! Having potential finger/blade edge contact is my main reason for not liking choils. As an example, look at this old ESEE pic that I found. The top knife feels safer to me because there is actually some flat steel before the edge starts. The middle knife has handle material between finger and edge. The bottom knife has an edge/handle relationship like the HMs. Here's my question: does the top knife give a disadvantage to the bottom knife because of the flat bit of steel before the edge starts?
What I don't like about the HM design is the same reason I don't like Bradford knives. You don't even get the option of a choil. It's like "if you want to hold this knife, you MUST put your finger near the edge". Even without hard stabbing, I could see this being a recipe for disaster... for ME. With that said, these are well liked knives designed by good people, so let me know what I'm missing.