tips, tricks, hacks

[Matthew Gregory]

There have been instances where I've been less than careful with a finished blade.


I know. Go figure.

Anyway, when you get a scratch or a scuff on a hand-finished blade, usually you sit on the shop floor and cry for a little while, then you have to figure out how the hell to hold the thing while you sand the scratch out. In order to do that, I made this:

A scrap piece of aluminum with several 1"x1/2"x.250" N52 high power neodymium magnets stuck to it with serious adhesive.


IMMEDIATELY cover the magnets with a couple layers of tape - if you don't, you'll forever be chasing stuff off the surface.

Throw it in the ol' vise when you need it:

Cover both the magnets AND the other side of the blade in a couple layers of FRESH tape before you use it. ALWAYS USE FRESH TAPE!!!!! The one time you don't and realize you just MF'd the other side of the blade because of a tiny bit of mill swarf you didn't see will likely be enough to reinforce the importance of a fresh layer of tape, but go ahead and don't listen to me. Learn it the hard way. See if I care.

You can now hit pretty much anywhere on the blade you need to, including the spine, without interference. The knife won't slip unless you're a total dumbass and are using enough force to move planets. I'm only like that after coffee, so just lay off the energy drinks for a bit and you should be good to go. You'll need to lever the knife off the magnets. They REALLY hold. Well in excess of fifty pounds of force, here.

I have a larger version of this for bigger blades, but you get the idea.

I buy my magnets from K&J Magnetics. Great people to work with and a HUGE selection.

Hope this helps.

 

[HSC ///]

There have been instances where I've been less than careful with a finished blade.


A scrap piece of aluminum with several 1"x1/2"x.250" N52 high power neodymium magnets stuck to it with serious adhesive.

nice one, thanks for a great addition to this thread and contribution

 

[timos-]

Ditto. This happens to me just about every time so...this is Huuuge

 

[josh81]

Same here. I can't seem to sharpen a blade without scratching it. Even with tape.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[irona]

I always have one of these brushes on my workbench pretty much at all times

Comes in handy every 10 minutes - brushing sawdust off my grinder and vice, light clean up, brushing off dust and metal shavings from everything I have on my workbench, works ok at cleaning files (I still have to get a file card!!)
I'd definitely recommend it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[irona]

One more thing, I have this desk lamp I got for my desk from Fred Meyer (basically a wall-mart) for like $15-$20 bucks. It has been SO helpful as a light for my vice, since I don't have great lighting down in my shop. It can extend vertically and horizontally, and shines light only on the work and not in my eyes. It also stays out of the way very well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jdm61]

+1 on what Stacy said. Next time you are at Starbucks or a similar place, just grab a small handful of those little wood swizzle sticks. i would mention another little "trick" that most of you probably already know. A blade magnet and a flat platen is the "poor man's surface grinder." Not good enough for folders, but once you get the hang of it, it works fairly well for ricassos

 

[josh81]

I need to make some hand sanding backers. I seem to really be struggling with my blade finishes. Any advice in that department. Right now I just use a flat steel bar. I've been keeping my eye out for some cheap g10 or similar though. Hope this isn't considered hijacking.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[josh81]

I don't have a lot to contribute but I did come across something that works really well for me. It's a product from 3m called Zona polishing paper. I finished this ironwood to 1500 grit. Then started with the 30 micron all the way down to 1 micron. Then hit lightly on a lose buff with pink no scratch. This stuff is flexible like cloth and can be worked in a shoe shine motion.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Kevin McGovern]

Wrap sandpaper around an old credit card to touch up around scales If you already glued them on. At least until you get it through your thick skull to get the ricasso perfect before glue up. (Ask me how I know)

 

[jdm61]

Go to HD or Lowes and buy a 3M hard rubber sanding block. It lets you get right up into the plunge line.

I need to make some hand sanding backers. I seem to really be struggling with my blade finishes. Any advice in that department. Right now I just use a flat steel bar. I've been keeping my eye out for some cheap g10 or similar though. Hope this isn't considered hijacking.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[josh81]

Go to HD or Lowes and buy a 3M hard rubber sanding block. It lets you get right up into the plunge line.

I'll do that. Thank you!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[HSC ///]

for drilling a straight deep hole in a block for a hidden tang handle
this has been covered before but I like pics so here you go

I used the hole in the center of my drill press table, made an alum plug with a hole in it. used a bolt and nut as the center, then just ground a conical center on the bolt.
It was all free scrap material from work.

 

[HSC ///]

I need to make some hand sanding backers. I seem to really be struggling with my blade finishes. Any advice in that department. Right now I just use a flat steel bar. I've been keeping my eye out for some cheap g10 or similar though. Hope this isn't considered hijacking.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

try this
take a flat bar or old file, epoxy a strip or portion of an old timing belt on.
you can use the "grooves" in the timing belt on one bar
and then try the other flat side of the belt,
experiment with the two and report back to us (just kidding)

 

[E.Carlson]

I need to make some hand sanding backers. I seem to really be struggling with my blade finishes. Any advice in that department. Right now I just use a flat steel bar. I've been keeping my eye out for some cheap g10 or similar though. Hope this isn't considered hijacking.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I glued a piece of scrap leather to one side of my steel sanding bar. Works great especially on your final pass.
Another tip I learned here is to sand one grit higher than your planned final grit, than go back down one grit using the leather side of the bar.

 

[Jrmysell]

I need to make some hand sanding backers. I seem to really be struggling with my blade finishes. Any advice in that department. Right now I just use a flat steel bar. I've been keeping my eye out for some cheap g10 or similar though. Hope this isn't considered hijacking.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

What I use is a 10" x 1.5" x 3/8" piece of dymond wood. You can easily shape the ends to be more comfortable, but it's not as big as a sanding block either. Plus they are cheaper if your ordering from a knife supplier, just add a couple on your next order. I also use one that I tapered for opening my pancake sheaths when wet molding.

 

[josh81]

Awesome guys. Thanks for all the tips!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I don't have a lot to contribute but I did come across something that works really well for me. It's a product from 3m called Zona polishing paper. I finished this ironwood to 1500 grit. Then started with the 30 micron all the way down to 1 micron. Then hit lightly on a lose buff with pink no scratch. This stuff is flexible like cloth and can be worked in a shoe shine motion.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

3M calls them "3M wet-dry polishing papers". Zona is just a resellers name ( Zona Tool Company). They are the sam3M green/gray/pink/mint/white papers going from 400 grit to 8000 grit ( in some newer sets, the white is now called pale green). I buy them in bulk packs of a dozen sets and get a good discount. They sell at about $1.85 a sheet in single grits, but a set of six is only $6.00, with quantity discounts for bulk. Bulk knocks off 10%. What makes it really good from my supplier is that when I order the bulk order, they send me six packs of a dozen each grit instead of twelve assorted sets.

These were engineered for jewelry work, especially hand polishing platinum. They excel at wood polishing and for blade polishing up to a satin finish. They will touch up finger marks, tiny rust spots, and smudges in an instant at a show. I follow them by a soft cotton cloth impregnated with Renaissance wax.

They are really good at finishing brass and nickel guards and pommels.

You can use them until they are rags if you keep them in a plastic bag so they don't get contaminated by stray grits.

For wood turners, they will put a polish on a pen or other small turning better than anything I have found.

Many of the online resellers double the price, so check with wholesale suppliers like Rio Grande and Stuller for better prices ( you will need a jeweler friend to order from Stuller for you). I see the resellers charging from $11 to $20 a set ... which is two to three times the actual cost.

TIP:
Put an "X" on the back of the 8000 grit sheet before you use it. Once used, you can't tell the back side from the abrasive impregnated front. I think that may be why they changed the color slightly.

 

[josh81]

That's good to know Stacy. I'm buying them on amazon but I will look for a different supplier. Thank you!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Boston_Strong]

There have been instances where I've been less than careful with a finished blade.


I know. Go figure.

Anyway, when you get a scratch or a scuff on a hand-finished blade, usually you sit on the shop floor and cry for a little while, then you have to figure out how the hell to hold the thing while you sand the scratch out. In order to do that, I made this:

A scrap piece of aluminum with several 1"x1/2"x.250" N52 high power neodymium magnets stuck to it with serious adhesive.


IMMEDIATELY cover the magnets with a couple layers of tape - if you don't, you'll forever be chasing stuff off the surface.

Throw it in the ol' vise when you need it:

Cover both the magnets AND the other side of the blade in a couple layers of FRESH tape before you use it. ALWAYS USE FRESH TAPE!!!!! The one time you don't and realize you just MF'd the other side of the blade because of a tiny bit of mill swarf you didn't see will likely be enough to reinforce the importance of a fresh layer of tape, but go ahead and don't listen to me. Learn it the hard way. See if I care.

You can now hit pretty much anywhere on the blade you need to, including the spine, without interference. The knife won't slip unless you're a total dumbass and are using enough force to move planets. I'm only like that after coffee, so just lay off the energy drinks for a bit and you should be good to go. You'll need to lever the knife off the magnets. They REALLY hold. Well in excess of fifty pounds of force, here.

I have a larger version of this for bigger blades, but you get the idea.

I buy my magnets from K&J Magnetics. Great people to work with and a HUGE selection.

Hope this helps.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk