To forge or not to forge, is one way any better?

Allan Molstad

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(It's too cold to go out to my shop today, so while I have the free time, Im going to share my views of a question always asked of me by my friends who see how much work I put into a knife)

To forge or not to forge? My views...

First , Im not a "science guy"
I dont know much at all about expert bladesmithing, and I have no real understanding of the inner nature of steel at all...

But what I believe will turn out to be true is this;
That while banging on steel is fun, and can help form steel into new shapes, it will not make a knife any better by itself.
So at first glance I would answer the question and say "It doesn't matter"

I know that puts me at odds with some forge friends, but I just have always felt that other things are in play in this question, and not just a rule that the hammering alone is key.

I think that it is the Heat-treatments that a bladesmith uses that make or break a blade.
I dont care how good a job I did with my hammer and forge, I dont care what type of tools I used if I screw up the Heat-treatments.
Mess up the HT and all the forge work that came before is moot.

Is banging hot steel any better than stock-removal?
Can a forge and hammer end you up with a better knife than other knife making means?

My answer is this-
There is also the suggestion that we should even count the hammer blows on each side of a knife to make sure they are equal...But Im not sure thats correct yet.
I know that it might sound like a good idea to count the hits.
But again,I dont think that it makes that much difference if your HT is right on the mark.

As far as another connected question about the use of a real hammer or power hammer?
I think thats a tricky question, and hard for me to answer.
The reason I think so tricky is because of what I have noticed with my own hammer work, and what I have seen in videos of a power hammer strikes.

My hammer always hits in unknown ways.
Sometimes the top of the hammer face hits the steel first, sometimes the lower end of the hammer face strikes first.
The result seems to be that the hammer face will drive the outer surface down in different ways.
The force of the hammer hitting not flush will push scale into the steel face in different ways too.
This might bring into the inner steel core many different things that will change the way the final knife will act when cutting.
A power hammer should hit more flush than my hammer, so I would expect less scale (and unknowns) to be driven into the steel as deep as my hammer.

To my way of thinking, a very good thing to test would be to learn if a slow press will effect steel in a different manner than a banging hammer?

But is forge work going to result in a better blade than the same steel finished with only stock-removal?
There could well be differences because of the action of the hammer to drive scale down into the steel...But Im not sure anyone knows if this will really harm or help the cutting edge later?

So my final answer to that question "Is hammering better than stock-removal?", is that "I dont have enough data to form an answer, but I do expect there to be some difference in the two systems"
And my final answer to the question "Small hand hammer or big power hammer?", my answer would be that this question becomes a moot point compared to the quality of the Heat-treatment used.

The only thing I can say and be 100% sure about is, that I find bringing my big hammer down hard onto red hot steel a lot more fun that just standing there at my grinder making sparks.
The story later of what work went into the final blade is also a lot more interesting for me to tell if it starts out with the basic points of "Fire, some steel, and a man armed with a hammer and an idea of what he wants to do"
Being a bladesmith, (even a not very good one yet), is better and means more to me than just being able to build a knife out of some parts I ordered and glued up.

When I show a blade to someone they look at it for a while, then hand it back to me.
But then when I add to the story that my wife and I forged this blade out of a ball bearing, then they always ask to see the knife again one more time...
It's the image of the man at a forge that brings a new layer to the story.
 
You have to WANT to forge to do it, that simple for me. It also opens up big doors of materials to be used..... I recentely made 2 bowies, 10" x 2" wide x 1/4" thick at ricasso from a 9" piece of 7/8" round bar... only 1 way to do that.
 
I think I want to forge for the sake of doing it,

Thats where I come down on this as well.
A forged blade of mine is better than my others because of the way I show what the blade means to me via the effort.

If I just wanted to own a sharp knife, I dont have to learn to make one, my wife's kitchen is filled with sharp knives.
So being a bladesmith is about a lot more than just getting a better blade.

To me it's about history, the passing of an age of steel and fire and of men alone in the darkened rooms filled with smoke.
There is found the true magic of making a knife.
A magic missing when I just order pre-cut steel and then stand at my grinder making sparks.

Another reason why I love to use fire and hammer is that it allows me to change things as I go along.
Before I got my forge if I would grind my blade outline too small I was stuck.
My beltgrinder can do many tricks, but it cant make a blade longer.
But with the forge of a bladesmith you have the chance to draw out the steel and fix knives that might have been tossed out.

I think that any knife maker would want to learn how to forge a blade just to be able to more fully control his designs.
 
A belt grinder can not do this with a chunk of wrecking bar. (It's not finished yet)
survival21-web.jpg


Or this.
wroughthawk-web.jpg


But I think a bladesmith should experiement with both methods. I have made several smaller knives that it just didn't make sense to try to forge them.

I always add this caveat whenever this subject comes up. Whether you grind, forge, build kits or collect you are welcome in shop any time. The forge is hot and the beer is cold.;)
 
I DO hope everybody reads that dissertation by Kevin - at least twice!
Personally, I forge everything I make. First, I will say that I HATE! bar stock. Don't own any, don't buy any. You are resticted right from the get go.
I've got 3000 feet of 1" square 5160 all made on the same day with the same recipe. I know what I've got every time I walk into the shop.
Other days, I forge down W1 from round stock. I work a lot of Damascus from Jerry Rados and the ONLY way to get the 3D effect from high layer count Damascus is to forge it! There's no other way.
I have literally NO WASTE when I forge. Stock removal leaves 1/2 of the steel you start with on the floor!
And, to repeat what my buddy Ray said, "A forged blade has a soul".
 
In my opinion you can make a high performance blade with both methods, I think the main decision for people is which appeals to you.
 
Can you take a pile of steel bars and grind them into damascus?
Can you grind at 3" of 1.5" round bar and make a bowie?
Can you grind a 1.25" wide bar into a 1.5" bar?
If you make a mistake and grind away too much, can you re-grind it back the way it was?


These are a few of the places forging shines.

The reason to forge is metal control. You decide where the metal is to go and how it is to be shaped. The maximum efficiency in waste control is ending up with exactly the same amount of steel, just in a different shape.

Besides all that.....
FORGING IS JUST PLAIN FUN !!!
Stacy

Edited to add:
Every forged blade still needs good grinding to complete it. Both need proper HT.
 
in the original post, allan stressed the importance of a good HT, but you also can't forget edge geometry. a good HT and good edge geometry make a good knife...regardless of the method of creation.

a good summary of the stock removal vs forging argument i think
deffinately some good food for thought there
 
Forging is a creative process as old as steel itself.

I feel a connection to all those knife makers, of the past, by way of my forge.

Having that connection, inspires me, were looking at a piece of flatstock does
not.

Either method can produce a good blade.

Fred
 
Forging for me made more sense from an economy and effort point of view.

I am not a rich man, and have no spare cash for a belt grinder worth grinding on. I have been saving my pennies for a coote now for seven months. Bader and KMG are just outside the realm of possibility.

However, with minimal investment I managed to poick up the things I needed to build not one but two rather decent forced air propane forges. I got really lucky and found a medical grade two stage adjustable regulator for a STEAL.

I got my anvil (a 100 pound vulcan) from the local high school for $75.

Moving hot metal with a hammer is pretty easy, at least with 1084 and W2.

Hand filing on the other hand takes forever, even fully annealed.

So, to me, it makes most sense, (at least in my position) to forge as much as I can, saving as much effort as possible from subsequent stock removal steps.

When I can afford a good grinder, this may change, but I've fallen so in love with the process that I think I'll still forge!
 
It was Senior Fowler that make a forger out of me. I to had been looking at the pros and cons of each method, and forging kept coming up ahead of SR.
Forging combined with thermal cycling plus proper HT & T adds up to a better blade, especially if using 5160 or 52100. Of course, YMMV.
 
I don't forge steel. I make virtually exclusively slipjoint folders and linerlocked folders. I use stock removal, and have had Paul Bos do the heat treat on all my stainless steels.
That being said, I think there is almost something mystical in the whole idea of forging knives.
Is one better than the other? I believe one can create a fine using blade by stock removal and also by forging a blade.
If I were a collector of straight knives, I'd certainly want some forged by the maker. But I don't collect forged knives....I admire the heck out of some of them and would like to try forging someday.
But I collect folders and make folders. And the main thing stopping me from getting into forging is that we have lived in our current home since 1976. We are going to continue living here for probably the rest of our lives. My nearest neighbor isn't 75 feet from the part of the garage that holds my grinders, surface grinder, buffers, bead blaster etc. I don't think it would be acceptable to be forging steel that close to neighbors. They weren't real happy when I had a Harley..with stock exhaust pipes.....
But better one way than the other.....user, probably not.
but as a fun thing to do and the marketing value of being able to discuss the forging of a blade is definitely advantageous....You aren't marketing the knife you made, you are marketing the mystique, the mental pictures, the history of the creating of the blade at the fire....etc.
I enjoy making the knives I do...all stock removal folders. The guys with the hammer and fire have got to enjoy the way they make knives.....is it win? or win?
 
And the main thing stopping me .... I don't think it would be acceptable to be forging steel that close to neighbors. ?
A very real concern for many people who would jump at the chance to become a real bladesmith, if not for the loud banging and who might get upset from hearing it.
And there is no one good answer to your problem because every situation can be very different.

The one thing that might help you out is that I see you live in a part of the country that gets snow and is very cold in the winter.
Thats great news! Because it means no one is outside very much to hear you. Everyone else is indoors where it's warm.
Their doors a shut tight.
Their windows are closed....
Thus this is a good time to be guilty of making a lot of noise out there in your shop without anyone even knowing about it.

And there is something about a knife thats born in a bladesmith's fire...
-----------------------------------

When I started to make, (or build) my very first knives I did so knowing that I could never say that the final knife was truly "mine".

When I would finish a knife and show it to people they would ask questions about how it was made?
I always noted a little look that people shot me when they learend that rather than "making" this knife it became clear to them that I just "grinded it out" like a guy at a autobody shop.

I wanted more out of myself and my knives.
I wanted to make something that people will not see very many of in their whole lives.
I like the look now I get when I do a little show-and-tell about a blade I just finished.
I know my work is poor compared to most of the knife makers on this forum, but every forged blade still can reflect well on the maker and his heart.
For many people that I show my work to this is the first and only real chance they have to hold in their hands a true blade of the forge.

And people seem to know it...
It's a dieing art.
And people seem to know that they hold in their hands something that is becomming more and more rare and worthy of a bit more respect than just what a normal knife receives from them.
 
When the power goes out, you can still forge and HT if you can scrounge fuel. I'd be down to files and sandpaper. Phillip Patton recently showed a billet he made completely from his own shop scrap, can't do that with a grinder either.

I agree and understand about the history inherent in forging, and respecting that tradition. I definitely want to get into it. But I don't think forged blades automatically have more soul than SR ones. I sure don't feel that way looking at a Loveless or Randall. (two of the men that got me REALLY interested in this in the first place, you can see it in my knives and drawings, too) The soul comes from the makers hands, and from his maker before that.
 
Forging is a whole lot of fun. Despite what IG says about railroad spikes only being usefull for forge body legs, I find plenty of uses for them myself.


Like making snakes !

snake.jpg
 
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