Toohr #3 knife sharpener

[Bdtry]

I sure will! Hope your bearings play along better than mine did.



No, if you double up the Springs then there is no need for a tube. Mine came like yours with 2 springs also. To me, using 2 springs just seems like a production shortcut. If you want to use 4 inch stones, you'll need a tube or a bunch more springs.

I used my short spring as a spring stopper next to the drill stop collar, like TSProf does. I'm only using my long spring, paired up with an extension tube.

Regarding your stones, trust me, it's a blessing that they are busted. This forces you to just throw them away and not be tempted to use them.

Looking forward to reading what you think after your first use!

Interesting about the double springs, I really thought they had shortened them. The unit seems so much longer in others videos and pictures that I was just going to trim some length off the rod so I wouldn't have to deal with extra springs or spacers since all I will ever use is 6" stones.

Yup, wasn't planning on even using the included stones, I have Venevs and Edge Pro Boride stones instead. Was going to put them in the shed for when you need to grind on something for some reason though.

 

[Bdtry]

I needed to fully disassemble my unit to re-tighten and torque up all the screws, that was definitely necessary. The quality is top-notch but the factory assembly sucks. It's easily solved with 30 minutes of work though so not a major problem. One of the most important parts that needed a firm tightening (same as S Skeptical 's unit) was the screw and nut holding the sharpening rod gimbal/bearing holder in place. I simply wedged a 2mm hex head screwdriver into the hole next to the nut, which stopped it from rotating while I tightened the top hex screw. I also replaced my digital angle cube holder platform with a magnetic one - the metal strip they stuck on the stone holder was not ferrous, so magnets do not stick to it.

I needed to fully disassemble my vertical tower and screw rod, because the 2-part brass threaded holder with spring was assembled incorrectly and not doing it's job at all. I also needed to move and reinstall the small drill stop collar in position at the top of the threaded rod, inside the top stop under the crank handle (mine was loose and this allowed the threaded rod to come out of the bottom stop when the angle was set all the way down. It was a good thing I disassembled the screw rod, because I found the bearing at the bottom of the threaded rod (inside the bottom stop) to be completely misaligned. There are 2 different bearing types supporting the bottom of the screw rod, FYI.

I made the mistake of removing one of the stops on the rear horizontal "ruler" bar to get to the bearings. When I slid out the horizontal assembly of the tower, some of the small ball bearings fell out and it was an absolute PITA to get them back in place while sliding the tower base back onto the bar. Note - Don't remove those stops if you get a Toohr #3 unless you want to use a week's worth of curse words in five minutes.

The screw inside the wing nut holder for locking the tower onto the horizontal bar was also completely loose. I solved this by installing a washer under the screw head, on top of the wing nut.

After reassembly and some Gunny glide for lubrication, it's an awesome system. My only major complaint is the knife clamps. They don't work well on most of the knives that I've tested so far; they flex too much when tightening, which then causes them to misalign with the knife grind - especially with FFG knives.

So I have started taking my unit apart. IMO everyone should get some toothpicks and paper towel to clean in the side grooves of the slider bar at the bare minimum. Mine was FILTHY. I used 99% ispopropyl alcohol as the degreaser.

The channel is shaped like a half ball with a slot at the bottom. This is so the bearings and bearing guide/retainer have a place to go. Mine was loaded with swarf, cutting oil, dirt, grease etc and the paper towel came out black and sparkly each time. It started out as a rough, gritty, grinding motion when you moved the slider to a very nice and smooth slide. It will occasionally hang up a bit, I think due to missing ball bearings making a gap that causes others to hang up.

Yeah, not really cutting it in the small grooves.

Much better when wrapping a small bit around a toothpick. This is just one of several that all came out looking black.

I was quite impressed with its construction. The green plastic parts are end guides for the bearings as they travel along and go in behind the slot to travel to the other side. The red part is a wiper seal to keep junk out of the bearings and is held into place by 2 #1 Phillips screws. They are fairly soft so be gentle. The wiper appears to be a brass or copper base with plastic moulded around it when you would just expect a piece of solid rubber or plastic at most. I started by taking it off but it is not necessary at all. Just use a 3mm hex/allen key to remove the screws holding the feet onto one of the sides and then slide the slider off.

The back of the wiper. Also best to clean this off as there was a good amount of grunge on them.

Be careful of the bearings. This is a step you want to do slowly and carefully as the wire bearing retainers can flex if the balls get bound up and balls can pop out. If one does pop out you can just lightly press it back into place. Thankfully I only had 3 total pop out during removal and reassembly. No curse words from me There was also quite a bit of swarf underneath this part. I applied a few small drops of oil to the bearings on each side with a needle applicator and the reassembled. It can be tricky sliding it back on, go slow and watch for binding balls as they can start to push each other out of the guides. You might have to go back and forth a bit to get stubborn ones in.

A few missing bearings from the factory causing big gaps. You can also see the wire bearing retainers also held in by the green pieces.

Now onto the upright unit. You will need a 2.5mm hex key to remove the knob, and a 4mm hex key to remove the screws that attach to the upright guide rods. You can just remove the screws from the top and slide the entire unit off the guide rods. Be careful when unscrewing the screw rod from the gimbal unit. There is a spring in there between the 2 pieces and parts can go flying once it unthreads enough.
Sproing

The bronze bushings in mine were cleaned, there was a bit of swarf in each of them. The upright rods were a bit dirty as well. The threaded rod and threaded bushing pieces were all clean. I am once again amazed going over the gimbal. The sharpening rod guide is a LM8UU bearing held in with a set screw, and where it pivots on the sides are more bearings.

Given the price of the unit and where it comes from you would normally be expecting a bushing, probably plastic, for the rod and nothing on the sides. Also, as mentioned, there is a hole in the bottom of the gimbal assembly and a threaded one in the rotating section as well. If you look in the parts bag there is actually a screw provided that you can use to prevent it from turning. This is handy when you are doing things like serrated knives and you want everything to remain straight while the unit slides.

The screws on the bottom threaded bushing are 2mm in size (mine were slightly loose), the ones holding the sides onto the gimbal are 3mm. The one attaching the parking hook is 2.5mm. You can convert it to/from "left handed" mode by removing the screw and moving the hook to the other side. When you assemble the sharpener with the parking hook at the back this changes which side the stone holder will sit on when parked so if it is the wrong side for you from the factory you can switch it. I am not really a fan of this parking hook, it requires the arm to be up very high and far to the side. I will probably use a bit of coat hanger wire to attach to it and make a higher hook so it sits more even. I don't have a K03 to steal a parking hook stop from

The bearings in the bottom of the upright unit. One both for side to side and one that the rod rests on. As mentioned in the quoted post, the plate on the bottom washer is misaligned. There is nothing holding it into place. There is no nub on the bottom of the rod, the other bearing sits too high to keep it into place. I don't see a way of keeping it aligned as currently designed but I am not sure if it really matters. Once again, great quality on something you would have expected to be an empty hole for the price.

And unfortunately that is how my unit will be staying for the night. It is well below freezing and all the sockets are in the shed. The lock nut on the rotating gimbal screw is quite stuck and I can't tighten it up with what I have on hand.

Hopefully the pictures are useful for people considering a unit or already have one and might be looking to improve it a bit.

 

[Lovetolearnabouteverythin]

My questi

So I have started taking my unit apart. IMO everyone should get some toothpicks and paper towel to clean in the side grooves of the slider bar at the bare minimum. Mine was FILTHY. I used 99% ispopropyl alcohol as the degreaser.

The channel is shaped like a half ball with a slot at the bottom. This is so the bearings and bearing guide/retainer have a place to go. Mine was loaded with swarf, cutting oil, dirt, grease etc and the paper towel came out black and sparkly each time. It started out as a rough, gritty, grinding motion when you moved the slider to a very nice and smooth slide. It will occasionally hang up a bit, I think due to missing ball bearings making a gap that causes others to hang up.

Yeah, not really cutting it in the small grooves.


Much better when wrapping a small bit around a toothpick. This is just one of several that all came out looking black.


I was quite impressed with its construction. The green plastic parts are end guides for the bearings as they travel along and go in behind the slot to travel to the other side. The red part is a wiper seal to keep junk out of the bearings and is held into place by 2 #1 Phillips screws. They are fairly soft so be gentle. The wiper appears to be a brass or copper base with plastic moulded around it when you would just expect a piece of solid rubber or plastic at most. I started by taking it off but it is not necessary at all. Just use a 3mm hex/allen key to remove the screws holding the feet onto one of the sides and then slide the slider off.


The back of the wiper. Also best to clean this off as there was a good amount of grunge on them.


Be careful of the bearings. This is a step you want to do slowly and carefully as the wire bearing retainers can flex if the balls get bound up and balls can pop out. If one does pop out you can just lightly press it back into place. Thankfully I only had 3 total pop out during removal and reassembly. No curse words from me There was also quite a bit of swarf underneath this part. I applied a few small drops of oil to the bearings on each side with a needle applicator and the reassembled. It can be tricky sliding it back on, go slow and watch for binding balls as they can start to push each other out of the guides. You might have to go back and forth a bit to get stubborn ones in.

A few missing bearings from the factory causing big gaps. You can also see the wire bearing retainers also held in by the green pieces.


Now onto the upright unit. You will need a 2.5mm hex key to remove the knob, and a 4mm hex key to remove the screws that attach to the upright guide rods. You can just remove the screws from the top and slide the entire unit off the guide rods. Be careful when unscrewing the screw rod from the gimbal unit. There is a spring in there between the 2 pieces and parts can go flying once it unthreads enough.
Sproing


The bronze bushings in mine were cleaned, there was a bit of swarf in each of them. The upright rods were a bit dirty as well. The threaded rod and threaded bushing pieces were all clean. I am once again amazed going over the gimbal. The sharpening rod guide is a LM8UU bearing held in with a set screw, and where it pivots on the sides are more bearings.

Given the price of the unit and where it comes from you would normally be expecting a bushing, probably plastic, for the rod and nothing on the sides. Also, as mentioned, there is a hole in the bottom of the gimbal assembly and a threaded one in the rotating section as well. If you look in the parts bag there is actually a screw provided that you can use to prevent it from turning. This is handy when you are doing things like serrated knives and you want everything to remain straight while the unit slides.

The screws on the bottom threaded bushing are 2mm in size (mine were slightly loose), the ones holding the sides onto the gimbal are 3mm. The one attaching the parking hook is 2.5mm. You can convert it to/from "left handed" mode by removing the screw and moving the hook to the other side. When you assemble the sharpener with the parking hook at the back this changes which side the stone holder will sit on when parked so if it is the wrong side for you from the factory you can switch it. I am not really a fan of this parking hook, it requires the arm to be up very high and far to the side. I will probably use a bit of coat hanger wire to attach to it and make a higher hook so it sits more even. I don't have a K03 to steal a parking hook stop from


The bearings in the bottom of the upright unit. One both for side to side and one that the rod rests on. As mentioned in the quoted post, the plate on the bottom washer is misaligned. There is nothing holding it into place. There is no nub on the bottom of the rod, the other bearing sits too high to keep it into place. I don't see a way of keeping it aligned as currently designed but I am not sure if it really matters. Once again, great quality on something you would have expected to be an empty hole for the price.


And unfortunately that is how my unit will be staying for the night. It is well below freezing and all the sockets are in the shed. The lock nut on the rotating gimbal screw is quite stuck and I can't tighten it up with what I have on hand.

Hopefully the pictures are useful for people considering a unit or already have one and might be looking to improve it a bit.

isnt this unit suppose to be new? I wonder why they sent a unit that looks used though…

 

[Bdtry]

My questi

isnt this unit suppose to be new? I wonder why they sent a unit that looks used though…

How does it look used? It is completely new, it is just that some parts were not cleaned very well after manufacturing. The grunge you see is metal flakes from machining, cutting oil, grease etc from the manufacturing process.

 

[Lovetolearnabouteverythin]

You telling in these pictures, the devices doesn’t looked used… There is clearly a blemish near the buttom of one of the pieces. Not to mention, I saw a review where a guy showed he received an piece that had deep indent in one of pieces..

 

[Lovetolearnabouteverythin]

How does it look used? It is completely new, it is just that some parts were not cleaned very well after manufacturing. The grunge you see is metal flakes from machining, cutting oil, grease etc from the manufacturing process.

Here is screenshot of reviewer receiving a piece with a deep indents.. Similar to this online forum user experience,…

 

[Bdtry]

You telling in these pictures, the devices doesn’t looked used… There is clearly a blemish near the buttom of one of the pieces. Not to mention, I saw a review where a guy showed he received an piece that had deep indent in one of pieces..

No, it doesn't look used. It was just not cleaned at the factory after it was made, you are seeing dirty oil and swarf in my pictures, it wiped off with some paper towel and degreaser. It is blatantly obvious if you are at all familiar with manufacturing stuff. What blemish are you talking about in my 1st picture? The stuff at the bottom of the foot and the end of the bar by the gap where the foot was moved? That is pieces of foam that got caught from the packing material.
If your hands look like this when you are touching parts or assembling items the parts will come out dirty.

Here is screenshot of reviewer receiving a piece with a deep indents.. Similar to this online forum user experience

In the 2nd post the picture shows impact damage. It looks like it was the old packing method where stuff was wrapped in newspaper and bundled together and stuffed into a plastic envelope for shipping and that piece was smacking into the steel base piece a lot during shipping causing the damage. Take a thin ~2 lb steel bar and drop it onto the edge of something aluminum from 2-5 feet up to simulate a single trip through a single shipping conveyor belt and see what happens. The new foam "case" packing method will prevent that kind of damage.

You are buying an item made in China that costs $70-$100 USD. Imperfections are to be expected, if parts are damaged you will have to message the seller. If you had the sliding base unit made in the USA it alone will cost more than this entire sharpener, likely by several times but it will be clean and without blemishes. If you want a version of this sharpener that will come perfect out of the box that you won't have to mess with, blemish free, with a warranty and support then this is what you want, with the price to match https://schleifjunkies.de/en/product/grindjunkies-grinder/

 

[Lovetolearnabouteverythin]

Lol, my bad! I never worked in factory, I am not familiar with the logistics of it. I still interested to see how you like it though, can’t wait to hear!

 

[scottc3]

Yeah, for some reason 2 pictures refuse to load. If you click on the failed to load icon it will take you to the image itself.

done- thx

If your hands look like this when you are touching parts or assembling items the parts will come out dirty

If you buy and wear work gloves and/or heavy thick latex gloves on dominant hand, materials, hands, work bench, etc will stay cleaner along with other advantages. When a pup, my wife, first child, safety, and bosses promoting gloves were drivers. Heavy calluses but clean.

 

[Bdtry]

Ok, reassembly part 2.

As mentioned by S Skeptical , a 1/4 drive 8mm socket fits well. Socket is a bit loose on the nut but will work since not much force is needed.

There are 2 bearings in the gimbal base to help prevent side to side twisting motion that may happen with only a single bearing and the bolt has a long shoulder so it rides both of them. Again, not something I expected to see in a sharpener of this price. There was obviously some though put into the design. There is a thin washer between the gimbal and base that sits on the inner race of the top bearing. This gives just enough clearance so that the parts do not rub. Be careful when tightening the nut. You want just enough so that the gimbal isn't flopping around. If you feel a "bumpy" feeling when you spin the gimbal you have gone too tight. Back the nut off until you no longer get that feeling but tight enough it doesn't flop. The difference between too tight and perfect could be 1/32 of a turn or less.

Once you finish that you can install the threaded rod and spring back into the gimbal base. This split fitting is (I believe) to compensate for wear in both the rod and bushing and deal with backlash. The spring forces the pieces apart to keep constant force on the thread so as they wear it takes up the slack that causes backlash and slop issues. I found the easiest way was to thread the rod in just enough as pictured then insert it into the base. There are 2 prongs on the upper part that will fit into slots on the base part. Rotate the top part while pushing down lightly and the 2 pieces will eventually get close together. There will still be some of the top half sticking out of the top, it shouldn't be flush so don't force it. Now turn the threaded rod in and it should eventually thread into the bottom half. Keep threading it through and install it back onto the base of the sliding unit.

Now we are getting somewhere. Tighten the screws that hold the smooth rods into the base piece. It is now time to adjust the upper stop collar which is on the threaded rod on the right side. You need a 2mm hex wrench for this. This is what prevents the threaded rod from slipping up and down. What you do is put the top cap on the rods and press down, no need to screw it in. Grab your threaded rod and move it up and down. If you have slack you need to move the collar up. If the top cap won't sit all the way down you need to move the collar down a bit. This gets a bit fiddly as you need to repeat it several times to get it just right. I would have thought there would be a bearing or washer in the top cap for the stop collar to rotate on but there is nothing. Might be worth adding one at a later date. Once you have the collar adjusted so there is no up and down movement and the top cap sits flush you can reinstall the screws in the cap to the threaded rods. Before you fully tighten them make sure the threaded rod spins easily. There will be a small amount of resistance from both the split bushing in the gimbal and the stop collar rubbing as it spins in the top cap but it should turn SMOOTHLY. If you feel any binding or hard resistance you likely have the stop collar too high. Loosen the screws, test the turning force, and adjust the collar again if needed. Once the screws are fully tightened into the smooth rods and the threaded rod is turning smoothly you can reinstall the knob. You don't want it flush against the top cap or it will grind. Lift it up just a bit to create a gap and then tighten the set screw. You can see in mine there is just a tiny gap.

We are into the final stretch now. Earlier I mentioned how the threaded portion on the rotating base would sometimes spin as you were turning the spring adjuster. This is perfectly fine and intentional. It attaches to the big screw in the middle of the clamp bar. What you do need to make sure is tight is the cap nut on the back of the threaded portion. It doesn't need to be torqued down, just tight enough so that it does not loosen off or parts may go flying.

Now to connect the rotating unit with the sliding base. I noticed that I had 7 of a longer screw and 1 of a shorter screw. I am guessing it should be 4 and 4 because the longer screws stick out of the bottom of the base and make it so it won't sit flat. The shorter screw is also not long enough to install the upright unit onto the sliding base. I only noticed the 1 shorter screw when it did not work so I switched out one from the clamp base.

Shorter screw in the top left, and again top left in the picture of the bottom. The longer screws poked holes through the rubber on the bottom. I will have to take it apart later and dremel down the screws or just find shorter ones at the hardware store.

Anyways, once you have the upright installed onto the sliding base you need to deal with the "wing nut" that is a real goofy piece. It is a screw piece with a nut portion and a threaded head, a wing handle, and finally a screw that attaches both.... kind of. The shank of the upper half of the screw/nut part is longer so the screw does not fit down all the way. The hole in the wing portion is too big for the screw to seat and hold the pieces together. This leaves you with a wing portion that moves up and down a lot and can flop around. 777 Edge undid the top screw and added a washer so he could tighten the screw onto the handle. I don't have one on hand so mine is just floppy. First picture is it taken apart, 2nd is how far up it slides with the screw fully seated, and 3rd picture is how far down the screw sits when fully seated. There is lots of thread available if you want to do the washer trick to make it more solid. 4th picture shows the piece installed and how far the wing can lift.

All you have left to do is install the clamps, assemble the abrasive holder and rod (4mm set screw), assemble it with the stop collars and you are good to go. I noticed on my stop collars that there was some metal that needed to be removed from the inside. When they drilled through them for the set screw it left a piece of metal attached. I used a round file to remove and smooth over the jagged edges so they installed and slid smoothly. Without doing so it could have scratched or galled the rod and caused issues in the future.

And done!

 

[Bdtry]

done- thx

If you buy and wear work gloves and/or heavy thick latex gloves on dominant hand, materials, hands, work bench, etc will stay cleaner along with other advantages. When a pup, my wife, first child, safety, and bosses promoting gloves were drivers. Heavy calluses but clean.

I use gloves when I can but I am guessing if the people assembling this batch had gloves they were quite dirty as well lol. It was mainly just as a visual aid to show likely why the parts were quite dirty and not a used item.

 

[cudgee]

And done!

Nice looking unit. Looking forward to hearing your impressions.

 

[Bdtry]

Sorry to anybody else that wanted to order Hapstone clamps. I got the last 2 adapters

 

[777 Edge]

Sorry to anybody else that wanted to order Hapstone clamps. I got the last 2 adapters

Awesome job getting your TooHR up and running perfectly B Bdtry . After looking at your pics, I just realized that my kit had a missing spring for one of the stop collars, this is why I'm using one of my rear springs as a stop collar stop spring.

I think you're going to like the R2 lite clamps on the TooHR, they are awesome little clamps in my opinion. Some of the most underrated clamps around.

Just remember to get some longer M5 screws or M5 thumb screws, when using the R2 clamps on the TooHR bar, you'll need longer M5 screws than the ones provided with the adapters and clamps. The TooHR bar is a lot thicker than the TSProf and Hapstone bars.

 

[Bdtry]

Awesome job getting your TooHR up and running perfectly B Bdtry . After looking at your pics, I just realized that my kit had a missing spring for one of the stop collars, this is why I'm using one of my rear springs as a stop collar stop spring.

I think you're going to like the R2 lite clamps on the TooHR, they are awesome little clamps in my opinion. Some of the most underrated clamps around.

Just remember to get some longer M5 screws or M5 thumb screws, when using the R2 clamps on the TooHR bar, you'll need longer M5 screws than the ones provided with the adapters and clamps. The TooHR bar is a lot thicker than the TSProf and Hapstone bars.

Thank you, it was an enjoyable little project, probably some of the best money I have spent in a while. I was wondering why you mentioned that you had to use one of the handle springs as a stop spring. I noticed that I am missing a screw that is used to stop the rotation of the gimbal. Do you know why they included 2 lengths of thumb screws?

I am interested to see how the R2 lite clamps compare to the Tsprof Blitz Pro clamps. They have a small capacity but can clamp pretty much any blade profile I have seen so far. I would love to see Tsprof (or somebody else) make "full size" versions.

I mentioned in the order notes asking about longer M5 screws or thumbscrews and specifically mentioned that they were being ordered for the Toohr Sharpener. If no luck then I will hit up the hardware store and see if I get lucky. If not then Amazon will probably have something.

Edit: Forgot to mention, if Gritomatic starts to carry them an additional upgrade they might want to stock is a plate for the abrasive holder, and 2 pieces for the swivel unit, 1 for the base and 1 for the brass part so that angle cubes can actually stick to them.

 

[777 Edge]

Do you know why they included 2 lengths of thumb screws?

Not sure, I also received 2 sets of thumb screws. I have a suspicion that this version of the TooHR sharpener is a bit of a Frankenstein of different tool and gadget parts thrown together by the manufacturer, so some of the parts don't specifically make sense - like the 2 sets of thumb screws. I'm pretty sure all of the parts are not made specifically for this exact system...but it works well together in harmony!

I am interested to see how the R2 lite clamps compare to the Tsprof Blitz Pro clamps. They have a small capacity but can clamp pretty much any blade profile I have seen so far. I would love to see Tsprof (or somebody else) make "full size" versions.

I totally agree - the TSProf Blitz and Blitz Pro clamps are VERY versatile clamps too, but just too small to install comfortably on bigger systems, especially with their tiny M2/M2.5 screws in the back. The R2 Lite clamps are better and easier to install on other sharpening systems, and they are incredibly versatile clamps - not for excessively thick spine knives, but for just about any EDC and kitchen knife.

Edit: Forgot to mention, if Gritomatic starts to carry them an additional upgrade they might want to stock is a plate for the abrasive holder, and 2 pieces for the swivel unit, 1 for the base and 1 for the brass part so that angle cubes can actually stick to them.

Gritomatic told me they are looking seriously into carrying them but they are working on a lot of other projects right now, so it may be a while. When they do, they will likely swap out the abrasive holder plates with their own Gritomatic ferromagnetic plates, or at least offer a replacement plate as an option.

Regarding the ferromagnetic plates, only the abrasive holder really needs one in my opinion. The rotating clamp unit base is only momentarily used to zero your cube, so I don't think it's necessary to have a ferromagnetic surface on that part. The cube needs to stay put on the abrasive holder while adjusting and checking your angle, so that needs to be ferromagnetic. When stowing your angle cube while not being used, it works perfectly on the "ruler" ferromagnetic surface of the TooHR rear sliding bar.

On the topic of angle cubes, I highly recommend the Axicube-One when it's available.

 

[AlongTheRazorsEdge]

The Toohr #3 system is a great sharpening system at a much lower price (for now) than a K03 or R2 and I would expect it to rise in price as it gains popularity.

They need to tread very lightly. The appeal for many is the pricing. Let's be honest..pricing is the only reason to even consider this system over the undoubtedly superior quality SJ system it is cloned from. Considering the system needs work and aftermarket parts right out of the box, the country of origin etc...if they go any higher, then many will just go with a quality European or US made system or another Chinese company will just clone it and sell for what they should be selling for (current pricing). The base Hapstone models are really not that much more, especially once you factor in everything else you will have to buy (angle cube, stones etc.) for either system. This is a competition for money, so they would be unwise to price themselves out of the competition. I'm not sure that Gritomatic selling these is going to be a good thing for consumers, other than shipping from the US.

 

[scottc3]

This is a competition for money,

I am trying the Toohr 3 because of the slide, which I think adds functionality to clamped, tool free clamps, or magnetic tables with guides. From Bdtry's break out I see solid materials chosen, so I'm less concerned about all the added subsystems as additional points of failure and maintenance problems.

I'm pretty sure all of the parts are not made specifically for this exact system...but it works well together in harmony!

We called that "scrap it together" when I was a pup. Thinking through why it comes ill fitted and dirty leaves me shaking my head. Clearly they reverse engineered the (sweet) SJ Multigrinder, and did not cheap out the materials badly, so reading your comment kinda makes sense, it was scraped together. The mods are really well thought out. Clay's tool-less clamps on his 2 sided sharpener is still the best imho.

it was an enjoyable little project

You did a great job, I saved your last pic as inspiration. Also a big thx for the details n pics, very helpful.

 

[cudgee]

You did a great job, I saved your last pic as inspiration. Also a big thx for the details n pics, very helpful.

Well said.

 

[Bdtry]

You did a great job, I saved your last pic as inspiration. Also a big thx for the details n pics, very helpful.

Well said.

Thank you. Since the sharpeners are so new I figured people would appreciate seeing just what they will get, at least for now and a visual guide really helps for those of us that can have issues reading and relating/comprehending without something in hand. Visual/tactile combination learners.