Toughest Folder on Earth

barrabas74 said:
Jerry thats wrong, you know I wont be here after the messiah arrives.:D

Good point! . . . . . I guess that means you'll have to pre-pay!!! ;):D


Jerry




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Any photos of this knife? Did not see any at the Busse website.



The strongest folder on earth will be here as soon as busse releases their folder to the public
 
crown said:
Any photos of this knife? Did not see any at the Busse website.

The strongest folder on earth will be here as soon as busse releases their folder to the public

Oh it's there my friend. . .but it has our new super cool, proprietary stealth coating making it nearly invisible without the use of 3-D sunglasses!!!:eek: :cool:


Jerry


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yeah you havent bought yours yet? well that coating jerry speaks of is a damned hard thing to get past and actually see it but if you look close enough you might spot it.;)

OH and jerry if you have a pre-pay option for the folder show me where to order it'll be our little secret.:D
 
Cobalt said:
I had a 110 for the longest time. The lock is great and the frame is great. The blade is weak though. But I wish I had bought one of the BG-42 special runs tey did. That would have been nice. It is heavy and clunky thogh.

You can actually still get one, if you want. Buck recently re-opened their Custom Shop, making it possible to get a Buck 110 in ATS-34 or BG-42, along with a number of custom handle options.

Very sweet stuff.
 
Esav,

Thank you, I forgot the tablock on the Workhorse. I have Sebenza's and Strider's and I have had a the Workhorse for about three years, there is no comparison in my mind the Workhorse is in a class by itself. If you had one in your hand you would know what I mean.
 
It may be "old school" compared to the "tactical folders" mentioned, but the Lakota Lil' Hawk is a very stout folder.

271_lilhawk_large.gif


Or the Lakota Pro Hawk if you prefer the micarta handle.

271a_prohawk_large.gif
 
From Cobalt:
Strength in a folder is not so much a function of blade thickness. Most folders will fail at the pivot or stop well before the blade breaks. The lock and pivots are much more important.

This got me thinking...would a folder be stronger if you eliminated the pivot and stop-pin all together?
But then it would'nt really be a folder, right?

And that got me thinking...how strong could one make an out-the-front knife (like some autos or the CRKT Rollock)?

Allen.
 
Tom Mayo's TnTs are deceptively strong and stout folders, they have very thick lock bars that are tapered so that when viewed from the front, they seem thinner than they really are, but trust me, they are very thick, the locks are masterfully executed and as secure as a lock can be, the edge he puts on his blades is just thick enough to be strong, yet still cut well, his grinds tend to reinforce the tip area so that it's thicker than most and won't break off easily. Plus, they happen to be maybe the most precise, refined, smoothest folder money can buy, if you appreciate that sort of stuff, which I do. :)

Lately, I have seen some of them going for $600 or so, a year or 2 ago, they were far more, but prices have come down a bit, I think an XL TnT (4.25" blade) with a suitable blade type/grind, would serve you well, strength, cutting ability and refinement all in the same knife. Resale value is excellent, buy it right, you likely won't lose any money if you ever decide to sell it.

They can be had with 6K or Talonite blades for a corrosion-proof knife, though for a do anything knife, S30V is probably a much better choice, and he makes plenty with S30V.

In case you don't know what they look like, here are a few pics below.

I do agree the ER knives are extremely tough, but as was said, the blades and edges are so thick, they are very poor cutters, what good is sheer strength, if the knife won't cut? Striders are a very good choice as well, they are strong, and cut well too. While Strider may have had some QC issues at some point, it seems they have really gotten their sh*t together, and they are capable of producing a very well made folder.

Still, for me, the TnT is the finest folder available, it does everything so well, and does it with uncanny refinement and precision.

DSC06851%20copy.jpg


Picture%20022.jpg


Picture%20018.jpg
 
Good call on the lil hawks rhino I forgot about them and I own one lol. Very stout blades, not too thick and they can get and keep a good edge, there lock is very thick and strong. I dont know if it would beat out the other knives listed but its deffinatley up there with them.
 
barrabas74 said:
Good call on the lil hawks rhino I forgot about them and I own one lol. Very stout blades, not too thick and they can get and keep a good edge, there lock is very thick and strong. I dont know if it would beat out the other knives listed but its deffinatley up there with them.


Yeah, my Li'l Hawk is from ... a long time ago. It came from our local Target store when they phased out their guns and knives and it was CHEAP!

They go for about $120-140 now, which is a bargain for something that strong. I'm impressed with how sharp it can get. It cuts a lot better than any other knife I've handled that is even close to being that thick.
 
well, I'd say either the Tripwire, or a Jim Burke Ressurrection folder. Now THAT is tough, and cuts well too!!!

-Anthony
 
allenC said:
This got me thinking...would a folder be stronger if you eliminated the pivot and stop-pin all together?
But then it would'nt really be a folder, right?
Ah HAH!! So that's why those fixed blade knives keep selling!! ;)

allenC said:
And that got me thinking...how strong could one make an out-the-front knife (like some autos or the CRKT Rollock)?
You still have the same problems, just in different places. An OTF auto still relies on a smallish pin or latch to hold the blade open, which is much weaker than the blade, and a likely point of failure. You do, however eliminate the pivot; however, depending on how the blade is supported inside the handle, it may not be any stronger.

I found it amusing that the very first response to the question was the Spyderco Manix. I've got one, I love it, it's a great knife, but far from "the world's toughest". The pivot is an obvious weak point; it's no larger than that of many smaller knives I own, and Cliff Stamp's work with a Chinook (very similar mechanically) also found the pivot to be the weak spot.

Then there's the blade tip problem: the full-flat-ground-leaf profile of the Manix sure slices well, but leaves a very thin, weak tip. Amazingly, most of the Striders I've seen have the same failing; a passaround Strider AR got 1/4" of tip broken off, prying in soft pine. :eek: I'm not picking on the Manix or Strider specifically; I've seen very few knives with truly strong tip geometry.
 
Also check into a Strider GB. The tip profile is a bit stouter than the AR, making a better prying tool if that's what you are going to do with it. I have several GB's and love them.

John...
 
bquinlan said:
I love the design! What steel does it use?

--Bob Q

taken from their website

"Lakota's Mastercraft Series blades feature a special blend of AUS 8-A high carbon stainless steel formulated to a Rockwell hardness rating of C56-59."
 
nitrox1 said:
Also check into a Strider GB. The tip profile is a bit stouter than the AR, making a better prying tool if that's what you are going to do with it.
I was going to recommend the same thing.
 
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