Last Visible Canary
actively parsing hurf durf
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2006
- Messages
- 4,577
you are right about the fuller, for sure, i looked it up, i will admit that. Thank you Trevor for at least admiting that they were intended for fighters. Last Visible Canary, could you post some pics of what fighting knives that have good geometry to you would be? maybe a dagger, a single edge, a sword. I dont understand why you think the geometry of the aa, ak, and pbf are so bad. you dont want the blade to be so sharp it is brittle, and you do want the option of slashing and stabbing, hence the thinner profile. imo. i know the hook on the pbf's probably dont work that well, but i am sure it does in the hands of a trained fighter, it has an intended purpose, historically speaking. I would think you would not want the fighting knife to be too thin so that it wouldnt break under extreme punishment, then you would really be screwed, like kitchen knife thin?? Is that your ideal fighting knife thickness?
The gaurds that were used to catch weapons were much, much larger than the tiny little pbf blade catch. the japanese jutte was excellent at catching and even breaking swords as well as a general impact weapon, the pbf 'blade catch' just isn't big enough or long enough for that - and I wouldn't train for it even if it was. there are much safer things to do with your hands that try to catch and maneuver your opponents weapon, like cutting the weapon arm. Handling another persons edged weapon in a fight is dangerous, even for 'trained fighters'.
In the first post I have in this thread there's a series of busse knives I posted as what I consider good fighters. The boss jack is much thicker than I'd like, but after taking the edge down to 24 degree's I'm okay with where it's at. It much more of a utility blade than a fighter, but it has all the elements I look for in a fighter, even if it's a bit thicker than I'd like: secure grip, no snag points, thin edge (even if it thickens up quickly at the main grind), simple blade shape.
The sar5 mod has a busse combat stock custom shop edge on it - I was completely happy with it. It maintained the same thickness from ricasso to tip, was thick enough that it could take moderate abuse but thin enough right behind the edge that it sliced without me thinking "man this is kinda thick". When I resharpened it to 24 degree's, the edge bevel didn't get any wider, where as the boss jack's edge bevel got 4x as wide (showing how much metal I had to remove to get it there).
The thin NICK mod is actually cut down from one of the thin NICK busse kitchen knives. at .090" thick it was still plenty stiff and made for an awesome edc slicer and had all the elements I want in a fighter, including a thin spine and edge geometry.
my point is simply this: if your going to be cutting meat, you want something that is designed to cut meat. If your going to carry something for the purpose of fighting with it - have no misconceptions about what it's going to be like to actually use it. If you want to try something fancy with your knife like using a tiny blade catch: try it. Let your opponent hit you full force with gear on while your trying it, cause that's what it's gonna be like in real life (and worse).
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