UPDATE Hinderer Full Track Lock Stick

I had similar issues with my Full Track and Gen-6 XM-18 3".
The problem were solved by adjusting the steel inserts of both knives that were hanging (about 1to2 mm) out of the lock bars.
I have thought about that absolutely, but I didn’t know you could adjust them?
The steel insert seems pretty locked in there. Is there play when you loosen the screw? Any technical advice specifically?
Thanks for the post.

Below is what I’m saying about it looking like the insert isn’t adjustable(define adjust :) )
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I had similar issues with my Full Track and Gen-6 XM-18 3".
The problem were solved by adjusting the steel inserts of both knives that were hanging (about 1to2 mm) out of the lock bars.
I wouldn’t recommend for anyone to mess with the lockbar insert .
That’s just my opinion but I’d leave that up to warranty work at Hinderer .
 
I have thought about that absolutely, but I didn’t know you could adjust them?
The steel insert seems pretty locked in there. Is there play when you loosen the screw? Any technical advice specifically?
Thanks for the post.
That lockbar insert will also have an effect on your lockup and as I posted above and even if your experienced disassembling knives not something I would recommend doing with trial and error .
 
I have flipped the shit out of mine, every which way possible, seems fine. I'd go for the exchange if I had a problem.
 
By adjustable I think he's meaning that some of the gen 6's have issues with the lock insert not being fully seated. Here is a brand new one that had a burr or something underneath it that needed to be cleaned out and re-seated.

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I don’t know if this will help anyone out, but I experienced this with mine when I took it apart and cleaned up everything. I put it back together and it went back together easily. Flipped it open and I was in lock stick hell. It did it every time. I took it back apart and this time I pushed down hard on the pivot first when putting it back together and it made a loud snapping noise at the pivot. I tightened the pivot then the handle screws and it’s back to perfect again. I don’t know why it made that noise, but whatever it was fixed the issue.
 
So I've been working with it for quite a while. Cleaned the snot out of it (tang/steel insert on lockbar) with some alcohol. That already made a difference.
Also, used some anti-oxidant compound and flipped with that quite a few times, then cleaned it all off with alcohol, wash/rinse/repeat.
It is now behaving very well - about how it was out of the box. It might be a keeper. EDIT: Nope, lock stick is back. :(

In other news, my XM-18 3.5 Gen6 just arrived! It's NICE no lock stick to speak of. Very smooth - we'll see if it stays that way.

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Hate to say it but based on what I have read in this thread, I am definitely hesitating to pull the trigger on a FullTrack that I have been wanting.
 
Hate to say it but based on what I have read in this thread, I am definitely hesitating to pull the trigger on a FullTrack that I have been wanting.

I wouldn't hesitate. I very much doubt you'll have any issues and if you do, Hinderer will remedy this.
 
My Fulltrack had some stick when I first received it, but a disassembly/cleaning has resolved the issue. I did notice that the surface of the insert that mates with the blade has light machine lines that run at a 90° angle to the lock bar/insert movement.
 
My Fulltrack had some stick when I first received it, but a disassembly/cleaning has resolved the issue. I did notice that the surface of the insert that mates with the blade has light machine lines that run at a 90° angle to the lock bar/insert movement.

That cannot be the reason. Many flippers I have, XM-18s included, have that kind of non-smooth lockface, and all of them are sticky-free.
 
That cannot be the reason. Many flippers I have, XM-18s included, have that kind of non-smooth lockface, and all of them are sticky-free.
It would depend on the depth of the drag out lines and insert to blade contact area. I also checked the mating surface between the blade/lock bar on the XM-18 and it is .124" x .034". The Fulltrack has .256" x .046" contact area.
 
It is odd that Hinderer made the lock arm so short - this adds to the overall stiffness to unlock the arm. Compared to the XM 3.5, the lock arm could’ve been much longer which would’ve lessened the stiff feel a bit, without a compromise in strength.
This also would’ve made any lock stick less noticeable.
I talked with the awesome staff at DLT this evening, and we agreed a call with Hinderer is in order. I’ll call them tomorrow. I missed ‘em by 15 minutes today.

And to those who say this isn’t a systemic issue with the FT, it actually is.
I aim to find out what Hinderer is doing or is going to do about it.
 
I just got a RMA# on mine but I’m going to sleep on it because I like everything else about this knife so much .
I might just get store credit and go for a 24 since I had an older gen and liked it so this new tri-way should be slick with a nice lock bar release .
Man it’s a hard choice !
 
I just got a RMA# on mine but I’m going to sleep on it because I like everything else about this knife so much .
I might just get store credit and go for a 24 since I had an older gen and liked it so this new tri-way should be slick with a nice lock bar release .
Man it’s a hard choice !
Try putting a thick coating from a “Sharpie” marker on the lock contact area of the blade tang. Sharpies have always worked for me for curing lock stick. If it doesn’t work you can completely remove it with rubbing alcohol before you return it.
 
Try putting a thick coating from a “Sharpie” marker on the lock contact area of the blade tang. Sharpies have always worked for me for curing lock stick. If it doesn’t work you can completely remove it with rubbing alcohol before you return it.
For sure the sharpie trick works great a long with pencil led but the sharpie will last longer as I’ve done on some Medford’s , Emerson’s and Striders to name a few . With my Fulltrack I think it’s a first class example as I’m not feeling any lock stick what so ever . It’s just the tension of the lockbar and the shape of it a long with being Recessed so much it’s hard to get leverage . That combined with the shortness of it as mentioned in another post . You need a kungfu death grip and bite down a little with your teeth helps I’ve found lol . I’ve got a calis on my thumb and it Tore it off lol trying to break it in . It feels better but I think it’s going to be what it is . Fortunately I’m lefty so I’ve managed to to be able to open it with my left thumb pressing the side of pivot with my right to close it and it works well . I do miss being able to close it with either hand like with most other knives .
But again this knife shines in so many other areas it almost makes up for it .
But it does bother me I have to admit and that’s my delema at this point .
I really do love this knife With that a side .
 
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