- Joined
- Feb 2, 2010
- Messages
- 2,138
chiral.grolim, I think this is where we disagree. Youre reasoning is logically correct, but there are other factors. So lets say in that diagram, instead of something uniform like a stack of cardboard, it is just a car hood with nothing below it. Let's say the two blades are both made of sufficiently thick identical steel stock, and are heat treated right, etc, but one has a 1" taper, and one has a 2" taperFor this image (assuming dimensions not shown are equivalent) the profile on the right is the long/slow taper and will be easier (i.e. require less force) to penetrate through whatever substance to a given depth due to the reduced surface area compared to the profile on the left which better approximates the western-tanto shape.
But what I was typing about previously regarded spine-width/taper, though the point is the same: force divided-by surface area, the pith of edge-angle "sharpness". The profile on the right will penetrate the car-hood more easily, i.e. it requires less strength with the tapered or japanese-tanto blade than the western-tanto.
Now, if the steel/HT require the extra support-metal of a western-tanto to accomplish this task without significant edge/blade damage, I would consider the extra required force a worthy sacrifice!
Yes, the 2" taper would require less force to penetrate further into the steel door. But if I am not sufficiently strong, and I just stab with all my force into the car hood, I may only get 1.25" penetration on the americanized tanto, which is enough to continue to slide in easily.
For the 2" taper, I would penetrate further, say 1.75". But then, I am stuck with .25" of widening blade, that I will be unable to shove into the solid steel car hood, since I don't have the benefit of momentum and gravity.
The 1" taper capitilizes on that initial contact, so I quickly punch a hole big enough to accomodate the full width of the blade, and then it will slide in easy.
Now given a strong enough person, it may still be possible, but a short taper is still ideal for this kind of "armor piercing" effect. Now if I have a FULL tapered dagger style blade, I may be able to get a whole 2.5" of penetration initially, but I will be unable to push the remaining length of the blade in.
This might be kind of confusing, and I apologize that I am not explaining this really well.
:thumbup::thumbup: I would insert the phrase "more easily" at the end of the bolded section (since there are examples of this on non-tanto styles), but THAT is imho one of the biggest advantages of the design. You can add extra support to that "armor-piercing" tip while keeping a thin main edge...
It could also be ground the other way around if user prefers (as seen on some WC Davis knives, though his aren't tanto).
:thumbup: Absolutely, and yeah I forgot, there are some knives to do feature the double grind, and I wish more people did!