Very impressed with the Ken Onion Work Sharp with Blade Grinder attachment

Happened to run across a video today (I'd seen before) of a guy making a small knife using the front of the BGA, thought it fit into the conversation...

[video=youtube_share;_qI7_LGddZU]http://youtu.be/_qI7_LGddZU[/video]
(Skip to around 7:55 if you just want to see the grinding).
 
Happened to run across a video today (I'd seen before) of a guy making a small knife using the front of the BGA, thought it fit into the conversation...

I was going to say no thank, I'm not interested in making knives with my KOWS (why wouldn't he get beefier equipment?). But I learned 3 new things from the video - most important was how to adjust if the belt is running to the left or to the right. I really don't think that's covered in the paper manual or the dvd that came with the part.
 
I was going to say no thank, I'm not interested in making knives with my KOWS (why wouldn't he get beefier equipment?). But I learned 3 new things from the video - most important was how to adjust if the belt is running to the left or to the right. I really don't think that's covered in the paper manual or the dvd that came with the part.
Belt tracking is covered in the manual.
 
The Ken onion work sharp with the blade grinding attachment is an awesome set up. I absolutely love mine, and recommend it to anyone. The work sharp itself is good, but has limitations which are eliminated with the blade grinding attachment. It also yields far better results.


Also for even better results save a well worn 12k grit belt, and go to local hardware store and pick up a block of Emory compound (or stropping compound). Start the machine and rub it on the belt. Works great after using the normal belts for fine polishing and honing.
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That looks AWESOME Bobby!

May I ask a huge favour? Can you snap a quick pic of the compound you used on the belt so I can be sure to get the same?
 
That looks AWESOME Bobby!

May I ask a huge favour? Can you snap a quick pic of the compound you used on the belt so I can be sure to get the same?
I don't have the packaging anymore, but I got it from tru-value. It's found over by the sanding belts and discs...It's Emory buffing compound, it'll look like a grayish black block about 1"W x 4"L. It'll likely be the only kind like it, the other ones are different colors like white brown, and red.
 
Np it works great on a worn 12k belt... it literally took an edge that could barely cut phone book paper cleanly and made an edge that could whittle hair. All in about 10 passes per side.
 
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I also got the new stropping kit from worksharp. Comes with two belts and a green and red compound. At least they specify the green is Chromium Oxide and the red is Ferric Oxide. I think most people know the colors already. They recommend a medium to fast speed.

It shines it enough for me. There's not much to shine as I don't have just a big bevel.

I did learn that with stropping, very light touch is needed. The first time I tried it, the edge got dulled pretty quickly. I think it was a good lesson in what light touch when stropping means. I've carried it over to my manual stropping.
 
I also got the new stropping kit from worksharp. Comes with two belts and a green and red compound. At least they specify the green is Chromium Oxide and the red is Ferric Oxide. I think most people know the colors already. They recommend a medium to fast speed.

It shines it enough for me. There's not much to shine as I don't have just a big bevel.

I did learn that with stropping, very light touch is needed. The first time I tried it, the edge got dulled pretty quickly. I think it was a good lesson in what light touch when stropping means. I've carried it over to my manual stropping.
Is it a soft flexible belt? If so you will benefit from decreasing your angle before stropping...The belts that lack the stiff backing will wrap over your edge fairly easy and dull it like you've experienced...The slightly lower angle will help prevent it.
 
I also got the new stropping kit from worksharp. Comes with two belts and a green and red compound. At least they specify the green is Chromium Oxide and the red is Ferric Oxide. I think most people know the colors already. They recommend a medium to fast speed.

It shines it enough for me. There's not much to shine as I don't have just a big bevel.

I did learn that with stropping, very light touch is needed. The first time I tried it, the edge got dulled pretty quickly. I think it was a good lesson in what light touch when stropping means. I've carried it over to my manual stropping.
Where'd you get em? They're not listed on their website...
 
Haffner,

NICE! I've never seen that pack before.

For anyone who gets one of these packs, would you mind posting some of the edge shots? I might have to pick these up as well!
 
Sweet I've been checking the work sharp page for these since they discontinued the leather belt...just ordered a set..I'll update after I get em.

Btw if you see the leather kit in stock somewhere don't buy it..It was causing allot of problems with blowing the motor on the work sharp or breaking...that's why they came out with these
 
No, it's a new set with two cloth belts plus green and red stopping compound.

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/WSKTS-KO-Blade-Grinder-Stropping-Kit-P679.aspx

Can anyone tell, what are the particle sizes?
I haven't got one yet, so let's hear your experiences!!!
If it's the same green compound they used on the leather belt and their upgrade kit for the guided sharper then it is suppose to be .5 micron thou it appears a lil coarse compared to other .5 micron green compound I've had...
 
I'm picking these up now!

I'm wondering what the difference is between Red and White compound?

I use the White and Green on my strop with good results, so I might load these up the same way. That way I can run a worn 12K belt with the Black emory compound Bobby has had (and posted) such great results with, and use the white and green for a SUPER polish on some more high-end knives.
 
No, it's a new set with two cloth belts plus green and red stopping compound.

Can anyone tell, what are the particle sizes?
I haven't got one yet, so let's hear your experiences!!!

They don't specify in their website but as you can see, they specify Chromium Oxide and Ferric Oxide. Elsewhere, I found that Chromium Oxide is .5 micron and Ferric Oxide is .1 micron. I'm thinking this is a universal standard in that you can pressing down on them, they end up to be those sized particles?

As an aside, I take it that Ferric Oxide is simply rust that is pulverized.

As far as my experience goes, I like the uniformity of the surface pattern from the belt. I can't appreciate the mirror bevel as it's a small bevel for my sight. I am impressed at how much sharper the blade was after the two stroppings.

For anyone who gets one of these packs, would you mind posting some of the edge shots? I might have to pick these up as well!

Here are two pics I just took now with my iphone. It's been about a week after carrying it and light use of opening food packages and amazon boxes. I hope the reflection shows well enough.




 
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They don't specify in their website but as you can see, they specify Chromium Oxide and Ferric Oxide. Elsewhere, I found that Chromium Oxide is .5 micron and Ferric Oxide is .1 micron. I'm thinking this is a universal standard in that you can pressing down on them, they end up to be those sized particles?

As an aside, I take it that Ferric Oxide is simply rust that is pulverized.

As far as my experience goes, I like the uniformity of the surface pattern from the belt. I can't appreciate the mirror bevel as it's a small bevel for my sight. I am impressed at how much sharper the blade was after the two stroppings.



Here are two pics I just took now with my iphone. It's been about a week after carrying it and light use of opening food packages and amazon boxes. I hope the reflection shows well enough.





Looks Great!
 
I'm picking these up now!

I'm wondering what the difference is between Red and White compound?

I use the White and Green on my strop with good results, so I might load these up the same way. That way I can run a worn 12K belt with the Black emory compound Bobby has had (and posted) such great results with, and use the white and green for a SUPER polish on some more high-end knives.
White is usually a medium grit (cut and polish) green is usually a fine compound (lil cut more polish) red is usually finer ( no cut primarily for polishing)


So I'd say use the Emory on 12k belt, use white, then green on the belts and save red for a manual strop for final touch's and polishing
 
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