Very impressed with the Ken Onion Work Sharp with Blade Grinder attachment

Bobby3326 said:
White is usually a medium grit (cut and polish) green is usually a fine compound (lil cut more polish) red is usually finer ( no cut primarily for polishing)
So I'd say use the Emory on 12k belt, use white, then green on the belts and save red for a manual strop for final touch's and polishing
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Yeah, that's what I was planning on doing with the belts. Good call on saving the red for the strop.
 
Bobby3326 said:
I don't have the packaging anymore, but I got it from tru-value. It's found over by the sanding belts and discs...It's Emory buffing compound, it'll look like a grayish black block about 1"W x 4"L. It'll likely be the only kind like it, the other ones are different colors like white brown, and red.
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Do you know if that is similar to the stuff I put on my strop. Not sure of manufacturers, got it on ksf. Thanks!
 
Bobby3326 said:
I'd imagine it's fairly close to the black compounds sold for strops maybe slightly more coarse....
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My bad, should of read the rest of the thread. Pretty much explained it. I have black (coarse) and green (fine). Been eyeing up that set up for a while.
 
Glock Guy said:
Haffner,

NICE! I've never seen that pack before.

For anyone who gets one of these packs, would you mind posting some of the edge shots? I might have to pick these up as well!
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Well you see, because the price is more than 10 USD, buying this kit from the US will cost me 64 USD, when I've paid the shipping plus the Danish VAT and import fees! :mad:

If the price given on the customs form would be less than 10 USD, the belt kit would only cost me a total of 33 USD.:grief:

So unless someone in the US will receive the belt kit for me and send it on to me in Denmark putting the price on the customs form as less than 10 USD, I will have to wait until the new belt kit becomes available here in Europe!:playful:

Haffner
 
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Haffner said:
Well you see, because the price is more than 10 USD, buying this kit from the US will cost me 64 USD, when I've paid the shipping plus the Danish VAT and import fees! :mad:

If the price given on the customs form would be less than 10 USD, the belt kit would only cost me a total of 33 USD.:grief:

So unless someone in the US will receive the belt kit for me and send it on to me in Denmark putting the price on the customs form as less than 10 USD, I will have to wait until the new belt kit becomes available here in Europe![emoji14]layful:

Haffner
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You might be better off just wearing out some 12k belts and use those lol I was griping about em costing $23.
 
For those of you that are using the BGA for normal (kitchen knives, shop knives, etc.) use, where you don't need to take off a bunch of metal, what is your normal belt progression??
 
Glock Guy said:
For those of you that are using the BGA for normal (kitchen knives, shop knives, etc.) use, where you don't need to take off a bunch of metal, what is your normal belt progression??
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If it's a average steel that just needs touched up, no Knicks or edge damage I'll use the x22 then just strop it...if there's damage or I need to reset the bevel or a highly wear resistant steel I'll start on either the x65, if I feel it's not doing what I want ill drop down to the p120. If I want a toothy edge I'll use the x65 and debur on the stropping belt.

For the most part thou once I do my initial sharpening to set the bevels I will primarily start on either the x22, or x4 for maintaining my edge from then on. I won't use the course belts again unless I've damage the edge, I'm changing my angle, it's a high wear resistant steel, or just want it toothy.


If it's still sharp, but you just wanna maintain it after use starting on the x4 belt and going up should be sufficient.
 
I use linen belts on the original worksharp, KO and the grinder attachment as well as the Kalamazoo, 1x30" amd 2x72" grinders using CBN abrasive going from 80 microns to as fine as 0.1 microns (160k grit).

---
Ken
 
ksskss said:
I use linen belts on the original worksharp, KO and the grinder attachment as well as the Kalamazoo, 1x30" amd 2x72" grinders using CBN abrasive going from 80 microns to as fine as 0.1 microns (160k grit).

---
Ken
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And how can I go about figuring where you get those linen belts and CBN abrasives that will fit the grinder attachment? Thanks.

I ask because out of several names to google given by people here, I was only able to find one source for 1x18 belts.
 
If these belts hold up well I plan on getting more to use with 16, 8, 4, 2, 1, .5 and .1 cbn. Should produce near prefect edges.
 
Glock Guy said:
I just got mine in the mail today, too! Looking forward to playing with these this week.
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My dilemma is I don't have any knives that need any further honing at the moment lol...I posted a video on fb from when I was testing the edge and the remarks were that it was beyond scary sharp and more like horrifyingly sharp lol.

I'll have to wait until my new knife gets here on Wed or thurs to test em.
 
Bobby3326 said:
My dilemma is I don't have any knives that need any further honing at the moment lol...I posted a video on fb from when I was testing the edge and the remarks were that it was beyond scary sharp and more like horrifyingly sharp lol.

I'll have to wait until my new knife gets here on Wed or thurs to test em.
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Do you have a link to the vid? You can PM it to me if you'd like as I'd love to see it.
 
Bobby,

I know you listed your belt progression in an earlier post, but may I ask what your angles you used (grind and strop/finish) to produce an edge like that?
 
Glock Guy said:
Bobby,

I know you listed your belt progression in an earlier post, but may I ask what your angles you used (grind and strop/finish) to produce an edge like that?
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I mainly keep the machine set on 15° with the lower pulley in its higher position for initial sharpening and set my bevel and polish it. Then afterwards I bump it up to 17°-20° and do a few light passes on the x22 for a "toothy" micro bevel or go up in grits for a polished one. Then I used my strop with green compound followed by stropping with flitz on a paint stick.

I also keep the belts as tight as possible without it showing the over tensioned mark.


I also sometimes just leave it set to 17° and adjust my approach to the belt higher or lower depending on what I'm going for.
 
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