W.R. Case & Tony Bose Collaboration 2009 - Norfolk Wharncliffe

Thanks for these replies.
eswartz, your pics are v. helpful. shows me what to expect. in first pic. it looks like scale does not go all the way to the bottom of the liner near the center pin(correct name ?). is that artifact ? i.e. scale to liner match is actually fine ?
Kerry, i humbly disagree with you. for the price of these knives, the scales should be radiused fully to the liners. that the fitting of the scales is the same as the regular Case knives which cost about 1/5 the price of the Norfolk, is, i think, rather 'cheap'. the 5x great price is for the better steel and better fit and finish.
i wonder if Mr. Bose had any input into the degree of fit and finish of the ebony scales and if he is satisfied with non radiused scales on these knives that bear his name ?
however i'm still going to get one, and ebony is my favorite.
roland
 
The best thing I know to do is post what a T.Bose Norfolk knife looks like...this is how Tony makes them. As you can see, his is just a bit more round, doesn't have the corners that you see on the production model.

T.Bose-Norfolk-1.jpg
 
Thanks for these replies.
eswartz, your pics are v. helpful. shows me what to expect. in first pic. it looks like scale does not go all the way to the bottom of the liner near the center pin(correct name ?). is that artifact ? i.e. scale to liner match is actually fine ?

I don't see exactly what you are referring to in the picture, but I think I know what you mean. I don't see any problem with the scale/liner fit
 
Kerry is that amber jigged bone T. Bose for sale ?;) (then i would have a radiused Norfolk !)
are scales attached slightly oversized and then ground or sanded down to be flush with liners ?
how much extra work is it to then radius the edge ?
partly why this bothers me is i recently received a FB knife directly from China. the scales are ebony and nicely radiused on all edges. it cost $20 including shipping.
i don't expect American made knives to compete price wise, but would like them to exceed in all aspects of quality, including finishing details.
roland
 
The scales are put on oversized and ground down to meet the liners.

I don't think that radiusing the scales has anything to do with the quality of fit or finish. It can be done or not depending on what the designer wants.

This is not a fit or finish issue in my mind. When people say it should be radiused, that is just their preference, not an unassailable fact.
 
The scales are put on oversized and ground down to meet the liners.

I don't think that radiusing the scales has anything to do with the quality of fit or finish. It can be done or not depending on what the designer wants.

This is not a fit or finish issue in my mind. When people say it should be radiused, that is just their preference, not an unassailable fact.

Don't forget this is a tool, versus something just pretty to look at, and rounding the handle over so that it isn't "offensive to the hand" (to quote Tony) is desirable. It's all about making knives that should be very hand friendly. ;)

Alas, most buyers of these knives WON'T BE USING THEM so, the point is moot.

At ease...smoke 'em if ya got 'em. :p
 
Just to say, I am not trying to be a fanboy for Tony Bose. I like the knife, but don't think I will be using it regularly. If I did, I would have to change some things.

Radiusing the edges might be nice.

There are some waves in the ebony that I would like to see flattened out.

Also the small blade is a bear to get out. With a combo of tight spring and recessed in such a way that I can't easily get a nail under it. I would have to make the nail cutout in the wood a little bigger.

I may do these things, given enough time and thought. It is kinda hard to take the grinder to it right away. I tend to be a carryer and user, but do have to fight with my collector side occasionally.
 
Mine has been onboard for a week now(Antique Bone)cutting string,pakets,boxes open, and slicing fruit up. I intend to use it like all the knives I like, if it get's busted or lost-well, that would be sad but it's all part of knife-use.

Don't have a gripe about the pen-blade opening, I very much like the spring strength all round. The bone and the corner of the bolsters are a bit sharp-due I suppose to the jigging going all the way to the bolster.

Overall, the elegance of the knife and its individuality is very impressive, of course I could be biased as I like pen-knives/single-spring knives. It looks like an antique knife pattern in modern materials and this is a major achievement-all the more reason for actually using it!
 
I don't think there are any real advantages to one over the other. I have had guys tell me they won't buy the Ebony because it cracks to which I say bull butter, I have several Ebony scaled knives that are well over 100 yrs. old and still in great condition. So it comes down to what you like. :thumbup:

(subliminal message... get the Ebony, get the Ebony, get the Ebony) :D
Thanks for the info. I have not dealt with ebony at all and wasn't sure if there was something I was missing.
I'm sure any natural material can crack over time...ebony, bone, stag. Depending on the enviroment or if there are hidden "flaws" in the material. I've seem some gorgeous and expensive briar smoking pipes burn out because there was a hidden hole or air pocket in the briar.

Wow, that subliminal stuff must really work!
Found an Ebony at a resaonalble price and its on the way next week. Now all I'll need to do is send it to you for radiusing :)
 
Don't forget this is a tool, versus something just pretty to look at, and rounding the handle over so that it isn't "offensive to the hand" (to quote Tony) is desirable. It's all about making knives that should be very hand friendly. ;)

Alas, most buyers of these knives WON'T BE USING THEM so, the point is moot.

At ease...smoke 'em if ya got 'em. :p

Wouldn't the point be moot only if nobody was using them ? ;)

The Case / Bose model I had for awhile ( 2000 year model ) , was great , felt very nice in the hand , the only thing I disliked and forced me to sell it what I would need steel finger nails just to open it . The pull was way too stiff for me , and I prefer them on the stiff side , but not on the impossible to open side.

How is the pull on the Norfolk ?
 
I came into this thread late on but thanks to the excellent answers to the questions i asked, i have learned a fair bit. so thanks y'all !
To Alann45: if you like vintage knives, some of the best ever made are from USA companies roughly about 100 years ago. Miller Bros., Walden Knife Co., Schrade Cut. Co. and others. ebony was often used on these and as already said, these scales are still in fine condition even on the knives that show evidence of much use.
so i like the ebony on this Norfolk because it is so Traditional and therefore is completely in character for a Traditional pattern. bonus is: it will probably wear the best of any of the other choices. chipping, pin cracks, etc. are unlikely to occur.
roland
 
How is the pull on the Norfolk ?

My antique bone version just right. Both nail nicks are easy to reach, and the spring tension is firm, snappy, smooth and consistent without even approaching nail-breaker status; right up there with a decent custom slippie.
 
Well, thanks to a fellow Folksy Forumite and good friend, I now have one of these babies in my possession.

Dang, these are nice. :D
 
Thankee kindly, Vince. :)

I dunno if this pic-heavy thread can hold any more without bursting at the seams, but what the hell...

For those who plan to EDC their Norfolk but don't like fishing for a horizontally floundering slippie amid the usual accumulation of spare change and lint that inhabit the average pocket, there's good news! :cool: William Henry's 'medium' clipcase fits this knife to a tee. Looky here:

Clipcase02.jpg

Clipcase01.jpg


These things are perfect for keeping your knife clean and instantly accessible at the top of your pocket.

i was still dithering about spending money i don't have, and was re-reading the entire thread, and the above post #27 jumped out at me.
i bought one of those sheaths on ebay a couple of years ago for $5.
now i know why !
so i just ordered an Ebony Norfolk from Sooner State.
that's called "rationalization".
i asked Kenny to check for nail-breaker spring and that spring and liners be flush when closed, and he said all o.k.
see, BF is both a Gem and a Curse.
roland
 
The only reason I bought my ebony Norfolk was because I figured I might find one of those William Henry clip cases by the side of road sometime and I would need a knife to put in it.
:D
 
This thread and you guys are killing me here. I just bought a second Norfolk and this one will be ebony.

Is it just me or could this be one of the finest EDC knives ever? I've had a lot of fancy knives come and go but I've never been so taken by a pattern the way I have been by this one. I've never owned a "spare" before so this one is breaking all the records for me.
 
My Ebony arrived today.
The Ebony is smooth and consistent. Not quite as contoured as I might like, but not uncomfortable to the hand.
Nearly perfect; some small over-enthusiastic "polishing" lines on the back spine near the peak but not really offensive.
Blade pull is firm and crisp but not nail breaking.

The suede zipper pouch is a nice touch.

Now all I need is one of the of those nice lil sheaths and I'll be set. Can't really see dumping this in my pocket with the spare change.
 
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