Wanna Help Design The Busse "Woodcraft" Knife????

Shotgun wrote: »The bottom one should say "Busscraft."«

Randucci wrote: »I would still like to see the bottom knife with a much smaller choil.«

Bronco wrote: »I wonder how the top one would look if the spine hump were shifted back a bit to allow for a thinner, more penetrating point?«

Here you are, gentleman:

Bussmuk2.jpg


Busscraft.jpg
 
Shotgun wrote: »The bottom one should say "Busscraft."«

Randucci wrote: »I would still like to see the bottom knife with a much smaller choil.«

Bronco wrote: »I wonder how the top one would look if the spine hump were shifted back a bit to allow for a thinner, more penetrating point?«

Here you are, gentleman:

Bussmuk2.jpg


Busscraft.jpg



There you go, I like those, Great job!!!! :eek:
 
I like the knife on bottom. Either the choil has to be large enough to be useful, or eliminate it altogether and have a longer cutting edge.
 
I like the knife on bottom. Either the choil has to be large enough to be useful, or eliminate it altogether and have a longer cutting edge.

I like at least a very small choil as it makes sharpening a blade much easier. The small choil lets your sharpening stone run out and end at the opening instead of running into the plunge line. :D
 
Hey! Why not have a Busse Combat Kukri to add to the new line of outdoor busses? :D, Has there been a Busse kukri?
 
Nice job Samek, I'd prefer a touch more traditional on the nessmuk, but they both look good. I know it's against normal Busse logic, but I'd really like them 1/8" or even 3/32" thick. You could still do an LE at .315" or so!!
 
I second thinner steel. The toughness of INFI and the shorter blade make up for it.
 
Nice job Samek, I'd prefer a touch more traditional on the nessmuk, but they both look good. I know it's against normal Busse logic, but I'd really like them 1/8" or even 3/32" thick. You could still do an LE at .315" or so!!

:thumbup:

To me these look just about perfect. I would agree with the thinner steel and just a tweak with "wave" or curve to the top one's line to make it more traditional.

Great mock ups that still shout Busse... :)
 
3.5-4" blade
0.1 to .125" thick
15/16-1" wide
Rust resistant blade but no coating
Flat grind
Hint of a guard on the handle
4-4.5 inch handle oval shape but fills the medium to large hand
Dense attractive wood or Micarta handle material (customers choice)
 
oooooooooooooooooooooh.... rereading the first post a few times, It appears that jerry is looking for an updated nesmuck design specifically, rather then just any wood craft design... that changes things a little.

well then you have to design a hatchet to go with it.... you just have to....
 
heres my entry, which falls under the mid sized batonable category, but not large enough to really chop on its own.

its based on the battle bolo design, which is fairly nessmuky to begin with. the only thing its really lacking is the up swept long curved edge. You could almost just bring it back with slight blade modifications and you'd have a ready to go nessmuk chopper.

from bussecollector.com:
Bolo_3%20(Small).jpg


you could probably remove the top gaurd hump and have it still work just fine, or at least make it smaller...

attachment.php
 
attachment.php


I like it better without the top gaurd hump...

at 1/8" thick or possibly a bit thinner (NICK thinness), that would be a pretty cool blade.... maybe a little big for being so thin, but then I'm not a knife designer....



I'm not sure if this has been pointed out, but the buffalo soldier is kind of close to the general idea of this thread (from bussecollector.com):
BuffaloSoldier.jpg


update the handle a little, and potentially lose the choil and you have something thats pretty good lookin'. I'd like a handle that doesn't have as much of an index finger drop off, which was always my problem with the 3rd gen handles. the buffalo soldiers were ground thin too.
 
attachment.php


I wish I had more time to spend on these... :(

Take the steel heart handle platform and general size, but add belly (actually drop the belly down more so the blade is taller), and upsweep the tip. the forward swedge is for tip penetration, but not necessarily needed. make that thing .315" thick, and you've got a mammoth chopper in a small package.

this is a pretty simple mod of an existing blade, and if it were done like this I'd like to be done in a way that really changes the overall feel of it, rather then just a small change in grinds. I'd like the entire thing to be more blade heavy, where you really feel the adition of the top upward swept section, and the lower belly.

I wish I had more time to do something with the handle to make it different then "just" a fusion handle... but dang it, I love the fusion handles!

I fear that this particular design strays to far into scagel territory, but I also fear that upsweeping the blade to be at a complete upward angle from the handle would make chopping hazardous to the wrist. generally t o increase power you tilt the blade downward instead of up.
 
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