We were all new here once

Beat me, Whip me, call me dirty names.

So I guess ya want to know about me. In 1970, I got my driver's license, went to Jimi Hendrix's house, and forged my first blade from a file.
Did martial arts since I was 11, Sword since I was 50.
I only want the best blades I can afford, because if I have to use them, I want to be able to trust my life to them.
I spent the 70s-90s in Army. I carried a Gerber MKII until it broke on a rib bone. The I went to a Buck Master first gen. Some one offered me 3x what I paid for it.
Lastly I used a Ontario Raider Bowie. When I retire in 92 I gave it to my little sister for S&R work.
Now I carry a DGW Searle's Bowie, and it is the nattiest sharp metal next to my katana which is made from the same steel as the bowie, but is a folded blade, where the bowie is not.
Since the law changes here is washingrad, I have to build a big bowie for my truck.
Thats why I am here. Its been decades since Ive made a knife, so Im here to learn.

and to figure why I cant find the avatar and signature line in the preferences.
So someone PM me and tell me Im a blind ole man.

First off, welcome to Bladeforums L Lovebell Forrest

In order for you to send or receive a DM, you need to have at least a Basic Paid Membership ($10/year). Right now you have a free registered membership.

For the Avatar and signature line, you also need a paid membership too.

This will also allow you to have the ability to Directly upload and post pictures directly from whatever device you happen to be using, instead of having to use a image hosting site (at your free membership level, that you now must use at your free level).

While the Basic is just $10/year, the Gold is $30/year, which gives you so much more of an availability of total DM’s, more pictures, a larger signature, and the ability to sell knives and gadgets too.

Here is a direct link to the paid membership levels:


Unless you purchase a Knifemakers membership, you cannot post in the Knifemakers sub forum, but you are free to read it (Around the Grinder):


You are free to post in the Maintenance, Tinkering and Embellishment at any level, including the free registered level which you now have:


Lastly, Thank You for your service to our country 👍

Hope this helps you a bit.
 
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Hi. Joined because I was searching for info on one of my pocket knives. Was getting nowhere fast. I've a keen interest in knives, being a butcher means it's fairly central to my life. I use victorinox knives at work but am looking to move to caribou as they are a harder steel. I'm very much an oil stone fan, not keen on machines.
Daily I have 3 pocket knives, an opinel no9, an old Chinese made lock knife which actually holds a really good edge and my solingen, and it's this one I'm trying to find info on. How old it is etc. I've had it 30yrs. It's brutally sharp, quite short at under 3", can be thumb opened and the blade still sits snug, not loose at all. Overall it's about 5 1/2" and it curves from tip to heel. Can't work out how to post an image.
 
Hi. Joined because I was searching for info on one of my pocket knives. Was getting nowhere fast. I've a keen interest in knives, being a butcher means it's fairly central to my life. I use victorinox knives at work but am looking to move to caribou as they are a harder steel. I'm very much an oil stone fan, not keen on machines.
Daily I have 3 pocket knives, an opinel no9, an old Chinese made lock knife which actually holds a really good edge and my solingen, and it's this one I'm trying to find info on. How old it is etc. I've had it 30yrs. It's brutally sharp, quite short at under 3", can be thumb opened and the blade still sits snug, not loose at all. Overall it's about 5 1/2" and it curves from tip to heel. Can't work out how to post an image.

Welcome to Bladeforums tristanw.

In order to post pictures at your membership level you need to use a photo hosting site like Imgur.com.

If you're not familiar with Imgur, here is a link to a tutorial I created for how to post pictures here using Imgur. Just click on the box below-
 
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Hi all. I just joined and had a couple of questions. I know it's not a rule, but is it fair to say I need a paid membership to buy on the exchange? I don't see how else to communicate the details of the exchange without having access to private messaging. Also, if you decide to change membership tiers do you just pay the difference? I've never paid for access to a forum before, so this is new to me. Thanks.
 
Hi all. I just joined and had a couple of questions. I know it's not a rule, but is it fair to say I need a paid membership to buy on the exchange? I don't see how else to communicate the details of the exchange without having access to private messaging. Also, if you decide to change membership tiers do you just pay the difference? I've never paid for access to a forum before, so this is new to me. Thanks.

Welcome to Bladeforums OldGrandDad :) .

First, you don't need to be a paid member to buy on the Exchange, but there are members (maybe a lot of members) who won't sell to a non-paying member for the simple reason that without a paid membership you cannot send and receive private messages, and that ability is important for buying and selling on this forum (for the following reason)-

There are people, not members, but scammers, who monitor the Exchange looking for people wanting to buy knives, and when a member says "I'll take it", the scammer will search the forum looking for any sort of contact info that member has ever posted, like an email address or a phone number, and the scammer will use that info to contact the member, pretending to be the seller, and requesting electronic payment. Several members have been scammed out of their money by such tactics.

So, don't be surprised if some members won't sell to you at your current membership level, and if someone is willing to sell, don't send money to anyone unless you are absolutely sure that you are sending it to the seller. This is where private messages prove their value. If you want to buy knives on this forum, don't ever post any contact info anywhere but in private messages (scammers can't see private messages).

As far as changing/upgrading paid membership levels, it's been awhile since I did it, but I believe you are correct, that you just pay the difference and the change is made. But the change has to be performed manually by the owner of the forum, so it might take a little time.

If you have any questions about paid memberships, or any issues after you have purchased a paid membership, post your questions in this sub-forum- https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/tech-support-general-q-a-site-feedback-move.679/ and the people who run this site will see it and provide you with the right answers.

Enjoy the forum. And watch out for scammers. :)
 
As far as changing/upgrading paid membership levels, it's been awhile since I did it, but I believe you are correct, that you just pay the difference and the change is made.
That’s incorrect, you pay full price for the upgraded membership and whatever time is left on the old membership gets prorated to the upgraded extending its length of time.
 
That’s incorrect, you pay full price for the upgraded membership and whatever time is left on the old membership gets prorated to the upgraded extending its length of time.
Thank you for the correction. Like I said, it's been awhile. And I did recommend that he ask in the Tech forum to get "the right answers". :)
 
Welcome to Bladeforums OldGrandDad :) .

First, you don't need to be a paid member to buy on the Exchange, but there are members (maybe a lot of members) who won't sell to a non-paying member for the simple reason that without a paid membership you cannot send and receive private messages, and that ability is important for buying and selling on this forum (for the following reason)-

There are people, not members, but scammers, who monitor the Exchange looking for people wanting to buy knives, and when a member says "I'll take it", the scammer will search the forum looking for any sort of contact info that member has ever posted, like an email address or a phone number, and the scammer will use that info to contact the member, pretending to be the seller, and requesting electronic payment. Several members have been scammed out of their money by such tactics.

So, don't be surprised if some members won't sell to you at your current membership level, and if someone is willing to sell, don't send money to anyone unless you are absolutely sure that you are sending it to the seller. This is where private messages prove their value. If you want to buy knives on this forum, don't ever post any contact info anywhere but in private messages (scammers can't see private messages).

As far as changing/upgrading paid membership levels, it's been awhile since I did it, but I believe you are correct, that you just pay the difference and the change is made. But the change has to be performed manually by the owner of the forum, so it might take a little time.

If you have any questions about paid memberships, or any issues after you have purchased a paid membership, post your questions in this sub-forum- https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/tech-support-general-q-a-site-feedback-move.679/ and the people who run this site will see it and provide you with the right answers.

Enjoy the forum. And watch out for scammers. :)

That’s incorrect, you pay full price for the upgraded membership and whatever time is left on the old membership gets prorated to the upgraded extending its length of time.
Thank you both for the replies - I appreciate the help. Good info on the scammer tactics here too. I've seen a bunch of it on other platforms.
 
I appreciate this thread. I’m new here, as I imagine with some number of members, I landed here while searching for info. Knives have largely been tools for me, with a couple of exceptions. I bought a Lone Wolf Paul knife I estimate about 20 years ago, and just never carried it. Found it in the original tin amongst a pile of S&W Performance Center cases, thought I’d look it up. Turns out I went down the rabbit hole, have purchased 4 new knives since joining here 6 weeks ago.
 
I appreciate this thread. I’m new here, as I imagine with some number of members, I landed here while searching for info. Knives have largely been tools for me, with a couple of exceptions. I bought a Lone Wolf Paul knife I estimate about 20 years ago, and just never carried it. Found it in the original tin amongst a pile of S&W Performance Center cases, thought I’d look it up. Turns out I went down the rabbit hole, have purchased 4 new knives since joining here 6 weeks ago.

Welcome :) .


.
 
Might as well say hello.

I've been lurking BF on and off for...decades... I thought I remembered having an account here at one point, not terribly active, would've been prior to 2007. None of my old handles are registered, though, except one, which could've been me if it wasn't so recent. Not worried about it. I wasn't banned or anything.

I've only been worming my way back into the hobby the past few years. I was an old school knife admirer until the '90's when I caught a bug for movie knives and weird fantasy stuff, but couldn't see spending much money on such frivolous things. I picked up some blades I liked here and there, enough that friends and family saw me as a knife guy, and so about half of my collection then was gifts. I missed the whole EDC fad, which is to say that I've had pretty much the same SAK Classic and Gerber Multi-plier in my pockets since 1997. Those were occasionally joined by hunting or fishing knives when I made more time for those activities, or any of my other favorite lockbacks if I expected to need them, but otherwise most of my meager collection has lived in cardboard boxes in the attic for the better part of 25 years.

There before the plague, we were laughing with some friends about "mall ninja knives." First time I'd heard the term. "Don't you have that one?" my buddy pointed to a pic on his phone. "Yep," I replied with a great big grin. It was the Double Shadow, one of my all time favorites, seen in all kinds of sci-fi shows. It has Gil Hibben's name on it, of course, but it was mostly designed by Kit Rae. The fact that I knew that right then got even more laughs, friggin nerd, and made me want to dig in the attic. I believe that was the same year my wife got me some new steel for my birthday - my first ever flippers with liner locks. Huh. These modern folders are interesting.

So it's been a gradual reacquainting plus a whole lot of education this last little bit. I always thought 420hc was the thing for sharpness and 1095 for everything else (and "surgical" steel for display only), and that powdered steel was for cars. When I first came across Magnacut, it had that fake marketing ring to it like "surgical", but I'm glad I read up on it. My interest evolved from cool looking knives with tv space warrior cred to solid users made from thoroughly researched magic dust. It's an evolution, I guess. I still carry the SAK and the Multi every day, but now there's like a Marilla or Bel Air pretty often instead of my old plastic handled Buck or beat up Frost.

And then earlier this year I came around to hunt some info, like I do, and stumbled into the thread 'Just pix of knives' and went through the entire. dang. thing. Yeah, since like the first week of the year until today, if i was on my phone, I was scrolling that thread. Lots of dead links and red x's, too tiny thumbnails, and for some reason a bunch of empty coffee cups, but a million awesome shots of cutlery in there. What a ride. Maybe I'll have to dust off my own and add to it.

Well, I guess I could've just said hi instead of writing an essay, but it's also kind of a big thank you to this entire site for basically always being here, and an excellent wealth of knowledge all these years. It's good to be here.
 
Hi!

I'm new and that's established.

Paper back is so that I find mine, i.e. not be fooled. It may stay so.

Thanks!
 
So I'm pretty sure I was on here somewhere along the way,but between work and a crashed laptop I checked out! But back for all the good info,ideas,and things I don't need ! LOL!! I am mostly a collector with good intentions but have done some crude stock removable knives also. My latest purchase I need to really try out is a Darson Forge DFV-004! Thanks for letting me back in!!
 
Can I suggest "the rough ones". No your sunshine beautiful old. This come out of what I know and may have lost in about 30 years. Or 40, or..., it's not the thing really.
 
Hi. Joined because I was searching for info on one of my pocket knives. Was getting nowhere fast. I've a keen interest in knives, being a butcher means it's fairly central to my life. I use victorinox knives at work but am looking to move to caribou as they are a harder steel. I'm very much an oil stone fan, not keen on machines.
Daily I have 3 pocket knives, an opinel no9, an old Chinese made lock knife which actually holds a really good edge and my solingen, and it's this one I'm trying to find info on. How old it is etc. I've had it 30yrs. It's brutally sharp, quite short at under 3", can be thumb opened and the blade still sits snug, not loose at all. Overall it's about 5 1/2" and it curves from tip to heel. Can't work out how to post an image.
Hey all, I'm relatively new here. Fell down the rabbit hole after getting a sharpening stone for christmas. I got a couple small edc knives for the farm season, and I just bought a knife off the Knife Exchange for the first time (AD-10! Thanks Thomson95).

Curious about tristanw's mention of Caribou Knives. I checked them out and it looks like they make production style knives in s35vn! I don't see where to buy them though, does anyone know if they are they still being made? And where to buy them from the US...?

Are there alternative production style knives, for chicken boning in particular, made with good steel?

I found Warther Cutlery, this odd brand with no specs and a weird hammer pattern on all their knives, but they're all made with Magnacut (and no HRC).

Kizer just released a 4" Kwaiken fixed blade with Nitro V that might actually work well for my case (butchering 2000 birds a season), though I usually use a >5" blade.
 
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