Whacha Been Up To......

An itty bitty pocket sheath.

rHC9ohx.jpeg
 
Group question,

How are you guys applying neatsfoot? Wool dobber is uneven for me, as are paper towels.

I'm trying to avoid heavy spots from the initial dipping.
 
After the sheath is warmed up in the oven, following Dave’s recipe Horsewright Horsewright I have a small glass bowl with the neatsfoot oil in and I warm it up in the microwave and use a small 2” paintbrush to apply it onto the OUTSIDE of the sheath, I don’t put any inside.
And then let it sit overnight so the oil will even out over the sheath
G2

Edited to add this one that I used that method

https://flic.kr/p/2ddMv1h
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
Super curious to see how this turns out.

Godspeed!
Click to expand...
thanks man!
I've spent years more or less perfecting my work in the sense that both sides of the sheath are the same- stitches line up and look identical front and back. I'm not going to be able to achieve this at all with a sewing machine, so I'm going to have to let go a little bit. The other thing that concerns me is that a lock stitch is fundamentally not as good as a saddle stitch, and I'll have to let go of that as well, and trust that the quality and gauge of the thread will do the heavy lifting.

Aesthetically, I think that the machine will make for great looking, super consistent stitches, which I struggle with using the process that I've used up til now.

I know deep in my bones how superior the saddle stitch is to anything else, and I will probably continue using that technique from time to time, but I know I'll need to learn to accept good enough in order to increase my productivity. Such is life!
 
Did you practice a lot with your machine? I have a Cowboy 4500 and even with practice pieces behind me I managed to keep screwing up a few times on a few sheaths. Be careful making sharp turns. ;)
 
Lorien said:
thanks man!
I've spent years more or less perfecting my work in the sense that both sides of the sheath are the same- stitches line up and look identical front and back. I'm not going to be able to achieve this at all with a sewing machine, so I'm going to have to let go a little bit. The other thing that concerns me is that a lock stitch is fundamentally not as good as a saddle stitch, and I'll have to let go of that as well, and trust that the quality and gauge of the thread will do the heavy lifting.

Aesthetically, I think that the machine will make for great looking, super consistent stitches, which I struggle with using the process that I've used up til now.

I know deep in my bones how superior the saddle stitch is to anything else, and I will probably continue using that technique from time to time, but I know I'll need to learn to accept good enough in order to increase my productivity. Such is life!
Click to expand...

Will you still be incorporating the laser cut holes (using them as pilot holes)?

The main niggle I see with sewing machines is the foot marks, but I think there are addons that have come a long way in preventing that. Parker on YouTube (ogden, utah) has probably the cleanest machine stitching I've ever seen. Horsewright Horsewright has seemingly conquered this problem too.

Saddle stitching is indeed the best, but I imagine with the thread selection you won't run into any issues. I've got old scandi sheaths from 40 years ago that were machine stitched and still tight. Hand stitching is my favorite part (therapeutic) but it's absolutely a pain in the ass. Genuinely looking forward to the results! I'm sure you've been knee deep in sewing machine videos for a while now lol.

After the sheath is warmed up in the oven, following Dave’s recipe Horsewright Horsewright Horsewright Horsewright I have a small glass bowl with the neatsfoot oil in and I warm it up in the microwave and use a small 2” paintbrush to apply it onto the OUTSIDE of the sheath, I don’t put any inside.
And then let it sit overnight so the oil will even out over the sheath
Click to expand...

This is excellent advice Gary W. Graley Gary W. Graley - I'm going to try exactly this method and report back. I used to use a sponge but it goes on too heavy at first, tends to fall apart and leave little soaked crumbs behind too.
 
bladegrinder said:
Did you practice a lot with your machine? I have a Cowboy 4500 and even with practice pieces behind me I managed to keep screwing up a few times on a few sheaths. Be careful making sharp turns. ;)
Click to expand...
yeah, I've been hitting it pretty hard. Just trying to dial in the settings, needle/thread combos etc. Made myself these mocs, and a not terrible looking pair for my wife as well. Nothing to write home about, but good practice.
WUkratR.jpg

SwissHeritageCo said:
Will you still be incorporating the laser cut holes (using them as pilot holes)?

The main niggle I see with sewing machines is the foot marks, but I think there are addons that have come a long way in preventing that. Parker on YouTube (ogden, utah) has probably the cleanest machine stitching I've ever seen. Horsewright Horsewright has seemingly conquered this problem too.

Saddle stitching is indeed the best, but I imagine with the thread selection you won't run into any issues. I've got old scandi sheaths from 40 years ago that were machine stitched and still tight. Hand stitching is my favorite part (therapeutic) but it's absolutely a pain in the ass. Genuinely looking forward to the results! I'm sure you've been knee deep in sewing machine videos for a while now lol.



This is excellent advice Gary W. Graley Gary W. Graley - I'm going to try exactly this method and report back. I used to use a sponge but it goes on too heavy at first, tends to fall apart and leave little soaked crumbs behind too.
Click to expand...
no laser required for the machine- those bladed #25 needles will punch through 7/8" of leather, no problem. Laser cut holes are nice for hand stitching, and a lot easier than drilling- if everything is planned well.

foot marks are something I'ma do my best to avoid. I understand now why so many leather workers like tooling so much! Nice way to cover up the evidence, lol.

I'm being very selective about the thread I'm using, so I expect the work to hold up. Like any of this stuff, as you know, prep and planning usually dictate the quality of the outcome.

as for videos, I'm fascinated by shoe and boot making now. Can't stop watching youtubes of that stuff.
 
Lorien said:
yeah, I've been hitting it pretty hard. Just trying to dial in the settings, needle/thread combos etc. Made myself these mocs, and a not terrible looking pair for my wife as well. Nothing to write home about, but good practice.
WUkratR.jpg


no laser required for the machine- those bladed #25 needles will punch through 7/8" of leather, no problem. Laser cut holes are nice for hand stitching, and a lot easier than drilling- if everything is planned well.

foot marks are something I'ma do my best to avoid. I understand now why so many leather workers like tooling so much! Nice way to cover up the evidence, lol.

I'm being very selective about the thread I'm using, so I expect the work to hold up. Like any of this stuff, as you know, prep and planning usually dictate the quality of the outcome.

as for videos, I'm fascinated by shoe and boot making now. Can't stop watching youtubes of that stuff.
Click to expand...
Got on a pair of PNW boots right now. Drew’s Rancher model. There are some pretty fascinating videos out there on how they are built.

A lot of the foot marks on sewing leather are from impatience. Anything done to soften leather will cause there to be more foot marks on the leather. For instance oiling or dampening the leather. So if I dampen leather for whatever, tooling etc. I don’t sew it till the next day. Same with an occasional project that I oil first and then se. Don’t sew it till the oil has set. This doesn’t completely elimate foot marks and nothing really does 100% but it goes a long ways towards not getting them. I have read (prior to internet) that you should sew damp and then rub out the foot marks. I have tried this, yeah no.

What size thread are you using in the above practice pieces?

SwissHeritageCo said:
Will you still be incorporating the laser cut holes (using them as pilot holes)?

The main niggle I see with sewing machines is the foot marks, but I think there are addons that have come a long way in preventing that. Parker on YouTube (ogden, utah) has probably the cleanest machine stitching I've ever seen. Horsewright Horsewright has seemingly conquered this problem too.

Saddle stitching is indeed the best, but I imagine with the thread selection you won't run into any issues. I've got old scandi sheaths from 40 years ago that were machine stitched and still tight. Hand stitching is my favorite part (therapeutic) but it's absolutely a pain in the ass. Genuinely looking forward to the results! I'm sure you've been knee deep in sewing machine videos for a while now lol.



This is excellent advice Gary W. Graley Gary W. Graley - I'm going to try exactly this method and report back. I used to use a sponge but it goes on too heavy at first, tends to fall apart and leave little soaked crumbs behind too.
Click to expand...

Saddle stitching is stronger no doubt, yet its not necessary. Anyone that doubts this is welcome to stop by the shop the next time Alberto needs the knee pads on his farrier chinks changed. On this item thats sees muddy horse hooves abrading the stitching daily, those knee pads are on there. I’m gonna hand ya the dental pick that you need for just about every stitch and when you are done you tell me that machine stitching is weaker. Me I’m gonna crack a beer and watch. You’ll figure out pretty quick why sometimes we just sew another one on top of the first one!

I have for the last several years used sheepskin scraps as a neatsfoot applicator. I have a piece maybe 4 x 3 inches. My 100 percent neatsfoot oil is warmed in an $8 crock pot from Wally World. Thee oil just lives in there. I heat the oil about 15 minutes on warm before use. Using the sheepskin I get a much more uniform application and have far fewer dark spots from too much oil. If its a sheath or holster I oil them right out of the oven. I think that the warmth both from the heated oil and the warmth in the sheath from the oven goes a long ways helping the oil to set uniformly.

So ya say where do I get sheepskin. My scraps came in the box my last custom saddle came in. The saddlemaker had used quite a bit of sheepskin as padding to help protect the saddle in the box. Prior to writing this I Googled sheepskin scraps for sale. There’s a lot out there for very lil $. I saw that South Texas Tack had some precut round pieces for sale at $2 a piece. I’d get these. Drop $10 bucks and you’d be set for some years. As these things last a long time. I’m only on my 3rd piece, so the scrap I have will last me a lifetime probably. Ya want to trim the sheep skin wool back to about half the length around the edge for a distance of about 1/2 an inch. Looks like those pads from S Tx Tack already had this done.
 
Horsewright said:
Got on a pair of PNW boots right now. Drew’s Rancher model. There are some pretty fascinating videos out there on how they are built.

A lot of the foot marks on sewing leather are from impatience. Anything done to soften leather will cause there to be more foot marks on the leather. For instance oiling or dampening the leather. So if I dampen leather for whatever, tooling etc. I don’t sew it till the next day. Same with an occasional project that I oil first and then se. Don’t sew it till the oil has set. This doesn’t completely elimate foot marks and nothing really does 100% but it goes a long ways towards not getting them. I have read (prior to internet) that you should sew damp and then rub out the foot marks. I have tried this, yeah no.

What size thread are you using in the above practice pieces?



Saddle stitching is stronger no doubt, yet its not necessary. Anyone that doubts this is welcome to stop by the shop the next time Alberto needs the knee pads on his farrier chinks changed. On this item thats sees muddy horse hooves abrading the stitching daily, those knee pads are on there. I’m gonna hand ya the dental pick that you need for just about every stitch and when you are done you tell me that machine stitching is weaker. Me I’m gonna crack a beer and watch. You’ll figure out pretty quick why sometimes we just sew another one on top of the first one!

I have for the last several years used sheepskin scraps as a neatsfoot applicator. I have a piece maybe 4 x 3 inches. My 100 percent neatsfoot oil is warmed in an $8 crock pot from Wally World. Thee oil just lives in there. I heat the oil about 15 minutes on warm before use. Using the sheepskin I get a much more uniform application and have far fewer dark spots from too much oil. If its a sheath or holster I oil them right out of the oven. I think that the warmth both from the heated oil and the warmth in the sheath from the oven goes a long ways helping the oil to set uniformly.

So ya say where do I get sheepskin. My scraps came in the box my last custom saddle came in. The saddlemaker had used quite a bit of sheepskin as padding to help protect the saddle in the box. Prior to writing this I Googled sheepskin scraps for sale. There’s a lot out there for very lil $. I saw that South Texas Tack had some precut round pieces for sale at $2 a piece. I’d get these. Drop $10 bucks and you’d be set for some years. As these things last a long time. I’m only on my 3rd piece, so the scrap I have will last me a lifetime probably. Ya want to trim the sheep skin wool back to about half the length around the edge for a distance of about 1/2 an inch. Looks like those pads from S Tx Tack already had this done.
Click to expand...
those threads are 207 and 277
 
I just use 207 top and bottom, seems to refine the stitching some and a size 20 needle. Even big projects like a rifle scabbard. Same deal
 
Gary W. Graley said:
After the sheath is warmed up in the oven, following Dave’s recipe Horsewright Horsewright I have a small glass bowl with the neatsfoot oil in and I warm it up in the microwave and use a small 2” paintbrush to apply it onto the OUTSIDE of the sheath, I don’t put any inside.
And then let it sit overnight so the oil will even out over the sheath
G2

Edited to add this one that I used that method

https://flic.kr/p/2ddMv1h
Click to expand...
So nice!
 
Horsewright said:
I just use 207 top and bottom, seems to refine the stitching some and a size 20 needle. Even big projects like a rifle scabbard. Same deal
Click to expand...
are you using a tri point?
 
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