Whacha Been Up To......

I scrapped the first set of sheaths for the Trail Guide knives. The more I looked at them, the less satisfied I was. I was concerned the soft/spongy leather would be a longevity/safety concern. Second set is turning out MUCH better.

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Smart move, better to have something that will last
G2
 
I scrapped the first set of sheaths for the Trail Guide knives. The more I looked at them, the less satisfied I was. I was concerned the soft/spongy leather would be a longevity/safety concern. Second set is turning out MUCH better.

YiKQTFZ.jpeg
On that top one, on the top edge, it got kind of rough. If you have the roughness all over the edge your edger needs sharpening. But when its in a spot like that and not all over its just the leather. A lil looser fibers there. It happens. One lil trick that helps is to come back with the edger and go in the other direction. This can (sometimes) clean that up pretty well and make it more uniform. So in that sheath edge down from the throat to the tip on that top edge see if that doesn’t help clean it up a little. Course it never hurts to touch up the edger too first.
 
On that top one, on the top edge, it got kind of rough. If you have the roughness all over the edge your edger needs sharpening. But when its in a spot like that and not all over its just the leather. A lil looser fibers there. It happens. One lil trick that helps is to come back with the edger and go in the other direction. This can (sometimes) clean that up pretty well and make it more uniform. So in that sheath edge down from the throat to the tip on that top edge see if that doesn’t help clean it up a little. Course it never hurts to touch up the edger too first.

Just scrapped a sheath yesterday because it had one little patch of loose fibers at the bottom of it. Can't stand that spongy stuff, casing doesn't really help it either.

I have to compliment you Dave, I'm really enjoying this Wickett & Craig skirting! It is so much easier to work with vs the hermann oak shoulder I was using. That twisted gnarly grain was such a pain to fold over evenly and when I did, the entire welt would be twisted and crooked... took a lot of time to straight it back up and stretch it out. After dampening the W & C leather a few times in the process, it's plenty firm enough. The consistency is amazing.
 
Just scrapped a sheath yesterday because it had one little patch of loose fibers at the bottom of it. Can't stand that spongy stuff, casing doesn't really help it either.

I have to compliment you Dave, I'm really enjoying this Wickett & Craig skirting! It is so much easier to work with vs the hermann oak shoulder I was using. That twisted gnarly grain was such a pain to fold over evenly and when I did, the entire welt would be twisted and crooked... took a lot of time to straight it back up and stretch it out. After dampening the W & C leather a few times in the process, it's plenty firm enough. The consistency is amazing.
Good deal glad that is working out for you. I’ve had way better luck with W and C over HO. I’ve had untanned sides from HO, literally still rawhide in the center. Several of em. Try cutting that out. I’ve had white gooey stuff come out of the leather so bad I sent the whole side back. They didn’t know what it was. I had one with so much hair still on the side that ya’d a thought it was almost a hair on side. Sometimes I even had a real nice side. Still the W and C as you mentioned is consistent and more good stuff for ya buck.
 
took awhile to dial everything in, mostly getting the tension balanced. Lots and lots of experimentation
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one huge pain in the ass which I didn't anticipate, is how easily these bladed needles cut threads. So instead of backstitching with the machine and wrecking my work, I'ma do it the olde way.
I'll get there one day, but all things considered I'm pretty happy with how my stitches turned out. I am especially happy that sewing these things up only took a fraction of the time I takes me to do it by hand. Stitches are straighter, too
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Horsewright Horsewright

As the resident expert I have another annoying question. Have you noticed how different leathers can cause different retention? I know you wet mold everything so it doesn't much matter in that case, but what I'm finding is that this new w & c leather seemingly makes the pouch cavity larger vs the super hard tempered hermann oak.

I'm worried my existing patterns wont offer the same retention. I can always case the sheaths and make them more flat but I'm a little concerned that I might need to adjust all of my patterns to accommodate the new (slightly softer temper) leather.
 
Have not posted in awhile. Got a new knee in October and have been busy stretching and abusing it to make my PT and surgeon happy. They seem ok now so I took some time to finish a project I started before the surgery.
This is a makeup bag I completed for my wife using a pattern somebody else developed. It seemed simple so I had to add piping and a lining made from 500D Cordura. The piping always adds some challenge but the Cordura almost broke my spirit. In a bag like this I will glue in the lining, generally with 3M Super 77 spray. That will usually make an almost permanent bond to make assembly much easier. It turns out it simply does not glue well at all, nor does it stretch or compress. In a full turn out bag that can be a problem as you are trying to clip it up for sewing. There is almost always a need to adjust clips to compress or stretch material make the panels and gusset fit well. This stuff made that almost impossible and it kept coming loose from the leather it was supposedly glued to. I spent more than a few days failing to get it clipped together. Finally, with some pattern modifications and way more patience than I am known for I was finally able to get the pieces lined up and sewn. My wife likes It. I really don't want to see it again.
Randy
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took awhile to dial everything in, mostly getting the tension balanced. Lots and lots of experimentation
XoTm0sH.jpg


one huge pain in the ass which I didn't anticipate, is how easily these bladed needles cut threads. So instead of backstitching with the machine and wrecking my work, I'ma do it the olde way.
I'll get there one day, but all things considered I'm pretty happy with how my stitches turned out. I am especially happy that sewing these things up only took a fraction of the time I takes me to do it by hand. Stitches are straighter, too
xytmzRt.jpg

Looks super clean to me! I see zero marks.
 
SwissHeritageCo SwissHeritageCo -the photo's probably a little overexposed, but there are definitely foot prints. Since these things get a fully wet molding, I'm hoping the marks will rub out some.
Finishing the ends by hand is not a huge big deal, and it looks pretty kewl, since the stitches area a little different. Like olde worlde meets nw wrld!

I keep looking at these things and still can't quite get over it. The stitch lines are so much nicer looking than I usually produce, at least on the front side of the sheath.
 
SwissHeritageCo SwissHeritageCo -the photo's probably a little overexposed, but there are definitely foot prints. Since these things get a fully wet molding, I'm hoping the marks will rub out some.
Finishing the ends by hand is not a huge big deal, and it looks pretty kewl, since the stitches area a little different. Like olde worlde meets nw wrld!

I keep looking at these things and still can't quite get over it. The stitch lines are so much nicer looking than I usually produce, at least on the front side of the sheath.

I don't think we'll get max impact until you show us a full bodied pic! Is that olive drab thread?

Anyways, I'm super jealous. I have to punch holes 3 times on each sheath lol. A machine like that opens up a ton of streamlining.

How do you get the wax out of your holes? I run into this when finishing and it annoys me to no end, literally bought drum dyed leather so I could finish it with oil and be done with it. Horse hair brush works but it's time consuming.
 
I don't think we'll get max impact until you show us a full bodied pic! Is that olive drab thread?

Anyways, I'm super jealous. I have to punch holes 3 times on each sheath lol. A machine like that opens up a ton of streamlining.

How do you get the wax out of your holes? I run into this when finishing and it annoys me to no end, literally bought drum dyed leather so I could finish it with oil and be done with it. Horse hair brush works but it's time consuming.
the thread is kind of a cigar brown.
I don't sweat having wax in my stitching. It eventually works loose if the sheath is used, and is a good protective barrier in the meantime. In the past, I've used a needle to pick it out, but found the juice wasn't really worth the squeeze for the kind of stuff I want to put out there
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Horsewright Horsewright

As the resident expert I have another annoying question. Have you noticed how different leathers can cause different retention? I know you wet mold everything so it doesn't much matter in that case, but what I'm finding is that this new w & c leather seemingly makes the pouch cavity larger vs the super hard tempered hermann oak.

I'm worried my existing patterns wont offer the same retention. I can always case the sheaths and make them more flat but I'm a little concerned that I might need to adjust all of my patterns to accommodate the new (slightly softer temper) leather.
Ya might have to adjust, sounds like. Mine are all built to the individual, specific knife anyways so, I'm always adjusting. This is done on the welt and the welt side for the most part.
 
VERY quick and dirty slap her together freehand for mere function 6/7 oz pancake Sheath à la CR for the Derek Rausch Dagger. Now really stable and wearable. (Oh, a couple weeks after delivery from Zud Africa to FL, I received a $68 DHL duty bill.)
 

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VERY quick and dirty slap her together freehand for mere function 6/7 oz pancake Sheath à la CR for the Derek Rausch Dagger. Now really stable and wearable. (Oh, a couple weeks after delivery from Zud Africa to FL, I received a $68 DHL duty bill.)
Cool nice job..... Well at Least the # wasn't higher........🤔
 
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