Whacha Been Up To......

It doesn’t as there is at least one piece of leather that it goes against

https://flic.kr/p/2mKMxds

I have a heavy piece of steel that the leather is on when I hammer down on the area
And usually I have to punch the hole again as tge ball peen hammer will close the hole up a little

G2
 
Gary W. Graley said:
It doesn’t as there is at least one piece of leather that it goes against

https://flic.kr/p/2mKMxds

I have a heavy piece of steel that the leather is on when I hammer down on the area
And usually I have to punch the hole again as tge ball peen hammer will close the hole up a little

G2
Click to expand...

Awesome pic!

But what do you mean by "one piece of leather it goes against"?

Lets say you're adding a piece of leather for a belt loop to that pic. You've done the prep above, but when you go to hammer the rivet you flip that dented side over on a hard flat service to set the rivet.. wouldn't it flatten out some if the back of the rivet needs to make contact in order to set?

Thanks again Gary :)
 
Gary W. Graley said:
It is not set very deep but enough that it doesn’t get in the way.
Gluing a thin layer over it works fine.

https://flic.kr/p/2mKMxcA

https://flic.kr/p/2mKQH7g

This shows the rivet through the sheath and a rubbed on bit of mink oil so it pivots easier

https://flic.kr/p/2mKMxar

G2
Click to expand...

I'm gonna try this method but instead of a ballpeen I'm going to the opposite end of a rivet setter I have (flat and round) that's just a bit larger than the rivet itself.

The rivets usually indent pretty flat and somewhat recessed on their own... but when adding a thin cut of leather on top it tends to leave a snagable lip.

Will report back!
 
further to Gary's suggestion, you could try using an M8 allen head bolt or whatever best matches the head size of your rivet, which will create a step as opposed to a divot.
Absolutely wet the leather, but give the water time to migrate away from where you're creating your countersink. Too much water too soon is not helpful, imo.
 
Lorien said:
further to Gary's suggestion, you could try using an M8 allen head bolt or whatever best matches the head size of your rivet, which will create a step as opposed to a divot.
Absolutely wet the leather, but give the water time to migrate away from where you're creating your countersink. Too much water too soon is not helpful, imo.
Click to expand...

Something like this?

iu
 
If you use an allen head like that you will probably end up with an island of leather in the middle.
If you can find a metal rod that is as wide as the rivet head that might work well
G2
 
ecallahan said:
So far so good, but it doesn’t have many miles on it yet :-) it came extremely sharp! It seems to get favorable reviews for an inexpensive knife.
Click to expand...

Sweet sheath btw.

Can you dm me a link of the exact one you bought? So many are similar.
 
@SwissHeritageCo I forgot to mention the reason why I use the ball peen hammer is that the rivets that I use are cone shaped below the head, so the ball peen provides the indentation of a cone making the rivet to fit better.
G2
 
Lorien said:
all the sewing on this batch of sheaths is done, just gotta tie up some loose ends...
EjGDfi2.jpg
Click to expand...

Loving this progress shots Lorien!

I'd be curious to know about your waxing process. I've gone off the idea of waxing lately and I think you will too.. eventually.
 
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