What did you rehang today?

Thanks theDH. Yes, the problem is that the head is leaning so that the bits aren't parallel to the haft. I kept trying to take off opposite halves of the tongue, but, especially on the thinner side (since the kerf was off centre) I was worried I was going to remove too much, and the adjustments didn't seem to be working anyway (probably I was removing too little). Also I think one side is a little bit higher than the other, which I definitely should have noticed and corrected.

But maybe you're right and it won't affect the performance too much. I'll find out tomorrow.

Thanks.
 
Nice work on the resto, wdmn. Off center kerfs are a real nuisance. The handle makers shouldn't even bother cutting them if they can't cut them straight.
 
Thanks square_peg; you're right about that, and from what I've seen most of them can't.

Also, I'm pretty sure this axe is not a cruiser judging by the eye size and how much material has to be removed to have a proper grind. I'm going to have to work on that some more; the cutting side is not bad, but I didn't take nearly enough off the other side and it was sticking a lot.
 
theDH said:
nice, i would guess "FB" are the initials of the previous owner. looks like some nice tight gain fir, is that hart wood or sap wood? i haven't used Douglas-fir for percussion tools but i think the hart wood would be less likely to splinter. any way i would treat it with lots of thinned down oil so it can soak deep into the wood.
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Well, thanks for the response! I was splitting some kindling the other day and the head just snapped off the handle. A clean break. Didn't overstrike or anything. This has happened to me before with a small rock pick that had a douglas fir handle. Lesson Learned! At least I feel more comfortable hanging and making handles!:D
 
Hung a Kelly Black Prince Swamping axe. It was from a friend in Canada

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She is a fine addition to my Kelly collection.

Tom
 
Thats a beauty Double Ott :thumbup:

I finished this one yesterday,








I might rub the handle down, add another coat of linseed oil and sharpen it a bit more...





 
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Made a new handle for the tomahawk last night. This is the new H&B Forge Camp Axe that I bought last week. Just made the handle to have a spare, and to see if I could do it. Turned out really nice I thought.
 
One of my coworkers brought me a maul with a busted handle to rehang. The original handle had a plastic sleeve around the wood haft and once I cut it out I found the head had a really big eye. I ended up using a pick handle that I trimmed down to re-hang it. I also got around to making a purpleheart handle for a Norlund Hatchet I had hanging around.





 
theDH said:
what tools did you use shaping the purpleheart? hows the vine maple coming along?
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Table saw, chisels, pocket plane, rasp, sander and a boy scout whittlers knife for the final seating of the head. I also wore a respirator during any dust producing activity. The vine maple is still curing and I think it'll stay where it is in the corner of my shed till this winter and then I'll take a stab at working it. I do need to find an appropriate blade to go with a vine handle. I'm leaning towards a smaller sized blade with a proportionally larger than average eye to accommodate the softer maple. One more reason to cruise the junk stores!

edit: Here's an earlier thread where I made a HB handle out of purpleheart.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1173516-Purpleheart-handle-(pic-heavy)
 
You can tell by the shape that's it's vintage. Looks like a fine axe. Nice hang. Probably made by a major maker for some hardware store who put their own sticker on it.
 
Just finished up a nice Connecticut. R King Tool Steel, hung on a HH 32" octagon handle. Phased the octagon going to the head. Irritates my hand and prefer smooth for the sliding hand but the oct option makes it slim. Used mostly the draw knives and spoke shave on this one, really liking those. Head jumped a fraction when driving the wedge...think I need a wider mallet to hit the whole wedge at once. Have not sharpened yet but looking good. WATCO Danish oil for finish.
Bill





 
I like the surface of the head - looks like business. The octagonal handles are intriguing - that one looks great.
 
Great job...that thing looks like a heck of an axe. I like the way you blended the octagonal and smooth areas.
 
Thanks guys- that one came together better than most for me :) Really liking these Connies but learned that you have to have a long tongue on your haft for them as the eye is so deep. Even as low as I dropped this one, I trimmed less than .25" on top after the hang. I kinf od like the octagon feel in my anchor hand but started rounding corners for the slide part and just went all the way to smooth. I need to order some more of this style handle. Being sadned this thin for the oct does leave them more open to warping though, got one that did and need to try steaming and straightening.
Bill
 
Interesting. I actually ordered a hand-picked octagonal DB handle as well as a standard, not-hand-picked DB axe handle (both no lacquer) from HH just the other day. It'll be a good way to compare them. However, I know there can always be variability....I ordered two scout axe handles a while back and they were definitely different from each other in terms of their thickness, even though they were spec'd identically.

Also I'm liking these CT patterns the more I see them. I'm not sure I've ever seen one in my part of the world but I am certainly keeping an eye out!
 
I got a bug to rehandle a few after I bought a GB with a broken handle:


From the left; Council Tool, Norland, Gransfors Bruk. I used a rejected Jotoba (Brazilian Rosewood) 5/4" stair tread that I had sitting around to make the handles. In the box is an old Collins left handed broad axe with original (re-hung) handle and to the right are an original Norland and an old US military hatchet that I picked up somewhere. It is marked U.S. , American Fork & Hoe, and 1943. The socket chisels were also my rehafts.
 
I had an old handle left over, and an empty hammer head, so....
 

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