What did you rehang today?

300Six said:
Skilgannon; looks good! Convention, when it comes to heads over 3 1/2 lb, is for longer handles but if 32" is comfortable (for you) you're the ultimate judge.
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Thanks 300Six I learn more each time.
Good to know and be able to apply as I find more axes.
 
phantomknives said:
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as requested, one 4 pound KP on one 36" bingmaster semi-octagonal knob end. can you guys find out something on the handle? also, why is the head not marked kelly?
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...can you guys find out something on the handle? also, why is the head not marked kelly?

In the 1938 True Temper Tools catalog, it's called "Perfect", not "Kelly Perfect".
In the 1957 True Temper catalog, it's called "Kelly Perfect".
Perhaps that "Perfect" was made sometime before 1957?

The name on the handle, "Bingmaster", was evidently an axe brand from The W. Bingham Co.
Their 1961 catalog has some Bingmaster axes (as shown below).
This company was a wholesaler (according to YesteryearsTools). More information is in the thread quoted below.

s-l1600.jpg


Steve Tall said:
This source says that the "W. Bingham Co." was incorporated in 1888, and the supply of tools with the "W. Bingham Co." brand ended in 1961:
https://case.edu/ech/articles/w/w-bingham-co/

As a hardware company, they didn't manufacture their axes, but had them made with their brand on them. YesteryearsTools suggests that that Bingham used American Axe & Tool Co. to make some of its axes, at some point:

Example of a paper label (top) used by the A. A. & T. Co. and a paper label used on some axes sold by the W. Bingham Co. strongly suggesting that at one time W. Bingham obtained axes from the A. A. & T. Co. or one of its constituent companies. The W. Bingham Co. was a wholesaler.
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Steve Tall said:
The name on the handle, "Bingmaster", was evidently an axe brand from The W. Bingham Co.
Their 1961 catalog has some Bingmaster axes (as shown below).
This company was a wholesaler (according to YesteryearsTools). More information is in the thread quoted below.

s-l1600.jpg
Click to expand...
Thank you Steve. The Bingmaster 'Michigan' pattern axes in the 30/3/61 catalogue (if these illustrations are accurate) are pretty-near dead ringers (including masked-off paint) for Plumb Nationals.
 
skillgannon said:
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Be still, my heart!

Beautiful axe and handle. And I think you were wise not to worry about the little ding in the heel. It'll work out in due time under regular sharpening.

I'm guessing the grain is continuous, just canted at about 30 degrees. If so it's nothing to be concerned about. It could even be preferential for certain kinds of work.
 
300Six said:
Thank you Steve. The Bingmaster 'Michigan' pattern axes in the 30/3/61 catalogue (if these illustrations are accurate) are pretty-near dead ringers (including masked-off paint) for Plumb Nationals.
Click to expand...

That masked paint pattern closely resembles some old Kelly Woodslashers.
 
Steve Tall said:
...can you guys find out something on the handle? also, why is the head not marked kelly?

In the 1938 True Temper Tools catalog, it's called "Perfect", not "Kelly Perfect".
In the 1957 True Temper catalog, it's called "Kelly Perfect".
Perhaps that "Perfect" was made sometime before 1957?

The name on the handle, "Bingmaster", was evidently an axe brand from The W. Bingham Co.
Their 1961 catalog has some Bingmaster axes (as shown below).
This company was a wholesaler (according to YesteryearsTools). More information is in the thread quoted below.

s-l1600.jpg
Click to expand...
thanks steve, dont know what we'd do without'cha
 
Square_peg said:
Be still, my heart!

Beautiful axe and handle. And I think you were wise not to worry about the little ding in the heel. It'll work out in due time under regular sharpening.

I'm guessing the grain is continuous, just canted at about 30 degrees. If so it's nothing to be concerned about. It could even be preferential for certain kinds of work.
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm not happy about that nick. It was perfect and then I was doing the final sanding on the handle on my 2x72" and didn't pay attention to the blade. It caught the rubber on my wheel and then there was a loud noise and I was no longer holding the axe..... and I didn't get killed that was great but a chip happened when I wasn't looking.:confused:
 
Rehung this unmarked 3 1/2lb head yesterday on a Link handle that I took down a bit. Sharpened it up last night, and then promptly took a chunk out of the toe today when I took it out to give it a whirl:
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phantomknives said:
the plumb
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Cool!
Thanks! Pulling from my memory of attempting to research it a couple months back, so this leaves much room for error till I research it again, I think I found the PLUMB in the rectangle with USA below could have been manufactured during or just post WWII.
I don't know for sure, just tryin to remember now while watching my 2nd grader play basketball:):thumbsup::D
 
Miller, I have seen this type of half hatchets our and about but never have found one at the price I wanted to pay. When I say this type I mean with the “collared” base. I have always wanted to hang one because it seems like it would be different than a normal style hatchet. Maybe even a little harder? Was this hang any different than any other hang?
 
Brian Rust said:
Miller, I have seen this type of half hatchets our and about but never have found one at the price I wanted to pay. When I say this type I mean with the “collared” base. I have always wanted to hang one because it seems like it would be different than a normal style hatchet. Maybe even a little harder? Was this hang any different than any other hang?
Click to expand...

Hi Brian. I felt it was fairly similar to hanging one of the lugged lath hatchets I have recently done, trying to be as precise as possible for symmetry, angle and balance on the haft.
The eye shape and size was larger than most hatchet handles I could find in my three local'ish true values... I settled and I ended with a just slightly smaller eye Link and started to slowly and gingerly shave and shape to fit the bottom and fill the top as much as possible, already intending to make up the minor difference at the narrow with my wedge.
I shaped my wedge (store bought collection) to fill the narrow and fill the void and to mushroom over.
The bottom narrow, sadly I struggled to keep as much shoulder to fill that void, required a separately shaped wedge, Tapped, set, retapped and cut flush. It's not as pretty as I wanted but it is solid.

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if only it could tell me the who, what, why and how history, story of that crack. :cool::thumbsup:;)

Miller
 
Half hatchet, 13&1/2" haft, 1&3/4lb.
No Name
Wood wedge, two wood screws and a nail for good measure...still wiggled off by hand

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Brass bristle hand brush & 3inONE.
Rasp and sand paper at the handle.

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Deep set wedge, BLO

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Soft to the File
Rehung, now a 12" Haft

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