What did you rehang today?

Thanks for the comments I'd originally planned on putting both heads on the new hafts, but the 1lb head had been wedged with a huge nail and I had to saw it down. Seemed a shame to waste what was left of the old haft, so I rehung the smaller head on it. I'm gonna have to redo the 1lb, totally ballsed up that hang. Not centered, too high on the haft, managed to crack the wedge etc etc.

1lb head is a Skinner & Johnson #5, which puts it at at least 50 years old, and the only marking I can find on the 13oz one says "J&C".

 

I have a smaller hatchet that looks exactly like that. It also has a really deep stamp, AAA&T CO (American Axe and Tool Co). I'd bet that's what yours are too.

 

Interesting. That's a good use for it- easier on the wrist than the Estwing Fireside Friend mini-maul.

 

That's my guess as well.

 

I posted this one I made not long ago, but after extended use I found the edge to be too hard. It was getting micro chips and not holding an edge like I expect a 5160 bit to. So I pulled the handle and re-worked the temper. I was also not pleased with the hang so that is why its here. I got another plank of kiln dried hickory and made a new handle with better fit around the lugs.




In the last pic you can see its not perfect but its very solid. You can also see the weld at the front of the eye. Sorry about the poor phone images.

Chris

 

Chris,
Handle and hang look good. What did you use to test the edge? It was chipping and not holding a edge? I ask because I forged a hatchet out of 4140 and went too soft on the heat treat. It chips when I was cutting bailing wire, not sure if it is a HT or grind issue.
I'm trying to find an all around edge profile/ grind by checking out new and vintage heads. That and doing everything you shouldn't with a hatchet LOL. Like clearing wild cherry trees out of my buddy's sheep pen by chopping the roots underground.

 

I understand using "torture test" methods to refine your methods. Honestly, though, any hatchet that does not chip when chopping rocks is probably too soft to be a quality wood working tool. Don't you think?

 

The chips were very small and the edge was thin enough that it should have shown some distortion if it were soft. The chopping so far had been seasoned hardwoods including hickory, oak and cedar. Nothing that would constitute abuse. Also i made three axes and used different draw back temps on them to narrow down my heat treat methods. This one was drawn at the lowest temp. I am a firm believer in testing and working with it until the desired results are achieved. I have 5160 figured out on knives but axes are pretty new in my bag of tricks so I am doing lots of testing, which is very fun and my wife is happy because the mess from winter storms is getting cleaned up in the process.

As far as the 4140 goes I dont have much experienced with it. Given that the carbon content is to low to make the knives I make. I think full hard it is in the area of 56hrc. If you draw it back to stabilize it it will be softer yet. Dont quote me ot it though because I am going from memory on a steel I dont use.

Thanks for the complements guys.

Chris

 

Ha! I was thinking the same thing before I even got to these comments. Might be a Niagara or an Ideal Ridge.

 

Probably, I'm not talking about breaking rocks- didn't expect to hit too many in overgrown former field- but didn't really chip out the edge at all. I'm interested in how much damage is done by the occasional dirt strike and how easily the edge can be restored with a puck.

 

Just looked up 4140 data and it stated it can be hardened to 54. What temp did you draw it back at?

Chris

 

450 , but the problem I think was when I tried to do a differential heat treat on the edge and poll. Don't think I quenched it fast enough in the 120 degree canola oil. When I get around to doing it again I will quench the entire head and draw the eye back after temper if needed.

 

I really like the shape of that head and would like to know more about your construction methods.

You might try drawing back at 350 just to stabilize it. You will, in therory, loose about one hrc point for each 25 degrees of temp over 350 over a two hour temper cycle. Do you have access to a hardness tester? I would like to know what you got at 450.

Chris

 

That's funny, because the more I see it the less I like it. I split and drifted it from a piece of 4140 that I had. Drilled a series of small holes to help with the split. The poll is polished as a hunters axe.
I don't get to a chance to heat and beat too much. But, have been modding heads I come across looking for THE HEAD that I want to make. I can't imagine that I could produce anything "new" to the world of axes lol. Trying to get the benefit of others testing and design work to see what fits me best. I would like to try a chainsaw Damascus head as a twist on a theme. Also interested in edge profiles like this Hultafors with a more rounded profile then we see in the US. Mostly looking to make myself and sons tools with my own hands.

 

From this:









to this:







I used a House Handle blank and carved it into an octagonal handle using a Fiddleback Arete knife.

Thanks to Square Peg for the advice on the handle. I am very happy.

TF

 

I re-hung my True Temper A6 today. The head is a little rough so I'll keep this one for a user. It has a very hard bit and a hardened poll, too. I put it on a 32" straight octagonal handle. It will be used for chopping, bucking and juggling, maybe a little splitting.

 

This is my 4th axe refurb this summer and the first one I feel like I got really "right". The Fleischmann handle didn't need a huge amount of work to fit the eye and was very forgiving when it came to tapping it back out to rasp it and then re install it. The ridges in the eye really seem to keep it solid and I was able to make a decent straight saw cut (something I've always struggled with )

 

nice work. Juggling?

 

Joggling. Dang spell checker!

 

still had to look that one up. Learn something new every day.