What Did You Sharpen Today?

PLUMB Boy Scout hatchet, refurbished for my grandson.
 

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RICKOFF, click the pic you want in "your photobucket", then look to the right side of the picture. You'll see "share this photo", under that you'll see a list of options. Click the box of code next to "IMG". It will copy it automatically, then paste that code into your reply. Use "edit post" here in the forum to just fix the post you already made, that way you don't have a bunch of posts in a row.
 
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HELP! I need some direction, Craftsman on top with severely worn toe, bottom fairly new TT Michigan for comparison. What would be the best way to bring it back to as close to or original shape. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Rick

 
RICKOFF said:
HELP! I need some direction, Craftsman on top with severely worn toe, bottom fairly new TT Michigan for comparison. What would be the best way to bring it back to as close to or original shape. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Rick

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I would say that it is worn, but not severely. The toe is going to wear faster no matter what, so the best thing may be to sharpen the bottom 2/3 as needed until it catches up with the top 1/3. Still sharpen the top as best you can, but take as little metal as possible.
 
Thanks jb, that is some good news, much better than what I thought I was going to have to do. The temperature has dropped to a comfortable 95 and 11% humidity and I'm going out to file away.

Thanks Again

Rick
 
It's not worn too badly but I would go ahead and re-shape the edge. JB's advise is correct if that axe had to last you a lifetime. But it doesn't. Most of us these days are never going to wear our axes. And we're more likely to use an axe if it's in prime condition.

I would draw the shape you want with a sharpie keeping in mind that the toe should be slightly longer than the heel. Then take the axe to the bench grinder. Keeping the bit at 90° straight into the wheel, grind the shape you've drawn. When grinding at 90° the metal is removed before it has a chance to overheat. Still be careful and quench as necessary. Once the shape has been corrected you can sharpen it with a file.
 
Square_peg said:
It's not worn too badly but I would go ahead and re-shape the edge. JB's advise is correct if that axe had to last you a lifetime. But it doesn't. Most of us these days are never going to wear our axes. And we're more likely to use an axe if it's in prime condition.

I would draw the shape you want with a sharpie keeping in mind that the toe should be slightly longer than the heel. Then take the axe to the bench grinder. Keeping the bit at 90° straight into the wheel, grind the shape you've drawn. When grinding at 90° the metal is removed before it has a chance to overheat. Still be careful and quench as necessary. Once the shape has been corrected you can sharpen it with a file.
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Thanks Square, and next time thats what I'll do. I finished it and hung it on Sunday. I'll use it awhile and ware it down and then re-profile it, we have a lot of dead red gum that's hard as rocks and have been using for wedges.



 
PLUMB bit on left spent a few minuets on with a some what used file no name bit on right, I could not put a scratch on with a new Nicholson made in USA NOS.
Tried it on my 1x30 belt sander and all it did was polish it. Suggestions as to how sharpen it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Rick



 
That is a pretty rough edge. I don’t know what the best solve is but maybe establish a line behind the deepest gouge, use a bench grinder (judiciously), and take it back to that point then set a new profile/edge on it? You might need a new file if the ones you using just won’t take material off?

*I have never used a bench grinder to do that but I bet someone here has and they would have more advice.

Often I run black electrical tape across the edge where I want it to end/start as a guide. It does start to peel up the closer you get but tape is cheap and it keeps a sloppy scrape off the rest of the cheek while you are pushing into it.

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It will lose a fair amount of metal but I think those hatchets are supposed to be flat across to work as intended?

The lesser-damaged one maybe just hand file until it is gone and then even the edge up? That one looks easier to get done than the other.

I also might be totally off base as well and there is a better way to go about it Rickoff.
 
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Agent and Square, Thanks

Square, I had the bit in the vise and the NOS file just slid off as did the Heller and the Simonds and the link.

Agent, That's what I have read grind it down to the profile that I want while keeping it cool and then put an edge on it but I'm not thinking that it will be any softer.
The fellow that I got the NOS files has a 2'' Jet belt sander and we spoke about him showing me how it would put an edge on a bit with out ruining the temper that was before I ran into this bit.

Thanks again, fortunately tomorrow is another day and I have no deadlines and plenty of other bits and hafts to fool with.
 
Make sure that the file is kept clean, also try draw filing. Stones would work, but you don't want to punish yourself like that. It would be like copying the phonebook by hand. A big old traditional whetstone would be fun to try on these. Also, that one on the right I think is also likely a Plumb. Certainly it is a good one.

I do have a sharpening stone that might be suitable for that type of heavy removal, but nobody is getting it away from me. 12"x3", dual sided with it's own oil reservoir. Files are still your first choice though I think.

 
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jb, That one gave me a good laugh.

"Stones would work, but you don't want to punish yourself like that. It would be like copying the phonebook by hand."

I have a 8'' coarse wheel on the bench, last night I pushed it across for 5 minuets, didn't make a difference.
 
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RICKOFF said:
NO NO flat on the bench not on the grinder. Just pushing it across.
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Yes Yes that is exactly what you said. I just assumed.:o

Well, anyway my next "great idea" is it's a grinding wheel made to put on a bench grinder. So why not mount it up and give it a whirl?:)

Bob
 
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