What do you guys think of the S110V PM2 Blurple knives?

I don't like the color at all. Aside from that, I'm sure it's great.

Waiting for red frn handles. ;)
 
I'm not sure why but I didn't like the PM2 in this color but I do like the Manix 2. So maybe I just prefer the Manix 2. I still want one of the new PM2 M4 exclusives.
 
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Didn't take long to put a mirror edge on it. I thought it would be harder to sharpen but ZDP took a little more time. I would imagine it's due to the higher % Niobium in the s110v
 
You guys got me really interested in buying one of these.. you want to help me find the best price? :P of a reputable seller :)
 
I like the blurple color, especially with my purple deep carry clip from Casey. The stock chrome clip was a big turnoff, it looks more serious now and sits in the pocket better. I want the m4 as well and am very attracted to the Jade scales. I don't see the m4 being any more useful than the s110v besides Probably being easier to sharpen without diamonds.

Post a picture of this clip please?!
 
Had mine since the first drop and love that dam thing! I like the color a lot......it changes in certain light.
The thing flat out CUTS for a long time! Used it quite a bit, no breaking up sidewalks, and have only had to strop. Great steel, great color on a great knife!
Like someone else stated.....the edge on mine was beautiful out of box! Even and screaming sharp!!
Just got the blurple Manix last week and it was just as good!! Excellent builds on both!
Joe
 
I had my S110V Para 2 reground by Tom Krein to .006"-.007" behind the bevel. With the edge that Tom put on it it could catch some hairs above the skin and pop hairs nicely. I EDC'd it for about a week and a half, then decided to cut up a decent sized double thick cardboard box into a bunch of tiny strips. By the end of the box it was pretty much dead dull, and cutting by the very thin grind more than by being sharp. That performance didn't blow me away, but it wasn't terrible, either. I usually give a knife 4-5 sharpenings before making any conclusions about its edge retention, as many times the edges get burned in production, and you need to get to some fresh steel to see the true performance of the steel.

I just resharpened it at about 11 degrees per side, up to a Shapton Glasstone 500, then did about 8 passes per side on a 16000 grit Glasstone at 15 degrees per side for a toothy edge with a microbevel that slightly polished it. It's catches hair above the skin, pops hairs, and easily push cuts phone book paper at a true 90/90/90 (cut straight down into the paper, perpendicular on all planes), so it has good push cutting sharpness along with very good slicing aggression. This edge is actually very comparable to what Tom Krein put on it, and he is well known for very sharp, toothy edges, so I am liking the grit combination for this edge. I'll have to see how it holds up for me.
 
A month carry now. It is my first Spyderco. I like it a lot. Bigger than I am used to carrying, but very quickly getting used to it. Very usefull size. I like the scale color. I have already tweaked the clip by catching it on something. Have ordered the blurple clip thanks to this thread. Not hard to keep sharp on the Sharpmaker and strop. No idea yet about Resharpening a dull blade.
 
I had my S110V Para 2 reground by Tom Krein to .006"-.007" behind the bevel. With the edge that Tom put on it it could catch some hairs above the skin and pop hairs nicely. I EDC'd it for about a week and a half, then decided to cut up a decent sized double thick cardboard box into a bunch of tiny strips. By the end of the box it was pretty much dead dull, and cutting by the very thin grind more than by being sharp. That performance didn't blow me away, but it wasn't terrible, either. I usually give a knife 4-5 sharpenings before making any conclusions about its edge retention, as many times the edges get burned in production, and you need to get to some fresh steel to see the true performance of the steel.

I just resharpened it at about 11 degrees per side, up to a Shapton Glasstone 500, then did about 8 passes per side on a 16000 grit Glasstone at 15 degrees per side for a toothy edge with a microbevel that slightly polished it. It's catches hair above the skin, pops hairs, and easily push cuts phone book paper at a true 90/90/90 (cut straight down into the paper, perpendicular on all planes), so it has good push cutting sharpness along with very good slicing aggression. This edge is actually very comparable to what Tom Krein put on it, and he is well known for very sharp, toothy edges, so I am liking the grit combination for this edge. I'll have to see how it holds up for me.

That's pretty much the total opposite result from what Ankerson saw on a .005 regrind on, I think the Manix 2 LW...
S110V with a grind that thin should slice cardboard for days and days before it even starts to lose it's edge.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/793481-Ranking-of-Steels-in-Categories-based-on-Edge-Retention-cutting-5-8-quot-rope?highlight=ankerson
 
Where did they all go? Yesterday there were 5x websites that had them... now I only found one with IN STOCK? WTH???
 
If you want one, don't wait so long when you find it available.
The blurple s110v PM2 is a "regular item"; but the early demand has not yet been satisfied....meaning they're still being bought up as quickly as the dealers are getting them. Places that did preorders are still trying to fill those, and haven't even started posting them for general sale. It is slowing down a bit, though; so they are getting easier to purchase.
 
If you want one, don't wait so long when you find it available.
The blurple s110v PM2 is a "regular item"; but the early demand has not yet been satisfied....meaning they're still being bought up as quickly as the dealers are getting them. Places that did preorders are still trying to fill those, and haven't even started posting them for general sale. It is slowing down a bit, though; so they are getting easier to purchase.

I hope so.... I've been saving so I could order one... Will be my first Spyderco knife.
 
I'd expect a few more months of them selling out within a day or two of arrival at most dealers. That doesn't mean they can't be had...just that, when you're ready to buy, you have to be prepared to complete the transaction when you find them available. Price comparison is simple - most places are selling them for $149.99. Many, but not all, offer free shipping...I ended up paying for shipping because I got tired of waiting. There are some places that post them at higher prices - buying those is an individual choice, and usually comes down to choosing to support those dealers or not wanting to wait.
Hang in there - it wasn't that long ago that the regular PM2s were this hard to get from dealers.
Hope it's everything you're hoping it will be.
 
That's pretty much the total opposite result from what Ankerson saw on a .005 regrind on, I think the Manix 2 LW...
S110V with a grind that thin should slice cardboard for days and days before it even starts to lose it's edge.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/793481-Ranking-of-Steels-in-Categories-based-on-Edge-Retention-cutting-5-8-quot-rope?highlight=ankerson

I'm aware of Ankerson's results. I'm just reporting the performance I saw with my knife, with the cutting that I did. I usually sharpen my knives several times before trying to draw conclusions about how they perform, as it isn't uncommon to get a knife that had the edge burned leaving the factory. Usually 4-5 sharpenings get you to good steel if the edge was overheated. Also, that cardboard box was a double thick box for a computer, and some cardboard I've cut can quickly blunt even the best blades if it is full of impurities. It is much different than cutting just new, clean rope. I cut that box into a lot of tiny strips, possibly 100' of cutting. If I was cutting that same box side by side with another blade of known performance it could have helped see the comparative performance. Also, after the cutting it was roughly slicing printer paper, with some catching. To me that is very dull. To many others that is more than acceptable. I'm sure the blade would continue to cut effectively at that reduced sharpness for a very long time, mega carbide steels like S110V are known for that. I'd rather touch it up or grab another knife that is sharp rather that cut with a blade at that vastly reduced sharpness, but that is just my personal preference.

Edit to add: I don't care what steel you use, you will never cut "days and days" before starting to lose the edge on a blade. Initial sharpness falls off very fast, then it starts to level off and drop off much more slowly. This is what people are referring to when they talk about holding a working edge. The working edge isn't close to the hair popping, or hair whittling edge that you initially start off with.
 
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