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What do you guys think of this???
- Thread starter norcalblacktail
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I've yet to see him acknowledge anyone's point that doesn't agree with his.
He doesn't debate. He doesn't reason. He just posts. [shrug smiley here]
He would be a very annoying person in real life.
Cobalt
Platinum Member
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Maybe he was use to getting his way in the homeland...DA!!!!!!
I know Tony was. Ciao!!
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After looking at some of his material as well, I wondered if some of it may be an issue with English as a second language from the communicative stand point and trying to make sense of some things.
I also wonder if it may be a cultural issue?
Certainly not everyone that English is a second language for is not this way nor are cultural differences always an issue. We have many members from outside the US that English is not their primary language that have very valuable inputs and information and I enjoy reading their posts and information.
With him, it may just be that your quote below is the most relevant:
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If you make a point of looking at his posts ... a little bit of research ... you might note the following. Sometimes, his posting is very difficult to follow, as if he was having a hard time properly phrasing his English. And then, he is very coherent and clear.
I don't know if this is an issue of excitement sometimes getting in the way, or whether he is posing. I have seen others express this possibility.
Mind you, I don't really advise you to do this research. It's not really worth it. [shrug smiley, again]
- Joined
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Since he doesn't answer posts, we can talk about him all we want!
Finally a question that I can answer!
Here's a fine grained steel with a nice thin edge bevel:
http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/?action=view¤t=p1010471.jpg
It works great. Yes, if you torque it hard in wood, the risk is greater that you might leave a chunk in the wood. I haven't been terribly careful with it yet, and have had no problems. I'm not doing pullups off of it either, although I probably could, because the spine is still stock.
If you've never used something like this, you owe it to yourself to try it. This thing cuts like a laser, far better than any Mora, I guarantee that. Because of the thinned out grind, I have to use far less force while cutting, and the edge lasts longer.
Now, on to steels with large carbides. I have a Queen 4180 in D2 that I did the same thing to. It is by far my cardboard cutting champion (until I got a Dozier). Then, after cutting miles of cardboard, I tried some light fuzz sticks in wood. Here is the result:
http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/?action=view¤t=p1010048.jpg
Ouch! What is hard to tell from this picture, though, is that the knife is so thin at the edge, I was able to take almost all of the damage out in about 5 minutes on a dmt blue. Same knife:
http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/?action=view¤t=p1010007-4.jpg
I took the damage out by putting on a small microbevel. Without thickening the grind, but still using the microbevel, it cuts at 90 - 95% of before, but it doesn't chip out in wood anymore. So for large carbide steels, I think the answer is to have a thin primary grind combined with a relatively large edge angle, say 40 deg. or so. Did I mention that my Doziers are exactly that? Even though the edge grind is larger than I normally use, the thinness of the primary keeps it cutting well - optimized geometry for the type of steel.
While the Bandicoot can take some time to reset the bevel, it does also have a small microbevel that I sharpen 6 - 8 times before I have to reset the larger secondary bevel. I like this because I get a little light saber that still retains it's strength.
Of course, if you play this game, you have to not cry when you find out the limits of a steel. But you can sure learn a lot!
Like I said in another post, I keep my BAD's real thin for game, and keep my other AD's a little thicker for wood. But not too much thicker, INFI can handle it!
http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/?action=view¤t=p1010461.jpg
As a final thought, if I take a chunk out of a knife, or damage it with this experimenting, it would not even occur to me to ask the shop to fix it for free. Any shop. But you all should think about trying it, it *really* raises the performance of the knives, and is a LOT of fun!
PS - Having trouble with Photobucket, working on it...
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:thumbup:
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Very good points and I will take you up on your advice!
He seemed to get a little twitchy when I suggested that he should be up front with his mentioning of modification and change of the edge geometry. Stating that he didn't modify and stating that all resharpening is a change - true to a degree. While he didn't make a major change like drilling a hole or grinding it differently - he did change the edge geometry significantly from factory (to his tastes) and only mentioned it after pressed.
Individual preferences are just that and to each their own but when one has done something to modify, they should mention it up front. Simple.
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He keeps insisting that it's not "modified", but simply "resharpened". His definition of "resharpened" is a little off, IMO, as that blade has been significantly re-profiled compared the Busses I have. But it's his hole, he can dig it as deep as he wants. I'm gonna drink some more and not worry about it.
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He claims his resharpening isn't a modification, but what he does to his knives are way beyond extreme. Edge damage is the price he has to pay. A weak edge is the trade off for the ultra thin sharpening he insists on putting on his knives.
He can call it whatever he lives, but a Busse factory edge wouldn't do that. He only has himself to blame.
He can call it whatever he lives, but a Busse factory edge wouldn't do that. He only has himself to blame.
Cobalt
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regardless of language or not, he indicates 1/8 inch edge width. and this may be correct near the ricasso. take a look at where the edge damage occurred. The edge in that area is about double the width which by his own calcs would mean a 15 degree angle included or 7.5 per side. There is no edge that would last at that angle. You would have to get the edge to an Rc of 65 or greater so that it would last a little longer and then chip off. So he totally f'd up the edge and will not admit it. In fact, I totally believe he intended this with the busse knives. And I knew this as soon as he involved himself in the conversation when not having tested the Fehrman.
That could be, but it's hard to tell without having the knife in question in your hand. Most of my thinned out edges do get wider at the tip, it really depends upon distal taper. As soon as I start reaching the belly, if there isn't any taper there, then the edge widens, simply because the blade isn't as wide, so the primary angle increases. Putting a constant edge bevel on it will be a wider edge bevel.
If the distal taper starts when the belly starts curving up towards the spine (as the BAD does), then the edge bevel will be relatively constant.
On my smaller knives, I'll go ahead and keep a constant edge bevel, even though it means a thin tip. On larger, I'll start increasing it to keep more steel behind the bevel as you get near the tip. I can't really tell from the pictures, but he probably does have an even edge bevel. I use my edgepro to take as much of the guesswork out as possible.
In any event, a small microbevel, say, 2 or 3 strokes on a dmt/ceramic will do very surprising things. It's almost like magic how much it strengthens even a thin edge.
Cobalt
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actually based on his own measurements and the size of a GW, which they are all about the same width it is fairly easy to determine the width of his edge at the last inch of blade. Based on that he's probably right that his angle is 30 on the edge near the ricasso, but 1 inch from the tip it is nearly double the width, which means his angle is half, since it is linear. Meaning that worst case is 7.5 angle on each side and allowing for error maybe 8-9. That is the ragged edge of rippling an edge.
Can someone post a pic of GW that is missing most of it's ricasso, like his. I have not seen one like it.
Can someone post a pic of GW that is missing most of it's ricasso, like his. I have not seen one like it.
Cobalt
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they are and that is why clinchers are so much more popular. technology my friend. Clinchers are nearly as light and much easier to work with. Besides I already carry enough spare tires, don't need to lug anymore
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Really? So if I follow you an iPod sould sound better that that thing I have in the living room since they have sold 50,000,000 of 'em.
.
Bigfattyt
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ROFLMFAO,,,,,,,, I knew,,,,,,, right after I posted the tomato thing,,,, someone would slice up some maters with a FFBM,,,, KNEW IT,,, way to go Bigfattyt..... course you did elaborate on the quote,,,,
that one is actually a very old photo. Just happened to have it handy just in case.