What happened to the snark thread? Revenge of the Antisnark (Runaway Free Snark)

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Will do man, theres not much room to play with so im not sure of a handle idea really, and taking into consideration you say they are kind of brittle i might just leave it as it, i mean it fits perfect in an altoid tin or anywhere really and i always have a regular striker with my fire kit and on my keychain anyways, this is just the coolest one i have :)


I went to sleep for the night, and then wake up, and there was only one new post in the snark since i left.... I am ashamed of you guys ..... :)
 
WW, I must admit: those teeth do throw some neat sparks! Cool find, how come I never thought of that, I even swim in those teeth from time to time.
Somewhat like this, but with teeth instead of gold coins, sadly.
wjhwzs.png
 
worldwood said:
Well you got everyones attention :) great job now tell us the specs lmao
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*lol*

sorry guys, I went right to bed after posting that.
the overall length in the longest dimension is 5".
The cutting edge is 1.4" long.
The width at the widest point at the 'back' of the edge is a hair over 1".
Steel is ~1/8" 154-CM.
The original version of this is the same, but without the bottle opener notched out of the first hole.

This is the second full-size one, and the first with the bottle opener.
Once the sheath issues are sorted out I'll decide if they'll be manufacturable.
They're reasonably simple to make if I can get by without any hand sanding.
There's a 3-hole version that's an inch shorter. It's a nice keychain size IF the sheathing is manageable. The reverse taper and a single-side grind makes it tricky. Single-side grinds make 'em faster to make, but double make's them easier to sheath... so they're still being optimized. Hmm, slimmed slightly they'd fit on my pile of 1"x3/32" 154-CM... that would be lighter and a great keychain size. Hmm.... I wanted to put a screwdriver on the back-end of the bottle opener too, but that would be sharp in the pocket and require a full-coverage sheath.
 
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Chameleonbear said:
My entire forearm is completely shaved now... From the elbow down... However almost ALL of my knives are now sharp as all crap!
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I've had my KME now for almost three months. It's a damned fine rig, but for the life of me I can't get my knives anywhere near as sharp with it as you and Moose seem to be able to. I can freehand my knives better than I use the KME. It's driving me crazy. I got to keep trying, though. I've seen Ethan use one of Moosez' 16's and it was sharp as hell, so I know it can be done, but I seem to have some kind of mental block with it.
 
daizee said:
As promised, straight out of heat-treat. No clean-up yet, and awaiting second temper.
I give you...


The great, the terrible...



Biradashi!!!
("beeradashi"?)
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IMG_20130104_220029-small.jpg



My first to-be-Murph-approved knife since the ill-fated Frankenbecker mod project. (c'mon Murph, give it your blessing!)
double-side ground at 25deg inclusive. haven't decided if it will be a true scandi or get a secondary.
decisions, decisions... obviously a sheath will be a key accessory. That's in progress, including some consulting with one of our own pros.

-Daizee
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Very nice work sir! Can't wait to see it in its final form!
 
Ugh, head is a bit foggy this morning. Was out with some old friends last night and we may have had a few too many Cobblestone Stouts. Might have also overindulged with the bourbon.

Moving slowly. Must...get...coffee.
 
daizee said:
It's a nice keychain size IF the sheathing is manageable. The reverse taper and a single-side grind makes it tricky. Single-side grinds make 'em faster to make, but double make's them easier to sheath...
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You could do sort of an open top kydex scabbard type deal (more of an open spine really) so you could slide the tip in and push the rest down into it

Edit: like the Woodman's pal sheath but small and kydexy
WP5104.jpg
 
TheWambo said:
You could do sort of an open top kydex scabbard type deal (more of an open spine really) so you could slide the tip in and push the rest down into it
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I'd explored several options, including something similar. If it's to go in a pocket it has to be 100% secure, 'cause good god, it would cut you badly in a very bleedy location... An open-top with a securing bolt or snap or something, perhaps. Engineering is in progress. :) In fact, these would be much farther along by now, but they've sat on my bench for several months as I've pondered the sheath problem.
 
daizee said:
I'd explored several options, including something similar. If it's to go in a pocket it has to be 100% secure, 'cause good god, it would cut you badly in a very bleedy location... An open-top with a securing bolt or snap or something, perhaps. Engineering is in progress. :) In fact, these would be much farther along by now, but they've sat on my bench for several months as I've pondered the sheath problem.
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I trust your judgement, and thank you for looking out for our bleedy parts :D
 
daizee said:
I'd explored several options, including something similar. If it's to go in a pocket it has to be 100% secure, 'cause good god, it would cut you badly in a very bleedy location... An open-top with a securing bolt or snap or something, perhaps. Engineering is in progress. :) In fact, these would be much farther along by now, but they've sat on my bench for several months as I've pondered the sheath problem.
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Just thinkin out loud hear Daizee. But what about making the hole closest to the blade a little bit bigger to accommodate a snap. Make a leather sheath that covers the sharp edge then snaps through the hole. It would be very compact and not disrupt the profile.
 
TMHunt said:
Just thinkin out loud hear Daizee. But what about making the hole closest to the blade a little bit bigger to accommodate a snap. Make a leather sheath that covers the sharp edge then snaps through the hole. It would be very compact and not disrupt the profile.
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:thumbup:
 
wasatchdan said:
I've had my KME now for almost three months. It's a damned fine rig, but for the life of me I can't get my knives anywhere near as sharp with it as you and Moose seem to be able to. I can freehand my knives better than I use the KME. It's driving me crazy. I got to keep trying, though. I've seen Ethan use one of Moosez' 16's and it was sharp as hell, so I know it can be done, but I seem to have some kind of mental block with it.
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Here is what I do.

Start with the 3rd coarsest stone and keep it going till the edge looks polished. Then the next one and do the same thing it will look more polished, then finish off with the white stone. Then strop.

I don't know if I do it correctly but I don't do it the same way as freehanding. Freehanding you move only one way. With the KME I go back and forth... I'll do a video for you in a few minutes. It will make more sense then.
 
Chameleonbear said:
Here is what I do.

Start with the 3rd coarsest stone and keep it going till the edge looks polished. Then the next one and do the same thing it will look more polished, then finish off with the white stone. Then strop.

I don't know if I do it correctly but I don't do it the same way as freehanding. Freehanding you move only one way. With the KME I go back and forth... I'll do a video for you in a few minutes. It will make more sense then.
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Not necessarily. On my knives, or blades that need a lot of work, I use forward and backward strokes to expedite the process. Only on the last few strokes do I just go one way. Granted this may not work for every one, but it seems to work fine for me.
 
I go both ways most of the time then on the last few strokes I go one way edge trailing.
 
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