What kind of folder do you carry?

TRfromMT said:
I've become really partial to M4 in folding knives. I now have a couple spydercos and a benchmade and I can get them just silly sharp (for me, that's a real accomplishment), just on my sharpmaker. The steel holds an edge for a long time. The benchmade contego is a bit oversized (ok, maybe a lot), but it hides in the pocket surprisingly well!

All things considered, I'd rather carry a large folder than a small fixer, so that's my personal leaning.
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I've only had one folder in M4 which was the beastly PM2-M4. I had asked @adamlau who is a whiz kid with tinkering to make it buttery smooth for me and he did such a great job that I just had to sell it to him :D

The great thing about Spyderco is that they forge ahead with all kinds of so-called super steels: Maxamat, M4, S90V, etc in their sprint runs and exclusives... I am fairly certain that the Marcin Slysz's Bowie iteration will be revisited in a different steel and hopefully a slightly different blade shape. So far, I have liked what I see from the collaboration between that Polish knife maker and Spyderco.
 
JustinFournier said:
M4 in a pocket? How long till it’s a bar of rust?
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It' funny you ask that because between the time I sent my PM2-M4 to Adam and got it back, it darkened just during transit from LA to San Diego. He didn't live close to the beach and I live far enough so that when the knife was with me and carried in the pocket very occasionally, it never developed a patina but while in a bubble wrapped, it must have managed to interact with the whatever "moisture" it found in its bubble cocoon! Nothing that a bit of BarKeepers friend did not take but to come back full circle to your question, I can clearly see as to how that patina can become permanent and irreversible and as you have put it, the M4 develops some surface rust.

For where I live the M4 steel is not going to be too problematic but I am also OCD and my HAP40 used to give me fits darkening by just cutting apples, bananas and tomatoes!
 
Thanks Mat. It's one I could never try given the climate up in the PNW. Sounds like you shipped it without a coat of oil?
 
JustinFournier said:
Thanks Mat. It's one I could never try given the climate up in the PNW. Sounds like you shipped it without a coat of oil?
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I never put a lick of oil on it either sending it out so it could've very well developed a patina while outbound.

Adam did such a great job on it which made it the smoothest free dropping PM2, which he just had to buy back from me ;)
 
Casinostocks said:
I never put a lick of oil on it either sending it out so it could've very well developed a patina while outbound.

Adam did such a great job on it which made it the smoothest free dropping PM2, which he just had to buy back from me ;)
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I know the feeling. I tune all my knives, including my Shiros. I’ve done other people’s as well, including fixing problems
 
I'm a Spyderco and GEC fan.

I live in the humid southeast, so I resisted getting an M4 folder for years because of the rust concern. All the while, I knew carbon steel slipjoints were the rule for decades, but...

Now M4 has helped me fall out of love with stainless steels. It has been no worse to maintain than any of my carbon steel slippies. Love this steel. The edge stability blows me away.
 
These two 52100 Spyderco are my favorite currently. The forced patina on the blades made them truly unique to me. A few light passes on the strop will bring back their keen edge.

The action on the PM2 is also one of the best in my collection. There is zero blade play and the blade drop freely when the lock is disengaged.

38461096592_02957a63d0_k_d.jpg
 
donscpoo donscpoo have you posted a "how to" thread on how you have achieved those forced patinas? I'm reluctant to simply experiment to see what results I get (although I'm a little more willing to modify and experiment maybe than most would be...). I'm looking for info to get me started.

If you have, please send me to the link. Thanks!
 
I've been carrying and using the hell out of this knife for 4 1/2 years. Best folder I've ever used

Vp1MW2p.jpg
 
TRfromMT said:
donscpoo donscpoo have you posted a "how to" thread on how you have achieved those forced patinas? I'm reluctant to simply experiment to see what results I get (although I'm a little more willing to modify and experiment maybe than most would be...). I'm looking for info to get me started.

If you have, please send me to the link. Thanks!
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Not speaking for Don, but looking at them, I think it’s mustard. I think textured plastic to apply, bubble wrap? Maybe Don mentioned it somewhere.
 
Yes, Justin is right. Mustard and bubble wrap are my recipe. The pattern was created by using the bubble wrap to dap away the excessive mustard.
 
JustinFournier said:
Has the first one changed at all since you originally forced the Patina?
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The blade of the Millie which I forced patina first has became darker. The oil from my fingers and the air might have something to do with it. I have the habit of using my fingers to wipe of any dirt on the blade after I used it.
 
donscpoo said:
The blade of the Millie which I forced patina first has became darker. The oil from my fingers and the air might have something to do with it. I have the habit of using my fingers to wipe of any dirt on the blade after I used it.
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Thanks Don. I’m always curious about these things
 
JustinFournier said:
M4 in a pocket? How long till it’s a bar of rust?
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I've carried this every day since I've owned it (a year maybe?). Granted it's got some nice and natural patina on it, but no rust. I just make sure to rinse off anything acidic and dry it off. No other oil or rust-inhibitor.

YYeGXeW.jpg
 
trevitrace said:
I've carried this every day since I've owned it (a year maybe?). Granted it's got some nice and natural patina on it, but no rust. I just make sure to rinse off anything acidic and dry it off. No other oil or rust-inhibitor.

YYeGXeW.jpg
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Ooooo not bad!!

I wonder if it’s just the salt here.
 
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