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Discussion in 'Carothers Performance Knives' started by Nathan the Machinist, Jul 9, 2016.
We are doing ergonomic model studies now
I've heared that some people used to do damascus from cpm 3v with other steels. I've read it's too complex and hard to forge 3v.
I've seen Ben Tendick lately started doing some San Mai with some steels. With 5-ton press or something like that. So San Mai is easier to make than damascus (as it is just sandwiching two different steels together).
D3V is beast of it's kind but we know that it isn't stainless (tho because of Delta protocol it's almost stainless) and AEB-L stainless beast (but not as durable as D3V, right?).
So I had one idea in my mind lately. What would come out if one will make San Mai with D3V and AEB-L. To take 3V as core and AEB-L as jacket. So it will have beast within (3V) and stainless exterior thants to AEB-L.
Yeah I know it will cost a lot more than stock D3V or AEB-L but when I think about modern day knifemaking perfection I sometimes think about it if it is possible to execute.
And I believe you would make perfect heat treat which would work for both steels in that badass sandwhich.
That kind of San Mai would be amazing for any type of blade in my opinion. Starting from 3" EDC ending with 18" KOD.
And I know Nathan you have seen but some folks may haven't seen it, look how beautiful and powerful San Mai looks:
I’m still dreaming of a dagger with 4 inches of cutting edge . FD1 ( Field dagger 1) LOL .
That's MY integral boot dagger!
And this is MY integral boot dagger! (and its almost 4" as far as I remember)
Well cutting edge is around 3" but you know we count all the steel after handle as blade length...
Got lazy with blade finish so stopped at 600 grit sandpaper and anywaus I wanted it as user so it came up "scratch friendly" finish.
Handle is antique mahogany and worst part was serration to work with. Took me several hourse of work with dremel to make those teeth and my eyes hurt that day lol.
And honestly it WAS my boot dagger which I used to carry on my calf but then my friend asked me so many times that I gave it to him and he is that big person that when he goes in woods he carries it on his arm with leather belts strapped around his biceps lol.
Nathan the Machinist as Im new to your forums have you every thought about re-curves?
I found them practical. Not those fancy ones which are somelike kukri.. something between like karambit but not with that small pointy tip. Ive made one about year ago, then gave it to friend ill post pic as ill get if you are interested. Blade was around 5" long. When used it it was too practical because of recurve shape. Nothing could escape from its edge lol. And i used to makes with small curvature. So they are between chopper and recurve...
Here I found old scrap which iv cut out after giving that 5" to my friend. It was hiding in old stuff and havent had time to finish this one. Blade is 3.5" edge style is almost same as on 5".
Well couldnr resisr temptarion and quickly made mahogany handle with some scrap antique mahogany i had left.
If needed can be hold with all 4 fingers.
But mainly 3 finger grip..
Still gotta finish with gouges the thumb groove on beginning of handle..
I find this style practical and only downside is there is no stabbing tip but you have that OG Shiv which I believe is best stabber lol.
Also I scratches for big recruve same style. But size of Medium Chopper.
I have made this scratches for steel shit I had left. Thickness is like on HDMC and BC. Sadly it was getting narrow at end and I wasnt able to leave full size steel tang like you do on you knives handles. But for weight balance was going to leave whole steel in handle without skeletonizing it.
Anyways if I had steel of any size I like I would tweak its design a bit.
I like how they perform in woods and chopping and slashing stuff. That curvature isnt big and freaky and it's enough to catch everything in its blade.
Also I was thinkig to leave top side flat or maybe I would make like japanese blades usually had.
I find that kind of back very useful not just aesthitically beautiful.
Back in days when I "forged" short swords from leaf springs steel (and they where from Soviet cars lol) I used to make back that way not only they where japanese style swords but it was practical in woods. You knownleaf spring sucks a lot compared to 3V, so it dulls easily when hitting dried tree limbs. And anyway they break after being hit not cut as they are dried. And oak and hardwood limbs where dulling edge easily so i used my swords back for hitting limbs and it was working great because of its shape /\ and i preserved edge for other fresh stuff lol.
So with my amazing mobile editing skills scratch will look like this for what "swedge" on top.
Just when Im manually grinding with angle grinder first I have to remove material like on first picture, so blade tip wont be as sick as at riccaso. Then i do that "swedge"...
So this kind of "chopper" works great if you are recurve lover. There where times when I hicked in mountains and there were places where you just couldbt swing 18" sword so something of length from MC to BC would work amazing. And this style carches everything up inside and wont let go until it cuts till another end lol.
Im sorry honestly if I am overtrying. You are all best with designs and Lorien is awesome. I will be just happy if I can help you with something lol.
Check out the back edge on the K-18 sword
Ikr. Basicly K-18 is double edge sword. I meant unsharpened swedge. Which doesnt need maintaining and sharpenning and can bash and crash everything on its way.
And if you meant recurve back edge of K-18. yeah thats kind of staff what I meant. But its double edged sword. And its practical on single edge blade.
For example here is scrap ive cut.
Its as long as MC and as thick as HDMC. It needs main grinding and that swedge on back. It won't be perfect piece as because I had lack of material had to narrow handle but full tang will make it balance and I count on mahogany or oak which will wrap around and fill handle.
Swords are good, no not good, great, essential I would say. Thats why I made one from 3V. But I've been in lots of situations in forest where you can't swing 18" sword or evenmore its hard to drag it out of scabbard because you are all surrounded by stuff...
So 8" 10" 12" blades play their role amazingly in situations like that.
Those mountains are full of adventures. Hope you understand me. I'm type of guy who can just take knife and go alone in mountains from 6 am till 11pm. I just love all that feelings... and because of practical use I came up to those solutions as I used to stay in mountains and forest for several days and sometimes for weeks alone (well honestly sometimes for 2-3 months...) that survival, wildlife situations are part of me to be honest. And you know what you gotta take with you in forest, small fixed blade, medium knife, something like machete, hatchet, even fellig axe... what about food when you stay for month in mountains? Wheat and honey are long lasting energy source... and what you find on trees or on ground like mushrooms and wild strawbarry... maaan I cant shut my mouth up again.. sorry guys.
Edit: with some experience and practice I tried different styles of blades. Besides traditional forms which Nathan does at his best, I've tried weird and unusual styles.
Afrer making this:
I found that it wasn't as practical as I wanted so I changed curvature inwards and came up with what I've shared which worked amazingly. (Only downside was that you cant stab with them lol)
Looking at both designs with the curve sweeping in or out, I much prefer the first one you posted. Possibly taking the tip back a little more making a little more pointed, but like the idea of pull cuts where the blade pulls the work in. Nice designs and hold you keep up with this.