What Makes a Good, Traditional Barlow?

Thanks for showing us Burnside!:thumbup:

(And thanks for the extra credit, Teach!):)
 
Hey Charlie et. al., sorry if this is asking an obvious and silly question (perhaps it was covered earlier but 22 pages later...), but when it says on the tube that the bolsters (and liners) are steel; it means carbon right? So the bolsters will take a patina?
 
I must say that I have been known to make the statement about the Case chestnut bone CV sway back jack, that it was the best value I ever got in a pocket knife. Now I must say that for these Barlows, the Case SBJ has been matched. These cost a bit more, but they are a bit more. I may have to make an adjustment to my value meter. I hope my first one arrives today. If it does I'll be back with a photo. I can say that pricing on these has been a pleasant surprise.

I did receive my Boys knife earlier this week and it is top shelf for a production knife and I love playing with it in the dark. Hehehe!

Ed J
 
Permission has come down to me, that I may re-post the back label on the TC Barlows.
Thanks for asking for it, Duncan, et.al.

(FYI this was the third complete re-write!)

barlowlabelback.jpg


About the only thing I should have added, is "Don't forget to Oil the Joints"!!
 
That is just amazing, and I am extremely grateful that that was included with the tubes Charlie, I don't mean any disrespect when I say this, but my friend I don't care how much you talk it down, you do deserve this recognition, and to have that illustration and script is just great when we have luckily and gratefully been included in the watching of one of the greater Barlows being born again.
Aint nobody kicking that bucket while I'm around! :)
 
Thanks for the decidedly positive statement, Duncan! (The check is in the mail - kick drum/cymbal clash:D)
Seriously, I'm just here to push the real talent!! (another kick drum/cymbal clash:D:D)
Take my knife - please!! etc, etc. . . .:D:D:D

Bemo, they are a lower carbon steel, to keep them from wearing out the dies that make them.
I am sure they will oxidize or stain, which in fact is the patina process. I might just force one, to decide the issue!!
So can I blame you if I wind up with a rusty knife??:eek:;)
 
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Oh heck yeah, blame me. Patina one of these babies and you'll have a hard time telling it apart from that iconic NY barlow you patterned it after.
 
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Wow...1095 gets up a Patina real quick, even a good stab into a Potato and leaving it there will work!
 
I'm a firm believer in cider vinegar. I scrub the knife real good and dry it completely. I heat the vinegar in this skinny little glass I have, in a microwave, 'til it starts to bubble slightly. (don't boil it!). Insert knife. Leave until it is black, moving it slightly to move fresh acid to the metal.
Rinse and rub it with a cloth or paper towel.
My Bullwinkle has kept its homemade patina/bluing for a year, and I never worry about it rusting!
We will find out soon if it makes a good traditional Barlow Better!!
 
mmmm I might just try this on my 2011 E/O, one of my edc's , as it does tend to surface rust if left alone after use (at the times you dont alwyas get to wipe with a little Mineral Oil) actually..tonight this may happen! :eek:
As I Gargle with Cider Vinegar when I feel a sore throat coming on, good-bye sore throat! 1/3rd Cider Vinegar with 2/3rds water.

Ma throat be Patina'd
 
Well your words certainly don't come out rusty, Duncan!;)

So maybe we should re-label this thread Barlow Abuse!!??
But I guess making a Barlow better sort of falls within the initial purview!!:cool:

First check out the results:
Left, new out of the Tube. Middle, the Acid Trip. Right, the Real Thing!
TCAbuse1.jpg

TCAbuse2.jpg


The "new" bolster looks dark because that's how the scanner reads "real shiny".
I strongly recommend NOT doing what I did! I soaked the entire knife in vinegar (acid!).
I flushed it well in hot water, and saturated it with mineral oil when I was done, but I raised some grain on the bone, and Lord knows what I've done to the hidden surfaces of the steel, joints etc.
I have proven that the bolsters will patina, however!
The blade is irregularly coated. I just remembered I had to fine sand the blades first to get a real even patina. How easily old Geezers forget.:grumpy:
 
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Interesting, I was thinking when I was observing your photo's of their Patina, that you would have to handle the knife very carefully - as in not to get finger oils etc on the Bolster and Blade to create unevenness.
When you mention sanding-I agree, sanding is what you term as "mechanical keying" and what you are doing is using Cider Vinegar as an Chemical Key, "key" being the etch.
Mechanical, combined with the Chemical Keying qualities of the Vinegar will provide maximum "keying".
 
You* DO have to handle it carefully. But also, when GEC applied the various etches, they changed the "keys".
There are different lines and "haloes" around those etches that don't show up in the scan. Anyway, a pretty crude job.
I will doctor the knife a little, maybe sand the bone slightly to get rid of the grain, and carry it for a while, and get some genuine patina on it!


*Watch your mailbox, Duncan - shhhhh!
 
Oh sweet patina...teach us to number our days so that we may apply our hearts unto wisdom.

It will age well, Charlie!
 
Nice Charlie! I'm not usually a fan of forced patina but as an experiment and showing what mine will eventually evolve to, it's a wonderful exerciese. Thanks for doing this.
 
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I'm not even allowed to joke about selling knives on here, Bemo!
But anyway, I am going to continue to use this knife (in a much kinder fashion!) to see how these new #15s perform.
 
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