What popular knives that you don't understand why

sodak said:
I've used moras for a long time - over 20 years. There are many grinds and knives that are much better, both for wood as well as other things. Using and sharpening these are not the problem, they are fine for a cheap knife. But they don't come close to better designs.
Click to expand...

Like what? I'm always interested in new designs.
 
Out of curiosity what better designs are you talking about?
sodak said:
I've used moras for a long time - over 20 years. There are many grinds and knives that are much better, both for wood as well as other things. Using and sharpening these are not the problem, they are fine for a cheap knife. But they don't come close to better designs.
Click to expand...
 
It must be a custom... I know there are better knives for wood work than a scandi Mora, but MUCH better than a scandi Mora ? Is it a chisel? Lol
 
The thing that sticks out to me that's over rated is Hinderer. Sure it's a nice flipper knife thats built well. But no way is it worth 750$. I give the thumbs down to how people act over them.
 
shinyedges said:
It must be a custom... I know there are better knives for wood work than a scandi Mora, but MUCH better than a scandi Mora ? Is it a chisel? Lol
Click to expand...
Actually yes. A woodcarving set with various short blade ,chisel ground knives. Of course , not meant for carry.

Ohhh and yes, I am a card carrying member of the Mora Haters Club ;)

Full convex beats scandi.... :D:eek:
 
Lol its all good man I'm not a "die hard" Mora fan I just like them and use them. I assume by much better sodak was reffering to some knife that vastly out performed the Mora on wood in which case I want to know what knife so I can get one lol chisels and kits too much for me to lug around lol
Todd21969 said:
Actually yes. A woodcarving set with various short blade ,chisel ground knives. Of course , not meant for carry.

Ohhh and yes, I am a card carrying member of the Mora Haters Club ;)

Full convex beats scandi.... :D:eek:
Click to expand...
 
afishhunter said:
Serrated Edges. I don't get them at all. Why not just get a saw?
Click to expand...

Serrations provide a number of advantages (in addition to their well-known disadvantages) chiefly reducing the surface area of initial contact so the points pierce to initiate the cut (particularly advantageous on fibrous or materials that are both hard and slippery like plastic) as well as shielding the interior of the serrations from damage if cutting against a backing surface that will dull a knife, like metal, stone, or glass. Only the tips of the serrations will dull, while the interior of the serrations remain sharp and able to cut the softer target material.
 
shinyedges said:
I sharpen my moras quick and easy... put the bevel flat on your stone or sandpaper and do a few passes on each side... razor sharp in like 1 minute or less.
Click to expand...

I can do the same thing with most knives FREEHAND, even in the High Alloy steels like S90V, S110V, 10V etc that are supposed to be hard to sharpen, it's all about technique and having the right equipment.

Not really a big deal.
 
sodak said:
While I love super steels, I'd be quite happy to spend the rest of my days with a Vic Huntsman or Farmer.
Click to expand...

I've spent way too much money over the years on knives I rarely used. I used to carry a Benchmade AFCK or a Spyderco Endura but when I needed a knife my hand went in my pocket and pulled out my Vic Pioneer or whatever stockman I might be carrying that day. The medium stockman (Case, Schrade, Buck) or a SAK will do 99% of what I need a knife for.
 
Ankerson said:
I can do the same thing with most knives FREEHAND, even in the High Alloy steels like S90V, S110V, 10V etc that are supposed to be hard to sharpen, it's all about technique and having the right equipment.

Not really a big deal.
Click to expand...


Agreed.

I just reprofiled CPM M4 in no time.

stropemliketheyrehot_zpslzfcxhcd.jpg



In the middle of stropping. M4 and CTS XHP
 
Krissig12 said:
Maybe it's because enough people find 3 inches to be plenty for most Edc needs? If you find that you need a 5 incher, that's cool too, but I certainly Have no practical use for one. As a result, I fail to see the point in adding extra weight, bulk, and cumbersome length to the end of my knife. I've tried carrying bigger knives, but I find that it only does two things......scare more people and make small tasks a harder. With length also usually comes greater thicknesses, meaning that your cutting geometry typically starts to suffer as you get into larger and larger blades. I feel much better carrying a nice thin 3inch cutter than a big old 5 inch tactical blade that WEDGES stuff apart;)

For me 2.7-3.5 is right about perfect for my needs. Anything else is unnecessary, and just makes me feel like I'm doing it "because I can".
Click to expand...
For me it's not the blade length per se but the handle length that comes with that blade length. I don't feel comfortable holding a knife unless it has a handle length of 5 inches at the least. Knives with that handle length tend to have 4 inch and up blades. No matter how much I try I simply cannot get used to the smaller sized 3.25-3.65 inch blade knives because of their smaller handle size, and I always gravitate back towards 4-4.6 inch blade knives.
 
I also free hand with good results, I don't Have any issues sharpening steel with high carbides. Lately I find my self enjoying the aus8a on my cold steel. Ridiculous easy to repair and sharpen. I enjoy super steel as much as the next guy but lately gone back to simple. Eh so many choices we really have it made now a days.
Ankerson said:
I can do the same thing with most knives FREEHAND, even in the High Alloy steels like S90V, S110V, 10V etc that are supposed to be hard to sharpen, it's all about technique and having the right equipment.

Not really a big deal.
Click to expand...
 
I'm in the same boat as you, I have large wide hands and little handles bother me.
asdf12345 said:
For me it's not the blade length per se but the handle length that comes with that blade length. I don't feel comfortable holding a knife unless it has a handle length of 5 inches at the least. Knives with that handle length tend to have 4 inch and up blades. No matter how much I try I simply cannot get used to the smaller sized 3.25-3.65 inch blade knives because of their smaller handle size, and I always gravitate back towards 4-4.6 inch blade knives.
Click to expand...
 
shinyedges said:
I also free hand with good results, I don't Have any issues sharpening steel with high carbides. Lately I find my self enjoying the aus8a on my cold steel. Ridiculous easy to repair and sharpen. I enjoy super steel as much as the next guy but lately gone back to simple. Eh so many choices we really have it made now a days.
Click to expand...

I find the high alloy steels at high hardness easier to deal with personally once the bevel is set, a few passes on a Strop, Ceramic rod etc and that's it.

And that's from someone who uses S110V and S90V daily.

It's as simple as one wants to make it, or if they want to make it hard, it can be as hard as they want to make it.
 
I agree, I convex most of my edges as I find it easier to maintain. I just can't maintain the angle to keep a v grind the way it is while free handing on stone or sand paper. Having removed dents and chips from high carbide steels I find aus8a significantly quicker in this area, albeit I don't have diamond stones. Not more difficult, but a little more time no big deal anyway.
Ankerson said:
I find the high alloy steels at high hardness easier to deal with personally once the bevel is set, a few passes on a Strop, Ceramic rod etc and that's it.

And that's from someone who uses S110V and S90V daily.

It's as simple as one wants to make it, or if they want to make it hard, it can be as hard as they want to make it.
Click to expand...
 
shinyedges said:
I agree, I convex most of my edges as I find it easier to maintain. I just can't maintain the angle to keep a v grind the way it is while free handing on stone or sand paper. Having removed dents and chips from high carbide steels I find aus8a significantly quicker in this area, albeit I don't have diamond stones. Not more difficult, but a little more time no big deal anyway.
Click to expand...

I set the bevel on my Edge Pro (V Edge) then from then on it's quick and simple from then on.

And on top of that I don't have to deal with the high alloy steels hardly at all compared to the lower alloy ones, something like 10:1 or more touching up doing the same work.

And the same amount of time touching up, a few passes when I do.

So I am moving away from the low alloy steels more as time goes on, don't see the point anymore, not worth the added time and effort.
 
I've been eye balling an edge pro , I would like to keep a v grind on some knives. I get what your saying, Its hard to deny the significant advantages of super steels especially if you can sharpen.. no draw backs really. Your a fortunate one, I've only been able to use and sharpen a handful of steel like m4,d2,s30v,154cm, 80crv2,1095 and a few others I really want to try out 3v.
Ankerson said:
I set the bevel on my Edge Pro (V Edge) then from then on it's quick and simple from then on.

And on top of that I don't have to deal with the high alloy steels hardly at all compared to the lower alloy ones, something like 10:1 or more touching up doing the same work.

And the same amount of time touching up, a few passes when I do.

So I am moving away from the low alloy steels more as time goes on, don't see the point anymore, not worth the added time and effort.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top