What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Yes, its a typical gaucho sheat, to be used exactly as you described. It also works for pocket carry, but is not that safe against accidental lost.


Pablo
 
PEU:

Nice colors! Any chance of a spine shot, so we can see the liner colors?

Thanks!

Yes, here they are:

red+black
woQTwRK.jpg


brown+ivory
GiZLjr7.jpg


grey+black
hGsezTE.jpg


tinted orange+red
8MvteOJ.jpg


green+white
4hffbqb.jpg


light blue+white (our national flag colors)
gLHhhmX.jpg



Pablo
 
Thanks PEU,

I always have admired your work and generosity of showings us your knives and spending time to explain how you do things.
 
I am finishing three knives right now and I really didn't feel like mirror polishing them. Especially because one had a few areas with some deeper imperfections I wasn't going to be able to get. So I decided to go with a matte finish. I saw hand rubbing and I was going to try that perpendicular to the blade. I also thought about using a random orbit sander which did an ok job on a test piece a while back. But now I have tried these, they are plastic wire brushes with abrasives imbedded inside.
Here is a link http://www.amazon.com/Dico-50-3-Wheel-Assorted-Brushes/dp/B001F527SW/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1446969956&sr=8-22&keywords=plastic+wire+brush+abrasive

Well I went with the coarse first. 80 grit is says and it put a decent sort of brushed finish. Would have liked it a little finer but oh well. I then tried to move up to the next, 120 or 150? and then to the fine, 240 grit. Well for some reason the medium and fine didn't do a good job at taking out the marks left by the coarse. Had I started with the medium I might have come out with a nice finish.I tried the fine in the beginning but it just didn't seem to do enough. They are very easy to use, chuck them in the drill press and have at it. So now I am debating on whether I am going to keep the finish I have to go try a hand rubbed finish using sanding paper and a sanding block. The blade profiles are convex so not as easy as an angle grind. Here are some phone pictures, of one of the blades. Pleas tell me what you think of the results. I should add that they were sanded on the belt sander till approximately 220 (i think) before I did this.



12227626_911694308911536_3521844609187001921_n.jpg

12227721_911694285578205_6288968553226648963_n.jpg



Thoughts? Anyone?
 
Thoughts? Anyone?
If you have a belt grinder, I see zero use for those disks. The scratch pattern is not uniform which detracts from the knife. You would be much better off with a cork or scotchbrite belt on your sander if you don't want to hand sand.
 
Yeah I think hand sanding would look better as well as just a uniform scotchbrite would work. It should conform to the blade shape as well.

On another note it might be the picture but that looks like one Heck of a convex. I'm not super experienced but I would think you would get better cutting performance if you just convexed the bottom 1/4 or 1/8th or something.

Hopefully someone better than I will comment on that.
 
Thanks guys.
This one is flat ground and taken to 600 grit.

Blade length is I think around four inches or so. The OAL is 9 inches.
Here's a shot of it from the side.

 
This appears to be a covert ad for my micarta, but its not!!

There is a knifemaker show thu/fri/sat here in Buenos Aires, so all the knives I've been posting will go on my table tomorrow, here is today batch :D

L8oSwp1.jpg

bI5uAdf.jpg

EJ96cgW.jpg

Jt1cob1.jpg

E5q3ryI.jpg

5GDWczn.jpg



Pablo
 
Thanks guys.
This one is flat ground and taken to 600 grit.

Blade length is I think around four inches or so. The OAL is 9 inches.
Here's a shot of it from the side.

Share your secrets, how do you get them so clean? Looks awesome! Also, jig or freehand?
 
Yeah I think hand sanding would look better as well as just a uniform scotchbrite would work. It should conform to the blade shape as well.

On another note it might be the picture but that looks like one Heck of a convex. I'm not super experienced but I would think you would get better cutting performance if you just convexed the bottom 1/4 or 1/8th or something.

Hopefully someone better than I will comment on that.

Yeah, I guess the lack of uniformity is distracting. Makes it look more industrial less finished. I don't have any scotch bright belts but I do have belts going up to 600. I was afraid to go that high because that might make the imperfections stand out more. I think I am going to resort to trying a hand sand finish.

It is hard to tell in the photo but the convexed section is narrower than my fingers are wide, maybe 1/2 inch at most?

I think I Just need more experience in figuring out convex grinds in terms of how much to press and what angle to press etc to get a good clean edge. The three knives in the one photo represent only the 3rd, 4th, and 5th, knife I ever did from scratch. And my first was under the eye of an expert so that probably doesn't even count!

I need to get a better belt grinder too. The 2x72 should give me much better results than my current 2x42.

I vaguely remember someone mentioning a random orbit sander or a vibrating palm sander but I cannot recall the details. I am hesitant to try it on these since they are close to finish. I do realize they have a limitation because they have a pad underneath the sandpaper whereas with metal one needs a hard surface under the sand paper.
 
I am finishing three knives right now and I really didn't feel like mirror polishing them. Especially because one had a few areas with some deeper imperfections I wasn't going to be able to get. So I decided to go with a matte finish. I saw hand rubbing and I was going to try that perpendicular to the blade. I also thought about using a random orbit sander which did an ok job on a test piece a while back. But now I have tried these, they are plastic wire brushes with abrasives imbedded inside.
Here is a link http://www.amazon.com/Dico-50-3-Wheel-Assorted-Brushes/dp/B001F527SW/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1446969956&sr=8-22&keywords=plastic+wire+brush+abrasive

Well I went with the coarse first. 80 grit is says and it put a decent sort of brushed finish. Would have liked it a little finer but oh well. I then tried to move up to the next, 120 or 150? and then to the fine, 240 grit. Well for some reason the medium and fine didn't do a good job at taking out the marks left by the coarse. Had I started with the medium I might have come out with a nice finish.I tried the fine in the beginning but it just didn't seem to do enough. They are very easy to use, chuck them in the drill press and have at it. So now I am debating on whether I am going to keep the finish I have to go try a hand rubbed finish using sanding paper and a sanding block. The blade profiles are convex so not as easy as an angle grind. Here are some phone pictures, of one of the blades. Pleas tell me what you think of the results. I should add that they were sanded on the belt sander till approximately 220 (i think) before I did this.



12227626_911694308911536_3521844609187001921_n.jpg

12227721_911694285578205_6288968553226648963_n.jpg



The grit progression I use is to double your grit each time to get a nice satin finish or up to mirror finish.

Try 36 grit for the heavy work, 60 for bevel refinement 120 grit for first finish and then 220 and Scotchbrite or finer if you like.
 
Love the maroon and black.

that is insane flex on the fillet knife. Nice job!

Keep us posted on the show. Love to see some pics of your table.

This appears to be a covert ad for my micarta, but its not!!

There is a knifemaker show thu/fri/sat here in Buenos Aires, so all the knives I've been posting will go on my table tomorrow, here is today batch :D

L8oSwp1.jpg

bI5uAdf.jpg

EJ96cgW.jpg

Jt1cob1.jpg

E5q3ryI.jpg

5GDWczn.jpg



Pablo
 
Yes but it appears that you need to bevel your blades and then convex them. It could be the picture but it appears that there is no bevel just a convex. I could be wrong.
 
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