What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Made myself a knife. I've been using various test knives for the last 8 years, and I wanted a few that were made for what I cook and have an aesthetic i like
All 26c3 steel, ebonised jarrah handles. The rack is made from some of the same jarrah. I'll post some close up photos when the light cooperates, it's very grey down here at the moment
cfc85d2bc8feb91e.jpg
 
A good trick is to put the magnets on the back side of the board.
a Fostner bit to make the pocket holes go about 1/16" shy of the other side. Glue in the magnets and mount the board with the face side out. It looks almost like magic when you set a knife on it and it just stays there.

Another way to get the same effect is to route a groove in the back of a board to hold a bar magnet strip. Epoxy in the bar magnet and mount as above with only the wood showing.

1753094931221.png
 
Alex Topfer Alex Topfer , another trick is to use a pole piece with your magnet - it concentrates the holding power and allows you to use smaller magnets. Using it, you won't notice some areas of the board sticking better than others, it'll all just stick well.

KJ Magnetics has a great article about it (they don't use pole pieces in the article), but they do talk about the important issue of how thin to make the wooden veneer.
 
Finished this one up this morning before going into work. 3" tip to plunge, 7.5" OAL, 1/8" thick, 64 HRC Magnacut with Carbon Fiber/Copper Marble, Mosaic Pins, copper lanyard tube and orange liners. Carbon fiber pattern Holstex sheath. I left the handle sanded at 2000 grit and didn't do the Tung oil on it. The smooth, natural carbon fiber still has nice grip when it's wet, so I didn't want the Tung Oil to seal it up and feel too slippery. Plus the more charcoal color of the carbon fiber matches the sheath better!
524386181_18059122298582960_6574508879587924821_n.jpg523502342_18059122286582960_2211343583233914783_n.jpg523562767_18059122268582960_8399929902136736058_n.jpg524233927_18059122259582960_6263152251762580385_n.jpg523111774_18059122250582960_9101290911622017442_n.jpg523345552_18059122238582960_5565845359401824598_n.jpg
 
I got a little custom carbide piece from RD_Knives earlier this week. The scale looks a little off in the photo but, it fits the KMG integral/waterfall platen perfectly. I haven’t mounted it yet because I need to radius the edges. They were left sharp per my request.

IMG_1092.jpeg
 
I just finished up my first Pops Procut knife. It's a backwoods hunter made from 3/32" Procut steel that was heat treated to 1550 degrees (HRC 61). The handles are tri-color Richlite backed with a yellow liner and everything was secured with some corby bolts and epoxy.
Procut_1.jpeg
Procut_2.jpeg
Procut_3.jpeg
 
In progress in the shop right now. A couple Raiders and a new model I haven’t named yet. The “broken back” handle design was heavily inspired by the Carothers EDC2 and used with Nathan’s permission.

Couple days of handle shaping ahead of me!

View attachment 2935317
haha! You're welcome!👍
 
Just finished up these bird and trout style knives tonight. They're made from .061" AEB-L stainless steel and have a variety of Micarta handles installed. I just gotta finish up the sheaths for them and they're ready to go!
IMG_8180.jpeg
 
Well, I finally finished this bird and trout up for my buddy's 14 y/o son. Criticisms welcome.
1000002745.jpg

1000002746.jpg

1000002747.jpg

Yeah, I know my pics are bad...
Leather or kydex for the sheath? I'm leaning towards kydex, I know how I treated things when I was a teenager.
 
Back
Top