What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Here's my latest RF2 Framelock.

This one features a Zirconium pivot collar, Ti Pivot with hardened steel barrel, all Ti screws, polished/shaped hardened stainless floating stop pin, stonewashed blue ano with secondary "metallic" ano, ceramic bearings, carbidized lock face, sculpted frame, Ti knocker pommel, double hollow grind, polished edge, orange peel finish including blade perimeter/spine/choil, dead centered as always with crazy smooth bearing action! :D







 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Here's my latest RF2 Framelock.

This one features a Zirconium pivot collar, Ti Pivot with hardened steel barrel, all Ti screws, polished/shaped hardened stainless floating stop pin, stonewashed blue ano with secondary "metallic" ano, ceramic bearings, carbidized lock face, sculpted frame, Ti knocker pommel, double hollow grind, polished edge, orange peel finish including blade perimeter/spine/choil, dead centered as always with crazy smooth bearing action! :D







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Handsome looking Folder!
 
This was supposed to be a simple handle....but I got a bit carried away...
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Good grief Tim! That is probably going to look pretty cool when done.

Here is my latest, a long handled petty or short Gyuto. Ben, here is your redwood. Came out ok I think.
Not great pics, but I just wanted to throw something up for you to show the redwood. ....still to be sharpened and cleaned up a bit.


RedwdGyuto1.jpg


RedwdGyuto2.jpg
 
This is an idea I've been working on for a while and recently had the gusto to push it through.

Some time back I saw a knife posted by one of the regulars here(I want to say Scott Roush...???) with a stunning, brush-textured Wenge treatment. I thought that was just smart as hell, and produced a unique look that I've tried to recreate here. I brushed hard into the grain of handle and sheath for at least two hours with a fine stainless steel wire brush found at a welder's supply shop, then blew out all the dust and gave it a 3-coat oil finish sanded to 600. Even with the heavy texture, its still quite smooth with no sharp catchy spots.

After this first chance to work with Caribou, I'm a bit surprised at how relatively soft it is compared to Moose or White Tail. It's also "dirty" well through the whole piece, especially near the crown, with deep black and green and brown streaks and "stains" everywhere. I actually like the look, but unexpected. The antler pieces on front and back of the handle, as well as the two spacers, are all hand carved ferrules. This is a completely straight bladed seax. No curve at the tip. Pointy! Why? Because. :p

Please let me know what you think.

-Peter

Broken Back Seax

Blade: 10 1/2" x approx 5/32" of hand forged 1095 with a brute de forge finish, clay quenched, flat ground bevels hand sanded to 600 grit then etched and polished to reveal a smokey hamon.

Handle: 5 1/8" of wire brushed Wenge' mortised to fit the blade's hidden tang. Caribou antler ferrules on either end accompanied by antler and Rosewood spacer ferrules . The wire brushed wood has a Tung oil finish. The hand turned, domed, and polished antler pin is left slightly proud.

Sheath/Scabbard: Routed, two-piece, wire brushed Wenge' with hand turned Caribou antler stud and leather strap.

























 
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Brock47 said:
Good grief Tim! That is probably going to look pretty cool when done.

Here is my latest, a long handled petty or short Gyuto. Ben, here is your redwood. Came out ok I think.
Not great pics, but I just wanted to throw something up for you to show the redwood. ....still to be sharpened and cleaned up a bit.


RedwdGyuto1.jpg


RedwdGyuto2.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks great! The way handle and that burl gives a very interesting effect. Almost liquid.
 
Working on knives 3,4,5 and 6. The paring blades I messed up so they are now templates. Lots and lots of filing and getting a little practice on the 1x30. Learning that I would give my left arm for a better grinder. Did I mention lots of filing?
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Also learning where not to put my fingers.
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Thank you Rick.

Both. I set the rough bevel on my 1"x30" with a fairly new 120 grit belt, but only gave the tip a couple of light passes each side. Then I switched to whet stones and spent some time getting the tip right, before refining the entire edge. I also finished with a white diamond filled leather belt on my 1"x30" then a "wet newspaper over my whet stone final hone" I learned somewhere. :p

Its sharp as the dickens, and yes, the tip stayed straight thankfully. I'll try to get a better shot of it tonight.

-Peter
 
I love that finish!


P. McKinley said:
This is an idea I've been working on for a while and recently had the gusto to push it through.

Some time back I saw a knife posted by one of the regulars here(I want to say Scott Roush...???) with a stunning, brush-textured Wenge treatment. I thought that was just smart as hell, and produced a unique look that I've tried to recreate here. I brushed hard into the grain of handle and sheath for at least two hours with a fine stainless steel wire brush found at a welder's supply shop, then blew out all the dust and gave it a 3-coat oil finish sanded to 600. Even with the heavy texture, its still quite smooth with no sharp catchy spots.

After this first chance to work with Caribou, I'm a bit surprised at how relatively soft it is compared to Moose or White Tail. It's also "dirty" well through the whole piece, especially near the crown, with deep black and green and brown streaks and "stains" everywhere. I actually like the look, but unexpected. The antler pieces on front and back of the handle, as well as the two spacers, are all hand carved ferrules. This is a completely straight bladed seax. No curve at the tip. Pointy! Why? Because. :p

Please let me know what you think.

-Peter

Broken Back Seax

Blade: 10 1/2" x approx 5/32" of hand forged 1095 with a brute de forge finish, clay quenched, flat ground bevels hand sanded to 600 grit then etched and polished to reveal a smokey hamon.

Handle: 5 1/8" of wire brushed Wenge' mortised to fit the blade's hidden tang. Caribou antler ferrules on either end accompanied by antler and Rosewood spacer ferrules . The wire brushed wood has a Tung oil finish. The hand turned, domed, and polished antler pin is left slightly proud.

Sheath/Scabbard: Routed, two-piece, wire brushed Wenge' with hand turned Caribou antler stud and leather strap.

























Click to expand...
 
Cools stuff Mckinley!

I've been busy busy busy!

But did get some time for fun
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Nice work guys!

I've been gearing up the shop for a big friction folder run... completed the first one last night.

Here's the new Nakago! Everything you can see is Titanium including anodized pins and screw... the only non Ti parts are the washers and pivot barrel. :cool:






 
Ty Rone said:
Long long time lurker. Recent registrant.

That is a beautiful handle!! Did you make the micarta?

I'm in love with this look....
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Thanks Mate! I like the look myself;)

Nope, this is a custom made burlap material made by ShadeTree Custom (google should find there website, great stuff)
 
Just finished up my 2nd knife. Due to it propensity to brown, I elected to patina this 2nd O1 knife with bluing/bleach/fcl. It ends up a mottled black/gray that I like. Here it is next to my first knife:

 
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