What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I just finished up the smaller of this matched pair. These are both intended for hard use with no-nonsense sheaths.

All of the major components of these pieces(leather excluded) come from a generation's old farm that climbs western slopes of the Cape Breton Highlands in the town of Cheticamp. The blade was forged from a "100+ year old" farrier's rasp. The moose antler pieces all come from a nearly intact skull that had been left atop an old shed to weather for several decades before I got a hold of it. The Ambrosia Maple is also from the same property.

Cheticamp Bowie Set

Blade(s): 11 3/4" x approx 1/4", and 7 1/4" x approx 3/16" of forge finish farrier's rasp, flat ground bevels with a 600 grit hand sanded finish.

Handle(s): Wrought iron S-guard and spacer forged from an anchor chain link then etched for texture and lightly polished. Moose antler spacer with birch bark, birch, and bloodwood accents. Natural Ambrosia Maple with buffed tung oil and paste wax finish, and a peened, domed, and polished 1/8" stainless steel pin.

Sheath(s): 6/7 oz veg tanned leather with natural polished edges, leather lanyard, moose antler conch, and a maple bead. The leather has a buffed mink oil finish.

Please let me know your thoughts,

Thank you,
Peter

















 
LARRYZ10 said:
JoshRG, Very nice wood. are you using a wax on the finish? Looks good. Larry
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Thanks Larry,
No finish on either, these are straight off the buffer. :)
Brock47 said:
That is a great piece of ironwood Josh, and you sure didn't let it go to waste. Beautiful work as usual. :)
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Thanks Brock! I always go back and forth on whether or not to use my premium materials. My only solution...buy the best blocks I can find as long as they don't cost an arm and a leg. ;)

Appreciate the kind words gents!

Blessings,
Joshua
 
Finally got around to buffing this guy after allowing the finish to cure. I have to say for the most part I am very happy with the results but I am having issues smoothing out the finish build up at the junction between the wood and the brass bolster. Suffice to say in my efforts to smooth the junction I accidentally buffed through the finish on a section of the handle! :mad: So now I am trying fix the section by reapplying a small amount of finish. Wish me luck!

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groy87 said:
Finally got around to buffing this guy after allowing the finish to cure. I have to say for the most part I am very happy with the results but I am having issues smoothing out the finish build up at the junction between the wood and the brass bolster. Suffice to say in my efforts to smooth the junction I accidentally buffed through the finish on a section of the handle! :mad: So now I am trying fix the section by reapplying a small amount of finish. Wish me luck!

BtkNxI.jpg


iXmwmY.jpg


Omtmqp.jpg


59Nr3X.jpg
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What finish are you using on the wood? That looks really good :)
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Your handle looks great. I use three coats a day for for three days and buff with old T-shirt a then put wax on and buff lightly. What are you doing with Tru-oil?
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I am putting at least 15 coats of truoil with a final buff at the end. The entire process takes about 3 weeks from start to finish. I've never put wax on the handle after I've buffed the truoil finish. Is there reason to do so? I figured that the truoil alone would be durable enough :p
 
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This lovely lady is almost done! Not too happy with myself as I wasn't paying attention when I picked up sanding paper and it's too far to go back right now. I will suffer through the 180 to 400 grit jump as a lesson to always check what you have before you leave the store
 
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I bet you do and for those who haven't worked with Redwood Burl.... Worth every penny, this stuff is some of the most active wood I have ever used.
 
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