What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

First time using wenge. Really like the look
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my favorite little design to make.... I think I am starting to zero in on how best to finish these guys
 
Got my bevels ground on three of my five knives with the help of Fred Rowe's bubble jig system. I'm having fun and feel like I'm getting better with each one. It's slow going with the 1x30, but that's probably good at this level so it's harder to screw it up majorly with a small mistake. Here's two of them. I know, I got length-wise scratches I'll have to clean up on the one while I was trying to get the surface cleaned up.

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Looking good JR. I used the same combo on my kith knife. W2 and leopard wood from burl source.
 
kuraki said:
Decided to make a 1084 prototype for a modified version of a classic Schrade I've been commissioned to do in Z-Wear. I liked how it turned out so I put scales on and made a sheath. I just kinda banged the pin holes in there and now I wish I'd laid them out a little more carefully like I would for the actual knife. Maybe I'll plunk a thong tube through the back still.

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Looking good. The stitching is machine done? Hows that working out?


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Yes, I stitched that on my Boss. I love it. I'm still working out a process for leatherwork that works the way I want. The hardest part is that I can't really put stitch grooves in on both sides because I'm not exactly sure where the stitch will end up on the back side. So the last couple sheaths I did like that one, I didn't groove at all.

I've also run a sheath through without thread, using the machine like an automatic awl, then I could connect the dots with my groove tool, but the problem there is if the stitch length doesn't stay consistent you end up getting out of sync.

Right now my best examples of leather work have been by following this process:

1 make a paper pattern
2 layout on the leather
3 cut the leather and welt
4 Dye and bone all edges
5 Glue and stitch belt loop
6 Glue the sheath and let cure
7 Trim all edges flush with a skiving knife and bevel/bone/slick again
8 Stitch

I've given up on tooling for now. I can never seem to anticipate where my stitch lines will be ahead of time, closely enough. If I try to cut the pattern exact so it doesn't need trimming after gluing, I fail miserably and it gets too small or too big or when formed around the knife the shape is wonky.

I understand completely why a lot of people outsource this part to those who focus on it. I'll be honest. I think learning to make a knife that meets a certain level of professionalism is far easier than making a leather sheath at a similar level :foot:

Now when I see SharpbyCoop post on IG I'm looking at the leather more than the knife
 
kuraki said:
Yes, I stitched that on my Boss. I love it. I'm still working out a process for leatherwork that works the way I want. The hardest part is that I can't really put stitch grooves in on both sides because I'm not exactly sure where the stitch will end up on the back side. So the last couple sheaths I did like that one, I didn't groove at all.

I've also run a sheath through without thread, using the machine like an automatic awl, then I could connect the dots with my groove tool, but the problem there is if the stitch length doesn't stay consistent you end up getting out of sync.

Right now my best examples of leather work have been by following this process:

1 make a paper pattern
2 layout on the leather
3 cut the leather and welt
4 Dye and bone all edges
5 Glue and stitch belt loop
6 Glue the sheath and let cure
7 Trim all edges flush with a skiving knife and bevel/bone/slick again
8 Stitch

I've given up on tooling for now. I can never seem to anticipate where my stitch lines will be ahead of time, closely enough. If I try to cut the pattern exact so it doesn't need trimming after gluing, I fail miserably and it gets too small or too big or when formed around the knife the shape is wonky.

I understand completely why a lot of people outsource this part to those who focus on it. I'll be honest. I think learning to make a knife that meets a certain level of professionalism is far easier than making a leather sheath at a similar level :foot:

Now when I see SharpbyCoop post on IG I'm looking at the leather more than the knife
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I'm working on getting tooled up for doing leather sheaths now. It definitely looks a lot easier watching videos than I'm sure it's going to be. I have some good experience sewing so t may give me a leg up but not holding my breath counting on that.
 
I groove the front, drill the holes with a heavy duty sewing machine needle, then groove the back. If the tool is sharp, it works ok. The Paul Long DVDs are worth every penny, but he machine sews his work. I used to use a twist drill, but I find the needle burnishes as I use it in the drill press. I get pretty clean holes this way.
 
Bunch of different blades I'm hoping to finish up today and tomorrow. :)
 
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Tried to grind my 1st tanto today with decent results. I have 4 fixed blades under my belt, and these are the 1st friction folders I'm attempting. Going for a workshop marking knife / edc blade. Chisel grind?? (As the back side will be flat.) These are left handed...I think, lol.
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Opined #8 for size.

Thanks for all the tips "Team". A lot of really nice blades in here recently.

Follow me on Instagram @B4.Time


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I just finished this custom up and mailed it off today.
It has come to be known as the Lever Cleaver.

Timascus and Damasteel, how can you go wrong?

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Willie71 said:
I groove the front, drill the holes with a heavy duty sewing machine needle, then groove the back. If the tool is sharp, it works ok. The Paul Long DVDs are worth every penny, but he machine sews his work. I used to use a twist drill, but I find the needle burnishes as I use it in the drill press. I get pretty clean holes this way.
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I glue mine, sand, groove then chisel from both sides. This gives a nice rustic hand stitched look.


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How do you cut your patterns? I made myself a crescent leather knife from .060 15N20 and so far that's been the best solution, but the book I have from ABS talks about using a "leather shear" type scissor.
 
Utilty knife for me, but they suck. I'm no youngster either, so my wrist/thumb take a beating. Plus with a utility knife you have to be careful not to create a unwanted bevel on your edge. I definitely could use a cresent leather knife. Pushing is easier than pulling. Aren't leather shears for thin leather? Post a pic. Rich


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That's just it, I read about it in a book and the book doesn't really have a photo. I was going to try and sharpen a set of old school tin snips I have with an acute cutting edge and see how that works.

I actually have an 8" Fiskars all steel scissors that cuts very cleanly through 8-9oz veg tan leather, but it doesn't do well in corners like the cresent knife so outside of trimming straps/ends/welts I don't use it.
 
Hunting set. The boning knife is a shameless design steal from MattR (Rochester knives) here on the forums. Also a drop point. Both are sub zero quenched AEB-L at 58rc. G-10 scales and liners. Thanks again Matt!

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